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12-16-2013, 10:17 PM   #1
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Help Needed: Effective Chimping

So I recently found out what "chimping" is and it turns out I'm a chimper and have been one for quite some time.


Embarassment? I dunno!


But anyway, in this case it is what it is! And if I'm gonna be chimping, let's talk about effective chimping.


Because K-5 chimping for some reason isn't working out so accurately for me. It appears that many photos I take which don't look properly exposed on the LCD are often turning out to be looking just fine on the big screen.


And I am taking additional shots with various exposure adjustments that turn out to be looking not so great at all on the big screen. The additional shots are unnecessary. The first shot was okay after all! It's happened a number of times now.


Is my LCD possibly poorly adjusted or something? It should be on default setting. I've never gone into the menus and changed anything.


So that's one chimping thing that I'm reckoning with right now.


Or should I just resist the screaming urge to chimp? LOL

12-16-2013, 10:23 PM   #2
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I don't think you should rely on the LCD screen to judge exposure. There are adjustments for brightness of the screen in the menu and the amount of light or glare on the screen will also effect things.

I turn on the clipping masks, also called "blinkies" and adjust the exposure using EV comp so that I have just one or two blinkies showing in areas that are supposed to be pure white, like a bright white cloud. If there is nothing pure white in the image then you cannot do that of course. Works OK for me, YMMV.
12-16-2013, 10:37 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by davids8560 Quote
Or should I just resist the screaming urge to chimp?
Chimping is a natural behavior found in homo sapiens.
No need to fight it.
Just keep your expectations in line with the capabilities of the tool. Realize that even if you shoot Raw, you are viewing the embedded jpg thumbnail, so what-you-see-is-not-what-you-get. The best use is for confirmation of framing. Then, as jatrax said, some clues about clipping; you can see too-dark area warnings too. The histogram can help, but I think its relationship to an artful shot is sometimes questionable. Then a semi-OK idea of sharpness, if you zoom it a few steps up.
That's about as ambitious as I get with the chimping thing. Consider focus peaking and LiveView for getting some higher value from the LCD.

M
12-16-2013, 10:45 PM   #4
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I'll use the histogram mostly. For my usage it seems reasonably effective, but not perfect. It depends on the scene what I consider acceptible or not.

12-16-2013, 10:45 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Miguel Quote
...Consider focus peaking and LiveView for getting some higher value from the LCD.

M

Do I have this feature?
Thx
12-16-2013, 10:48 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by davids8560 Quote
Do I have this feature?
Thx
K-5 has LiveView; K-3 has both. Focus peaking rox--I only recently discovered it and now I'm addicted.

M
12-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by davids8560 Quote
Do I have this feature?
Thx
Liveview = yes, focus peaking = no. In the k-5 that is.

Liveview can be useful to zoom in and check the focus on something, I use it a lot when on a tripod and I have the time. Focus peaking is related to Liveview but shows you on the screen what is in focus. But it's not available on the k-5. I've used it a bit on the k-01.

I agree with Miguel, it's a useful tool but not something I trust 100%. Watch the blinkies for clipping either too bright or too dark, zoom in on a shot once in a while to check sharpness and that's about it. I try to check every once in awhile just in case I hit a button wrong (shot a whole shoot once with EV comp on +3 . I try not to do that again.
12-16-2013, 10:57 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by jatrax Quote
(shot a whole shoot once with EV comp on +3 . I try not to do that again.

And that's another thing! EV changes seem very aggressive with this camera. I may not know an awful lot but EV adjustments are something I picked up during my compact experiences, and it helped a lot. But this K-5 seems to really jump when you tick it up or down a few clicks. Seems quite aggressive!


Thx

12-16-2013, 11:20 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by davids8560 Quote
And that's another thing! EV changes seem very aggressive with this camera. I may not know an awful lot but EV adjustments are something I picked up during my compact experiences, and it helped a lot. But this K-5 seems to really jump when you tick it up or down a few clicks. Seems quite aggressive!


Thx
I think you can set the EV divisions that it changes by per click somewhere in the menus.
12-17-2013, 12:26 AM - 1 Like   #10
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Hi
Ah, the much maligned LCD is giving you grief. It's not WYSIWYG but WYSIWYNG. Why ? Because the poor thing can't cope with the ambient light. Ambient light changes hundreds of time during the day and a lot is influencing it such as time of day, reflections off objects (metamerism affect) and your eyes not being able to adjust quickly enough from bright to dark. (Or dark to bright as it were)

Bright daylight however is the main culprit. Everything just looks too dark on the screen and when you crank up the screen brightness you introduce another problem that will give you even worse results. I carry a "Compact Hoodman Loupe" in my pocket and use it from time to time when I feel I need to make a better informed judgement of a shot I have just taken. Also to look at the histogram will give you a better indication as far as exposure is concerned.

Greetings
12-17-2013, 01:38 AM   #11
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Hmmm... In my honest opinion: when chimping gets the job done quicker then doing it the old school way, then it becomes the better method. No shame there.

In situations where exposure becomes tricky, use exposure bracketing. It's chimping plus some spray and pray, but fully automated. And I still find nothing to be ashamed about there, especially when it's quicker.
12-17-2013, 02:51 AM   #12
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On my K30, I set my LCD brightness set 4 notches to the left (darker), and to my eyes it gives a better representation of the exposure of a captured scene than when it is at its default brightness setting. I shoot RAW + JPG, and with my Eye-Fi card I push just the JPG onto my phone to share it on Instagram/Facebook. They look just fine (minor tweaks in Snapseed).

On my Q, I have it at the darkest setting. It too has an Eye-Fi card, but the Q has a tendency to just blow out highlights, so I'm more careful with pictures coming from it.

I find the histogram helpful in letting me see whether a picture can be "rescued" in Lightroom.

So maybe try adjusting the brightness levels of the LCD and see if that will help your situation.
12-17-2013, 05:02 AM   #13
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I'm a chimper and I'm proud.

Actually I think you have to be absolutely nuts not to. Digital has given us this great tool so use it. My only suggestion would be to turn the histogram on, it's a much better way of judging your shots than just chimping. See Solve Overly Dark Photo Problems In Macro By Using A Histogram
12-17-2013, 05:16 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nass Quote
I'm a chimper and I'm proud.

Actually I think you have to be absolutely nuts not to. Digital has given us this great tool so use it. My only suggestion would be to turn the histogram on, it's a much better way of judging your shots than just chimping. See Solve Overly Dark Photo Problems In Macro By Using A Histogram
But... There's no histogram in the VF, only on the LCD screen.
12-17-2013, 05:16 AM   #15
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I primarily chimp for confirming focus, so I have my K-5 set to auto zoom to 8x so I can check it.
I've sort of figured out now I can trust the camera to handle exposure if I use center weighted metering.
if I think the scene will blow highlights I set for -ev compensation from experience.
I should use the histogram instead though.
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