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07-18-2013, 07:12 AM   #1
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What did I do wrong?

Was on holidays in Oslo last year and visited Vigland Park...if you haven't been, it's very cool.

Tried to take some pictures in the amazing stone carvings, although white stone and a cloudy sky proved a challenge...

How should I have gone about capturing this?

Pic 1: 50mm 1/320 @ F4.0 ISO200
Pic 2 : 50mm 1/400 @ F2.5 ISO200

K30 - DA 50mm F1.8

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07-18-2013, 07:22 AM   #2
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erm... what I do out in the field is, refer to your histogram when reviewing shots.
seems to me like the camera's over-exposing there..
I've learned never to trust the LCD screen and learn how to judge exposure from the histogram instead.

07-18-2013, 07:22 AM   #3
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Seems like everything is overexposed...

The cloudy sky should of offered a nice, even, diffused light (now depends on how cloudy it was).
I would of went with a ISO 100 (don't know if K-30 has that)...

Sometimes in these situations, underexposing so you have a more toned sky and a speedlight with a diffuser to offer some fill-in light for your subject, would help a lot as well...

However... is hard to give a guess based on that... do you have a wide shot of the landscape to give us an idea on how the light was at that location?

Last edited by mrNewt; 07-18-2013 at 03:42 PM.
07-18-2013, 07:46 AM   #4
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Underexpose by about stops - check on LCD and histogram.

07-18-2013, 07:53 AM   #5
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Deliberately underexposing is a good choice with this type of scene. The camera's sensor deals with underexposure better than over. You can boost contrast in processing better that way, too.

Bracketing might be a good way to figure this out.
07-18-2013, 08:02 AM   #6
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I wouldnt change a thing, I think those photos look great.
In those situations what you need is a good lens hood, positioning yourself to avoid glare, and then using exposure compensation (+/-). But keep in mind that on overcast days you either get everything a little too bright or everything a little too dark. Its good if you can shoot raw and post process, or even underexpose the background and use fill flash for the subjects, to get a dramatic photo with dark background and properly lit subjects.
I would probably use Av or Tv mode, with low ISO, shutter speed around 1/(1.6*focal length) and aperture between f5.6-f8.0. I would switch to faster aperture if I wanted to use bokeh to isolate subjects.
But I think you actually did great, those photos arent terrible, they are just a little abstract and artistic.
07-18-2013, 08:07 AM   #7
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In addition to being overexposed, the images seem to have shallow Depth of Field. Given that the shutter speed was very high (and will be even higher if you underexpose) you should use narrower apertures in the range of F5.6 to F11 to maximize DOF and still maintain sharpness.

If you shoot in RAW, you can very easily fix such exposure errors in post processing. As long as the highlights are not completely clipped, you will be able to recover a lot of detail and give the images a more natural look.
07-18-2013, 08:17 AM   #8
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So this is what the area looked like. The weather was quite changeable and went from brilliant blue sky to heavy cloud cover quickly...

I was very new to my camera at the time so felt I was chasing myself to get it right. Hopefully I've learnt since then.

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07-18-2013, 08:18 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by demp10 Quote
In addition to being overexposed, the images seem to have shallow Depth of Field. Given that the shutter speed was very high (and will be even higher if you underexpose) you should use narrower apertures in the range of F5.6 to F11 to maximize DOF and still maintain sharpness.

If you shoot in RAW, you can very easily fix such exposure errors in post processing. As long as the highlights are not completely clipped, you will be able to recover a lot of detail and give the images a more natural look.
Big mistake I made with these was I was shooting in JPEG
07-18-2013, 08:19 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
I wouldnt change a thing, I think those photos look great.
In those situations what you need is a good lens hood, positioning yourself to avoid glare, and then using exposure compensation (+/-). But keep in mind that on overcast days you either get everything a little too bright or everything a little too dark. Its good if you can shoot raw and post process, or even underexpose the background and use fill flash for the subjects, to get a dramatic photo with dark background and properly lit subjects.
I would probably use Av or Tv mode, with low ISO, shutter speed around 1/(1.6*focal length) and aperture between f5.6-f8.0. I would switch to faster aperture if I wanted to use bokeh to isolate subjects.
But I think you actually did great, those photos arent terrible, they are just a little abstract and artistic.
Thanks...I hadn't thought of them like that
07-18-2013, 08:29 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by SyncGuy Quote
erm... what I do out in the field is, refer to your histogram when reviewing shots.
seems to me like the camera's over-exposing there..
I've learned never to trust the LCD screen and learn how to judge exposure from the histogram instead.

Excuse my ignorance, but what should I be looking for in the histogram??

An even distribution? (bell curve?)
07-18-2013, 08:57 AM   #12
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The first two shots make me wonder what metering mode the camera was in, or what happened after the camera's meter suggested something. The whole scene is too bright. I sometimes get the bright sky overexposed like that with matrix metering, but not everything else, unless I forgot to change settings from the previous night or something. Those shots look overexposed by two stops to me.

Since your subject is not moving, the shutter speed doesn't need to be that high. At 50mm, 1/100 sec. should be possible for everyone, and with some practice and SR, most people can get down to 1/30 before worrying. A longer shutter speed would allow you to change other settings if you needed to.

With a tripod or somewhere to place the camera, this looks like a good place to erase people by using a really long exposure. You'd also need a neutral density filter in that light. The filter would allow shutter speeds of 10 to 30 seconds, the tripod keeps the camera still, and the people will move around. It looks interesting in my head.
07-18-2013, 09:26 AM   #13
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Well, Although JPEG, as the camera metered for shadows on the statues, thereīs a lot of info to recover. I hope you donīt mind I edited them just to see what was there.
In LR, I Underexposed by 1.7 stops, bumped highlights whites and blacks to get high contrast and detail on the statues. Adjusted white balance and tint and then I realize the pictures were almost monochrome so I turned them Black and white.




Last edited by carrrlangas; 07-18-2013 at 09:38 AM.
07-18-2013, 10:02 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Esky Quote
Excuse my ignorance, but what should I be looking for in the histogram??

An even distribution? (bell curve?)
There are some examples in the manual. What you typically want is an even distribution. With digital, anything off the scale on the right side ends up solid white with no detail. On the left it's solid black with no detail. So the histogram is all your detail.

Some scenes won't give you an even distribution. A street at night will have parts that are black or nearly black like the sky, with car headlights or streetlights white or nearly white. That's OK because that's want you expect to see.

You can set your camera to show you areas that won't have any detail because they are completely white or black. Those spots will blink in the review screen.
07-19-2013, 05:50 PM   #15
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A lower aperture like F8 would have helped. As mentioned, also check the metering mode. I use Center Average because I find it more consistent than the Matrix.
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