[Rusky40]

What's the best focus setting for my km for both sport and landscape shots

[Just1MoreDave]

The camera thinks for sport, you should use AF.C. That's what the Moving Object mode uses. That setting will keep refocusing as long as you have the shutter button half-pressed. The camera will take a shot any time you fully press the button. That's OK for unpredictable action, but you are reliant on the camera to get it right and you have to press the button at the right time. Or team it with continuous drive mode and take a lot of shots. If your sport is more predictable, like the finish line of a race, you might focus in advance on the finish line, then switch to MF on the front of the camera, manual focus. The camera will still shoot whenever you fully press the shutter button, it won't change the focus from where you set it, and hopefully that's where the action is. The camera has another mode, AF.S, which will not fire the shutter until the autofocus locks on something. No matter how hard you press the button or swear. This is sometimes really annoying for fast action, firing after the action is over. You have fewer unfocused shots on the memory card. It's OK in bright light with a slower sport.

I don't get why, but the K-m has a mode that automatically chooses between AF.C and AF.S. That doesn't sound like a great idea.

The K-m only has 5 focus points, and apparently you only have a choice between the center one or all of them. I like the center one, because it's predictable. Either the camera is focusing in the center or AF isn't messing me up. The center point is often the most responsive one. I don't have any experience with 5 points, maybe the camera is OK with 5. Try one and see if it works.

For landscape, I prefer manual focus. You've got time and manual focus puts the focus where you want it. My second choice is AF.S and the center point. I may let the camera focus on the center point, then switch to MF and recompose a little. You can get small errors by recomposing a lot, but most landscape shots are at apertures with lots of depth of field.

[Rusky40]

The camera thinks for sport, you should use AF.C. That's what the Moving Object mode uses. That setting will keep refocusing as long as you have the shutter button half-pressed. The camera will take a shot any time you fully press the button. That's OK for unpredictable action, but you are reliant on the camera to get it right and you have to press the button at the right time. Or team it with continuous drive mode and take a lot of shots. If your sport is more predictable, like the finish line of a race, you might focus in advance on the finish line, then switch to MF on the front of the camera, manual focus. The camera will still shoot whenever you fully press the shutter button, it won't change the focus from where you set it, and hopefully that's where the action is. The camera has another mode, AF.S, which will not fire the shutter until the autofocus locks on something. No matter how hard you press the button or swear. This is sometimes really annoying for fast action, firing after the action is over. You have fewer unfocused shots on the memory card. It's OK in bright light with a slower sport.

I don't get why, but the K-m has a mode that automatically chooses between AF.C and AF.S. That doesn't sound like a great idea.

The K-m only has 5 focus points, and apparently you only have a choice between the center one or all of them. I like the center one, because it's predictable. Either the camera is focusing in the center or AF isn't messing me up. The center point is often the most responsive one. I don't have any experience with 5 points, maybe the camera is OK with 5. Try one and see if it works.

For landscape, I prefer manual focus. You've got time and manual focus puts the focus where you want it. My second choice is AF.S and the center point. I may let the camera focus on the center point, then switch to MF and recompose a little. You can get small errors by recomposing a lot, but most landscape shots are at apertures with lots of depth of field.

thanks dave that was very helpful then there is the AE metering and AF point