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04-14-2014, 07:13 PM   #1
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Equipment and Settings Suggestions?

Hey Everyone, I am new to DSLR scene and bought a Pentax K-r a few years ago for an A-level photography course (which unfortunately I didn't pay much attention in ) The photography course also required a film camera, and I managed to pick up a cheap Pentax MX SLR with multiple lenses.
Here is a list of my current equipment:
Camera's:
Pentax K-r DSLR
Pentax MX Film SLR

Auto Lenses:
smc Pentax - DA L 1:3.5-5.6 18-55mm AL (kit lens that came with the K-r)
smc Pentax - DA L 1:4-5.6 50-200mm ED

Prime Lenses:
smc Pentax- M 1:2.8 28mm
smc Pentax- M 1:1.7 50mm (came with Pentax MX)
Hoya HMC Tele-Auto f=200mm 1:3.5 (Came with Pentax MX)
Vivitar MC Telephoto f=400mm 1:5.6 (came with Pentax MX)

I also Have a Set of Vivitar Automatic Extension Tubes AT-22 (12mm, 20mm, 36mm [68mm Total]) and a Vivitar Zoom thyristor 285 Flashgun (which also came with the Pentax MX).

I'm looking into trying macro photography, so was wondering if anyone could suggest a good set up for my equipment? (preferably with the K-r, not so keen on film) I've looked into it and unfortunately don't understand some the of the "technical lingo" about the subject of photography, so if anyone could fill me in that would be most appreciated I recently discovered a macro photography called Thomas Shahan, and I really like his work and its exactly the kind of images I want to achieve. He says he uses a 28mm prime reversed on a set of extension tubes with a flash and flash diffuser. I don't understand my vivitar flashgun as its all manual settings (it was just thrown in, I didn't really want it) so was looking at getting a Metz 44 AF-1 Flashgun, What do you guys think?

I am also going on a trip to Chicago for 3 weeks (I'm from England) and would love to get some great pictures of the trip, so any idea's what lenses etc (also camera settings) would be ideal? I know there's a lot to take in here, but as a newbie any advice, suggestions and tips would be greatly appreciated!

One last thing, are any of the lenses/equipment I have worth getting rid of to make room for something better? what lenses should I look into/ which lenses should I use for what types of photography etc? Thanks again

04-14-2014, 08:10 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum! Looking forward to seeing your images. I think you have some good lenses to start off with. I would certainly hold on to the two M series lenses as they are well regarded. The two 'kit' lenses, while not perfect, are good for traveling. The two telephoto lenses I'm not familiar with. As far as new or new to you lenses go, I would buy the best you can afford because good glass lasts forever and digital camera bodies come and go. You'll find some good macro photographers here too. Check out eaglem's macro work. If you get serious about macro you'll want to get a 'real' macro lens like a Pentax 100mm in any version, or one from Sigma or Tamron, just to name a few. Check out the Marketplace as they show up every now then. Read the forums for technical help on all aspects of photography. There are plenty of friendly folks here to help you.
04-14-2014, 08:33 PM   #3
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For a walkaround lens, I would recommend the Sigma 17-70mm "C":

Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4 Contemporary - Introduction - Pentax Camera Forums

As for macros, I don't know how advanced you want to get. A good lens for typical macro photos is the Tamron 90mm:

Tamron 90mm Macro vs Pentax 100mm WR: Review - Introduction - Pentax Camera Forums

It has an aperture ring so it's also suitable for use with close-up accessories.

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04-14-2014, 09:35 PM   #4
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The Pentax 50mm f1.7 w/ extension tubes is all you need for a macro lens--it is an excellent lens for this application. If you want more reach for macro--get a 2x teleconveter (TC)--the vivitar macro TC is fine, and is easier to use than a regular TC and extension tubes. It can be gotten in PK or PKA (used) from KEH, B&H, etc. I suggest you check out KEH, they come up regularly.

---------- Post added 04-14-14 at 09:40 PM ----------

As an example there is a vivitar macro 2x TC for PKA at KEH for $60. now. It is Ex+ and if you wait for a BGN one it will likely be just as good and much less expensive. Especially if you are comfortable w/o the A setting

04-14-2014, 10:40 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by dms Quote
The Pentax 50mm f1.7 w/ extension tubes is all you need for a macro lens--it is an excellent lens for this application. If you want more reach for macro--get a 2x teleconveter (TC)--the vivitar macro TC is fine, and is easier to use than a regular TC and extension tubes.
[
The 50/1.7 w/extension tubes is indeed a great setup for macro. You can add a reversing ring to mount the lens backwards for even greater magnification.

One thing I didn't see mentioned in your equipment list is a good, sturdy tripod. Absolutely necessary for most macro work. Almost as necessary is a way to model the light - a couple of simple diffusers - heck, even a couple sheets of paper to bounce the light around just the way you want it.
04-14-2014, 10:43 PM   #6
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I am rather conflicted about what to suggest, its like when my geek side gets asked by someone what laptop they should buy and every answer i want to give is over $1000 because that's what a laptop with all the features I would want would cost. The person usually could make do with a netbook however.

If you are 100% sure you will never get into film stuff your MX is a desirable body that is easy to sell in working condition and you could unload all that extra stuff with it.

I absolutely can't make do with less than the K5 or newer body for digital photography at this point for example, I must have both front and rear dials and a dedicated ISO button or I spaz out trying to shoot full manual and the high ISO and improved dynamic range of that sensor are critical to me.

If you don't mind working around the hassle of terrible body controls and lack of automatic aperture controls and metering on the M lenses, the stuff you have now is just fine in the ways others mentioned above for what you want to start doing.

The first thing you need to do is go to youtube and search for photography 101, no specific video but that brings up a laundry list of basic photo class videos. You absolutely have to understand ISO, shutter speed and most importantly aperture and depth of field to do any macro photography because you so little margin in all of them to work with in macro.

Until you get the basics out of the way anything we suggest will just be us telling you what to buy without you understanding why or how to use it.
Your budget is also the main deciding factor in what I would suggest, how much do you have to spend not including what you could get for any gear you sell?

Last edited by PPPPPP42; 04-15-2014 at 09:50 AM.
04-15-2014, 08:23 AM   #7
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You have enough macro stuff to try out some options. I would do that before buying more, except maybe focusing rails and a reversing ring for the 28mm lens. (That will be a K mount on one side and 49mm filter threads on the other, and should work for the M50/1.7 lens too.) You already have equipment to get magnification ratios from about 1:3 to 3:1, one-third lifesize to three times lifesize. The sensor is about 16mm x 24mm, so at lifesize 1:1 magnification, a subject like a typical medium coin fills the frame, an SD card is too big to fit in the frame. If you have an idea of the subject size you want, you can figure out the magnification ratio and the combination you'd need for it. The DA 18-55 lens does 1:3 magnification. You can use the Pentax-M 50mm f1.7 with various extension tubes for 1:2 through about 1.5:1, and the 28mm reversed for really high magnifications. I was up late taking eclipse photos so I'm not exact on numbers here. The exact numbers are not that important. You can simply try out combinations and focus on a ruler to see what size you get.

The DA 18-55 lens works right away of course. M series lenses need to be used in M mode with stop-down metering, explained in the sticky in this section. Look at your extension tubes to see whether the K-mount ends are shiny silver or black anodized. The camera will not like black anodized ones; you'll need to sand or scrape away some of that black. Ask if this looks like an issue.
04-15-2014, 05:05 PM   #8
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Thanks for the quick reply guys

dms and OregonJim: As you both said; the 50mm f1.7 w/ extension tubes as a macro set-up is ideal, and was what i was thinking of doing originally. I have tried it (and the 28mm f.2.8 lens too) but obviously there was a lack of light without a flash (as i said, i feel unable to use my vivitar flashgun) and required a slow shutter speed (I'm not sure but think that's where the shutter stays open for longer, allowing more light?) so would it be worth getting the Metz AF-1 flashgun and applying a flash diffuser to it to make up for the light-loss of the extension tubes? would that be supply enough light to have a quick shutter speed and good quality image? I'm also looking into the 49mm reversing ring to try both lenses reversed on the extension tubes for even greater magnification.

PPPPPP42: I am currently looking at photography video's on youtube to learn more about the subjects you mention, but could you define "metering" for me? like I said I'm not very knowledgeable about photography terminology and as for budget, I'd say the most I'd spend on 1 item would probably be 160 depending what the item is etc and how often I would use it, I wouldn't spend hundred and hundreds on a subject that I might not actually get into, although I'm hoping I do get into photography

Just1MoreDave: As you suggested I am currently looking for a 49mm reversing ring for my 28mm f2.8 and my 50mm f1.7 to reverse mount on my extension tubes, but as I said above I feel I shall need a flashgun to increase the amount of light for a good quality image? Also my my extension tubes k-mount ends are black, I'm assuming anodized; what affect/problem does this have on my camera?

I was wondering, as I have the smc Pentax - DA L 1:4-5.6 50-200mm ED lens is there much point in keeping the Hoya HMC Tele-Auto f=200mm 1:3.5 lens?
What does the term "Telephoto" lenses actually mean? what are they for?
and should I sell my Vivitar MC Telephoto f=400mm 1:5.6 lens as I feel I may never use it?
Does anyone have any thoughts or opinions on the Metz 44 AF-1 Flashgun for general purpose photography, such as macro, portrait, landscape etc?
Which lenses should i be taking to Chicago with me?

Thanks again for all the help guys, its much appreciated!

04-15-2014, 07:58 PM   #9
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Don't know a thing about the Metz, I use a Vivitar that I think may be the same 285 you have, I love it. Having the adjustable power levels is worth its weight in gold especially with macro shots. ISo 100 or 200, f11 to f16 and the flash at 1/4 power works great for most of my tiny flower and insect shots. I'd keep that flash and tinker with it some, if it's the same one I have it's excellent.

Telephoto - Fixed focal length lens, usually those from 135mm or so up to 600mm. Usually called primes, these are the only ones I use, I haven't touched my zoom lenses on around 3 years now I think. Keep the 400mm, if you ever decide to shoot birds or wildlife you'll love it. I'd love to have a 400, I shoot more birds than anything else, right now with a Vivitar 200mm telephoto. THe difference, telephoto is one focal length, zoom covers a wide range of focal lengths. Telephoto "primes" usually get better image quality. Your 28 and 50mm lenses are also primes. The 50mm f1.7 is one of my favorites, I've used it quite a lot for macro work. Telephoto lenses are mostly used for long range shots to get a little magnification, a 135mm telephoto of a bird taken at the same distance as the same bird with a 50mm will be larger than the bird in the 50mm shot. 200mm at the same distance will result in an even larger final image of the bird while the whole picture remains the same physical size. Not easy for me to describe without visual references, most books on photography show reference pictures.

tele - think telescope. photo - picture. Basically a telescope to take pictures with.

50-200mm vs 200mm - I would keep the 200mm prime and probably very rarely pick up the 50 - 200mm zoom. Primes usually get better image quality.

Macro - I use a couple of different rigs. I have 50mm and 135mm in K mount, and extension tubes for a total of 75mm. I made a couple by removing the glass from teleconvertors. Works great. I also have a Lentar 135mm M42 lens and around 200mm of extension tubes, which will get me out to just plain crazy macro land, I usually use around 60-70mm with the M42 rig. I also use the flash most of the time, but rarely a tripod, Insects don't wait around for me to set it up.

With the 50mm lens and extension tubes I can get some great shots, but working distance is only 3 inches at most, too close for most insects. I also have to use a white card to reflect the flash downward, it shoots over and past the subject. The 135mm and 75MM of extension tubes has a working distance of a little over a foot, much better for insects. Flash also works without the reflector usually.

Depth of field is very thin with macro shots. The closer you get the less depth of field you have. You can see this on the depth of field scale of the older manual lenses. A shot taken at 3 feet will have very little depth of field, while a shot taken at 100 feet will have a very wide depth of field. This means when shooting inches away, you're dealing with 1/4 inch of depth of field at most. Check my post on Camera Enthusiast forums for some good info on depth of field

Depth of Field for Dummies | Camera & Photography Forum - Camera-Enthusiast.com

With macro you'll want all the depth you can get so I usually shoot at f11 or f16. That still gets pretty thin depth so focus has to be exactly where I want it, macro is not very forgiving.

But here's what you can get once you get the hang of it...taken with 50mm K50 lens and 30mm extension tube with flash. Most likely f11, ISO 100. Hand held.



That flower is slightly bigger than a pencil eraser. I have shots on Flickr of flowers the size of match heads taken with the same rig. Link in my signature. That's what can be done with a good rig and a little experience.

If you want a dedicated macro lens, a lot of people prefer something in the 90-100 mm range. I would use what you have now and see if you really like doing macro work, then think about getting a macro lens. Find a 70 to 135mm lens and use your current extension tubes too, something in the 100 to 135mm range will give you good results and more working distance. I like the 135mm I use pretty well, the 50mm gives me slightly sharper pictures but the working distance lets me get more insect shots with the 135.

Oh yeah, you asked about metering if I remember correctly. That's what your camera does to set the exposure. It uses a built in light meter, (metering) so the term metering has become semi exchangeable with exposure.
04-15-2014, 09:08 PM - 1 Like   #10
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By metering I mean the camera being able to figure out how over or under exposed you are and either change the settings on the camera, or give you a meter bar in the viewfinder in M mode to tell you how over or under exposed the image will be at your current settings.
M series lenses don't tell the camera what the aperture is so in-camera metering doesn't work normally. Amusingly enough your old MX has the part inside it that let it feel what the lens was set to but that was removed from the DSLR's not long after they first came out.
Not the end of the world though, look up green button metering in the sticky post at the top of this forum on how to use those lenses. It basically just adds an extra step to shooting in M mode and makes it impossible to use any automatic modes.
Keep in mind that this is the same procedure you would use for shooting with a lens reversed since you put all the controls on the wrong end of the lens when you do that so the camera will have no idea what is going on with the lens.

This time around in answering I keep having trouble with digressing into side topics.
Telephoto is an optical term for a lens over a certain focal length compared to some other measurement, but I forget what exactly, you can basically just interpret it as higher mm lens.
For Chicago take the two DA lenses, at your experience level they will be the easiest to use and minimize constant lens changing.

I know almost nothing about your 200mm and 400mm lenses not even whether they are A or M lenses.
The advantage to the 200mm over your 50-200 would be the maximum aperture (your zoom is only 5.6 at 200mm), I couldn't say what the quality difference is between the two.
Your 400mm might be worth hanging on to as lenses that long aren't terribly common and usually are rather expensive, but I don't know its quality either.

160 pound budget for a single item actually opens up a ton of options but the question of what you want to do first is probably not something you can answer for certain right now. If you decided you prefer to stick to modern auto focus lenses that narrows things down considerably for example.
If you really get into photography and don't ever want to do film you will eventually replace everything you have with better stuff.

Personally if macro is the first area you really want to explore with no interest in film I would sell everything but the K-r and the 2 DA lenses and buy a used FA100 F2.8 macro. The price on the regular one used is much lower now since the DFA and WR versions came out. The quick shift focus on the newer ones IS a nice feature for macro however if you really want to spend money. Otherwise you have to turn AF off to manually override the auto focus if you can't get it to find the focus point you want on its own. Usually creative use of the center focus point works fine for that.
I would also get a short and a standard height adjustable tripod and the Pentax single button IR remote (pretty sure it works with the K-r) so that you can take a picture without touching the camera once everything is set. The 2 second timer your camera has (I think) would work also, but sometimes its nice to not have the delay if the subject is moving.
You can do macro handheld, especially with the shake reduction, but for really sharp images its nice not to have to touch anything. At least a monopod is good to have though for stability even handheld.
For macro photography flash use is complicated, you probably saw that in videos if you looked it up. Off camera flash, diffusers, light boxes or even flash rings on the lens are common.
If you search the lighting subforum for the metz flash you want you will likely find old threads with people debating its pros and cons.

I've lost my chain of thought so I will just hit post now.

Last edited by PPPPPP42; 04-15-2014 at 09:13 PM.
04-16-2014, 06:24 AM   #11
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What sort of subjects are you interested in, macro-wise? For anything non-moving, a sturdy tripod will do the trick. For anything moving or if you have hopes of hand holding, a flash (or flashes) is the way to go unless you want to be confined to direct sunlight or extremely shallow DoF. The metz you mention is probably fine, any modern hot-shoe flash with modern controls will probably do the trick.

You're right to be wary of your vivitar, the old Vivitar 285 from the film days might not have a safe trigger voltage for modern cameras. I'd check the voltage before connecting it to anything. The new digital-safe vivitars have an "HV' designation, 285HV.
04-16-2014, 10:58 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by zeanonjenkins Quote
Just1MoreDave: As you suggested I am currently looking for a 49mm reversing ring for my 28mm f2.8 and my 50mm f1.7 to reverse mount on my extension tubes, but as I said above I feel I shall need a flashgun to increase the amount of light for a good quality image? Also my my extension tubes k-mount ends are black, I'm assuming anodized; what affect/problem does this have on my camera?
Both your 28mm lens and 50mm lens have 49mm filter threads. I don't know what's available for reversing rings these days. I got an old one with an eBay lot with a 55mm thread, so I just use stepdown rings until I get to 49mm.

Newer Pentax cameras want the K-mount to be electrically conductive, otherwise the camera body won't push the aperture lever to stop down the lens in M mode. The black anodized mounts won't be conductive. You just have to sand or scrape off the coating to expose the metal underneath. I used 320 grit sandpaper because it was the first thing I saw in the garage. It was slow, 150 would be better, 60 probably too aggressive. I did it while I was on a treadmill. A boring meeting or a line at the DMV would be good too. The contact area is the same area where your DA 18-55 has a row of contacts, just clockwise of the groove where the locking pin goes. Here are mine:

04-17-2014, 06:10 PM   #13
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Paleo Pete: I have played around with my vivitar flashgun, and feel as though its charging time, size and settings complexity is just too overwhelming for me (as a beginner) but it might be something I pick up later on when I get used to manual settings etc. Thank you for the explanation of the meaning "Telephoto lens" I did a comparison between my Hoya 200mm Prime and my 50-200mm zoom lens and I'm not quite sure which lens gave better results, they both seemed about equal (at 100 iso and the same shutter speed), yet I wasn't sure if I preferred slightly brighter or darker pictures, so that maybe something I play around with to see which I prefer. Since you mentioned using a 135mm on extension tubes I wondered what the effect would be using my 200mm prime on 68mm of extension tubes, I've tried it and my focusing distance became around 18 - 24 inches at f11 and f16, and had to set my iso to 2500 with my camera's flash on to show a fair amount of detail (bearing in mind its night time here and I'm playing around in a dimly lit room, and the subject I've been photographing has been a large water bottle, so there's no much detail for it to show) hopefully the weather will be nice tomorrow for me to give it a try in live conditions.

PPPPPP42: Thanks for explaining metering for me after you posted that I noticed the exposure bar changing when I manually adjusted the shutter speed. I looked up the green button metering as you suggested and now understand it and can use it although I'm confused as to how it makes using automatic modes impossible? I will be taking the two DA lenses to Chicago with me but my backpack (the Lowepro dslr video fastpack 350 aw) has a lot more room for other lenses and such in the camera compartment, so was thinking of taking my macro gear with me too for when my girlfriend is working (she lives just outside of Chicago so there will hopefully be some wildlife to get some pictures of) as for my telephoto lenses, what do you mean by A or M lenses? as I said to Paleo Pete i compared shots from my 200mm prime and my 50 - 200mm zoom lens and the quality seemed about the same; although I cant say much about the quality of the 400mm lens as I haven't tested it to that extent. At the moment I'd rather try the cheaper macro options before choosing to sell up and purchase a macro lens (after looking for a 1:1 macro lens the prices seem quite high) I do also have a standard tripod but never really find time to set it up before a subject moves, or find times to actually use it, although as its night time now I may test it with my 400mm lens to try and get a shot of the moon; but I'd preferably like to do macro photography handheld. I have looked into the threads about the Metz flash I'm thinking of purchasing and there doesn't seem to be many con's compared to pro's, so I think I'll get it and try it out

BrianR: As I said to PPPPPP42 I'd much rather do photography handheld, so will probably end up purchasing the Metz flash with a diffuser. As for my Vivitar 285 flashgun, I wasn't wary due to the voltage (I never really thought of that if I'm honest) it was mainly the amount of manual controls I'd have to change before I could take a picture, and the extremely slow charging time.

Just1MoreDave: I've looked at reversing rings and found a 49mm for 3 on ebay, so definitely purchase that As for the anodized extension tubes, will this matter if I'm reversing my lens? and using my extension tubes currently (to learn the manual settings when it comes to close up photography) and they don't seem to cause any problems?

Thanks again everyone!
04-17-2014, 09:08 PM   #14
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I mean (M)anual or (A)utomatic aperture metering. If the lens has the A setting next to the smallest F stop its an "A" series lens and would work normally on your camera without green button metering because the camera can completely control its aperture and the meter reads normally when set to A. Works just like a manual focus DA lens basically though without the autofocus you have to tell the camera what focal length the lens is when you first turn it on. That probably already happens with your M series lenses. You can also tell an A series lens or extension tube by the row of electrical contacts on the mounting surface that match the ones on your camera.

Lenses without the A setting are the ones usually called M series though for Pentax that would include the K series lenses also as they are functionally identical to the M, just an earlier production series.

And just because we are covering lens types, M42 lenses are 42mm screw mount thread, you could use them with an adapter on yours but a K mount camera can't stop the lens down by itself, so you have to focus with the lens wide open since its usually too dark to focus stopped down, then turn the aperture dial to stop it down to the aperture you want, and then hit the green button to meter it, take the picture and then open it back up to focus for the next picture. WAY more steps than I can deal with just for one picture.
The difference with the standard K mount manual lenses is that the K mount lenses automatically open back up on their own when you release the green button, the M42 lenses won't unless you use them on an old M42 camera body since they mechanically work different for aperture controls (push pin vs sliding lever).

Automatic modes aren't possible with your M series lenses because it only meters correctly when the green button is pressed and then snaps back open, they didn't add a feature to keep it stopped down so you could use automatic metering modes like Av. The green button just tells the camera to stop the lens down and take a reading on the light it sees it doesn't directly tell it what the aperture is set to.
I am told that M42 lenses can be used in aperture priority mode since they can be manually stopped down and stay that way, they have a switch on the lens that prevents them from springing back open like the K mount lenses.
Probably more rambling info than was necessary, I'm sure half of it was mentioned in the green button sticky thread anyways.

Back on the other topic I would still consider something like this for macro:
Hakuba Mono Pod 10 (Champagne Gold) H-MS10SG B&H Photo Video (comes in other colors too)
It folds to a straight pole 9.8 inches long and so can be strapped to the side of your bag (bag has side loop for that I assume) and can be used much quicker than setting up a full tripod but offers much more stability than just hand holding. It also folds into a tabletop height tripod for more delicate macro work where you have time for a tripod but your big tripod would be too tall. This would be handy in Chicago for regular pictures even since if you wanted a picture indoors or in the subway or something you likely wouldn't have room for a full tripod and would have people that don't want to be flashed, and probably wouldn't have enough light for fast shutter speeds so it would be welcome support for stability. Look up ahead of time which museums allow photography and in what areas and whether flash or tripods are allowed and whether or not they consider a monopod any different from a tripod. You might be able to sneak the monopod by anyways.

Last edited by PPPPPP42; 04-17-2014 at 09:23 PM.
04-17-2014, 11:10 PM   #15
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I tried extension tubes with my 200mm and didn't like the results much. Longer focal lengths seem to be more difficult to get good clarity, so I go with the 135 a lot for insects for the sharper pictures and longer working distance. When possible I use the 50mm and it gets sharper pictures, but working distance makes insect shots rare although I have done it once or twice...but not often.

Shooting with M42 lenses I find I can usually focus pretty well at f8, any smaller and it starts to get too dark. In low light conditions I might have to open up to f4 but most of the time f8 works pretty well. Most of the time I'm also shooting at f8, so it's no problem but for shooting macro it's tricky, since I Have to open up a lot more, focus, then stop down and try to remain in the same exact spot so I don't lose focus. That's why I'm glad I finally have some K mount options for macro...

For stability when shooting macro I almost always shoot hand held, so Itry to rest me left hand on the ground and use it to steady the camera, that works well when shooting things like the small flower posted above since it's only a few inches off the ground. For other situations I'll rest my elbow on my knee or use a fence post, anything that will help me hold the camera steady. Fortunatley I seem to still be stady enough to shoot decent hand held macro, and keeping the shutter speed up helps in good sunlight.

For traveling I just take different lenses and deal with it, but a zoom might be useful since it minimizes the lens changes. I don't mind it myself, I just try to find a place out of the wind or go back to the vehicle to swap. That avoids a lot of dust on the sensor. I try to never change outside, especially on a windy day. I always take my 28mm and at least one 50mm though, no matter what else I bring along. I never know when I'll want that really sharp flower shot or a sunset...
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