Originally posted by Just1MoreDave 
The camera has to choose a white balance to create the JPEG file. It's harder to fix it later because of that. The RAW files don't have a fixed white balance and can be changed later. The camera does add its white balance numbers to the file, the color temperature and tint, which are also used to create the preview you see on the camera LCD. But these numbers can be changed to something else.
You might try shooting RAW+JPEG for a while, maybe following suggestions here about setting the white balance in the camera. Then if you get a photo that looks wrong to you, you can open the RAW copy of the file in Photoshop Elements. The program will open Adobe Camera RAW first, and at the top of all the sliders are adjustments for the color temperature. There's an eyedropper tool (top bar, third tool from the left) if your photo has a spot that should be mostly white, gray or mostly black. The eyedropper will choose that spot and adjust the color channels to remove all color tint from that spot. You can move these sliders around and see if it fixes your color problem.
Perfect white balance is not necessary for every photo. I was just reading about the K-3's ability to have two white balances for one image, to harmonize images with multiple light sources.
Exactly how I use my K-30 - RAW+ with AWB..... I can rapidly scan through the jpeg images using Win7's built-in previewer, and anything I like I right-click the .dng (RAW file version) and open-with Photoshop Elements Editor. The image first opens in ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) - which by the way is the same code used in both Lightroom and P.E.'s bigger brother.
The camera's AWB works fairly well, but the white balance tool in ACR is slick. Point it at anything and the red, green and blue color channels will be adjusted to be equal at that spot with a comparable adjustment across the the whole image. I love looking for a flag that includes a white field. Flags have ripples so the white is often in both sun and shade. If my primary subject is shaded, I point at the shaded part of the flag's white and my image is balanced for shade. If my primary subject has full daylight, I just point at the part of the flag's white that is in daylight. You can do the same for grays and blacks, but a true gray or true black is harder to find in an image. I will try ACR's Auto feature for tweaking the image's dynamic range. If I don't like it, one more click reverts the image to its previous settings. Either way, I can further tweak things as desired to get the look I like. So far, we are still talking about 30 seconds or less for most images.
I often find that after using Photoshop Element's ACR tool that I really don't need the other tools in P.E. and I just save my new image as a better jpeg than the camera's jpeg.
Oh, and contrary to common misconception, ACR will work with jpeg images too, but with a bit less flexibility.
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