[schnitzer79]

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From the setting shown in the photograph in link:

Set the ISO with the vertical slider (400 ISO as shown)

Mode/Power switch is marked M/TTL and A (two power settings Red and Green).

To use the auto sensor on the front of the flash set it either to Red or Green.

The numbers in the colored boxes are the usable flash distances
Red = 5-33 ft 1.5 - 10 m
Green = 2.5-16 ft 0.7-5 m (selected)

The F-stop numbers to the right of the colored bars are the setting you use
Red = f/5.6
Green = f/11 (selected)

The distances in the gray boxes at the left are for manual mode. Since TTL is not supported on any of the Pentax K series DSLRs
the flash will operate in Manual mode if the switch is set to M/TTL (fires at full power). To use manual mode get the flash to subject distance and look on the chart and use the F-stop to the right. Example (from setting in photo): ISO 400, Flash to subject distance 11 ft (3.5m) use f/16. If the distance is between use the lower F-stop. So if the distance is 20 ft use f/8. Another way to get the F-stop is to divide the Guide Number (GN) by the distance (mind if the GN is in meters or feet). So from the GN chart on the flash (normal) ISO 400 = GN 164 (feet). So at 10 feet 164 / 10 = f/16.4. Checking against the grey chart 11 feet = f/16.

Keep in mind that the sensor is on the flash so the usefulness for macro photography is limited as very little of the light reflected off the subject will reach the sensor. Since the flash doesn't have any manual power settings (1/2, 1/4, 1/8 etc.) you'll have to take test shots until you get a feel of what F-stop to use based on the background, subject and ambient lighting. It becomes intuitive in a very short time.

I would recommend some sort of diffusion such as a soft box attachment (DIY or store bought).

These threads should give you some ideas on lighting or alternative flashes
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/228550-my-techn...o-insects.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/242666-my-uni...cro-flash.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/178382-sunpak...ringflash.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/146183-diy-ttl-macro-flash.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/76001-diy-pttl-macro-flash.html

thanks for taking the time to explain things.very much appreciated!!

[Class A]

a radio trigger would be great but its a bit risky to order one just in case it wont work with the Nissin.

If you can make the flash fire by shorting the centre pin contact with the side metal part, the flash will work on a radio trigger.

There are only a few flash models that require digital communication with a camera to enable firing. It is highly unlikely that this model will not work on any standard radio trigger.

[schnitzer79]

From the setting shown in the photograph in link:

Set the ISO with the vertical slider (400 ISO as shown)

Mode/Power switch is marked M/TTL and A (two power settings Red and Green).

To use the auto sensor on the front of the flash set it either to Red or Green.

The numbers in the colored boxes are the usable flash distances
Red = 5-33 ft 1.5 - 10 m
Green = 2.5-16 ft 0.7-5 m (selected)

The F-stop numbers to the right of the colored bars are the setting you use
Red = f/5.6
Green = f/11 (selected)

The distances in the gray boxes at the left are for manual mode. Since TTL is not supported on any of the Pentax K series DSLRs
the flash will operate in Manual mode if the switch is set to M/TTL (fires at full power). To use manual mode get the flash to subject distance and look on the chart and use the F-stop to the right. Example (from setting in photo): ISO 400, Flash to subject distance 11 ft (3.5m) use f/16. If the distance is between use the lower F-stop. So if the distance is 20 ft use f/8. Another way to get the F-stop is to divide the Guide Number (GN) by the distance (mind if the GN is in meters or feet). So from the GN chart on the flash (normal) ISO 400 = GN 164 (feet). So at 10 feet 164 / 10 = f/16.4. Checking against the grey chart 11 feet = f/16.

Keep in mind that the sensor is on the flash so the usefulness for macro photography is limited as very little of the light reflected off the subject will reach the sensor. Since the flash doesn't have any manual power settings (1/2, 1/4, 1/8 etc.) you'll have to take test shots until you get a feel of what F-stop to use based on the background, subject and ambient lighting. It becomes intuitive in a very short time.

I would recommend some sort of diffusion such as a soft box attachment (DIY or store bought).

These threads should give you some ideas on lighting or alternative flashes
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/228550-my-techn...o-insects.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/242666-my-uni...cro-flash.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/178382-sunpak...ringflash.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/146183-diy-ttl-macro-flash.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/76001-diy-pttl-macro-flash.html

just got the time to read things properly and do some searching. i have a couple of questions though if u dont mind.


1)since i dont want to short the pins as above poster suggested, does this mean that the flash is imcompatible with radio triggers like this - 16 Channels Radio Speedlite Flash Trigger for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus PT-16GY | eBay

1)since i'll be using the flash for macro photography most of the time, then the aperture that i will be using in camera will usually be around f16. so basically i will have to try different settings on the flash (ISO and F-stop) as well as placing the flash at different distances in order to get proper exposure. considering all these parameters, and using the radio trigger as well (if its compatible), im assuming that I also need to use the camera in full Manual mode too (instead of AV) in order to try different shutter speeds until i get the correct exposure.right? or am i missing something here?

thanks in advance

[Class A]

since i dont want to short the pins as above poster suggested, does this mean that the flash is imcompatible with radio triggers like this - 16 Channels Radio Speedlite Flash Trigger for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus PT-16GY | eBay

Please note that I only suggested to short the pins very briefly for testing purposes.

Your camera does it every time, when it fires the flash. I thought since you measured the trigger voltage, you'd be fine doing this quick test.

Another way of testing compatibility with standard radio triggers is to put the flash on a camera of a different make. If it fires, it will work with radio triggers. This is really the same test as the shortening test since the camera of the other make does nothing else but short the pins.

BTW, the triggers you pointed to use a special 23A 12V mini battery for the transmitter. If I were you, I'd get triggers that use standard AAA (or AA) batteries. I'd also make sure they can handle up to 300V trigger voltage as this will allow you to use other flashes on them as well.

im assuming that I also need to use the camera in full Manual mode too (instead of AV) in order to try different shutter speeds until i get the correct exposure.right?

You cannot control the flash's contribution to the exposure by varying shutter speed. The latter only controls the ambient light's contribution.

Your only options of controlling the flash's contribution is by flash power, flash distance, and aperture & ISO, whereas the latter two also affect the ambient light's contribution.

[schnitzer79]

Please note that I only suggested to short the pins very briefly for testing purposes.

Your camera does it every time, when it fires the flash. I thought since you measured the trigger voltage, you'd be fine doing this quick test.

Another way of testing compatibility with standard radio triggers is to put the flash on a camera of a different make. If it fires, it will work with radio triggers. This is really the same test as the shortening test since the camera of the other make does nothing else but short the pins.

BTW, the triggers you pointed to use a special 23A 12V mini battery for the transmitter. If I were you, I'd get triggers that use standard AAA (or AA) batteries. I'd also make sure they can handle up to 300V trigger voltage as this will allow you to use other flashes on them as well.


You cannot control the flash's contribution to the exposure by varying shutter speed. The latter only controls the ambient light's contribution.

Your only options of controlling the flash's contribution is by flash power, flash distance, and aperture & ISO, whereas the latter two also affect the ambient light's contribution.

i didnt notice that those triggers used a 12V battery actually.thanks for pointing that out since I also prefer using the ones that have the standard batteries for the transmitter.i'll keep a note for the 300V handling too since that might come in handy.
as for the exposure bit, i am a little confused as I have never used an external flash before, let alone an older model with no P-TTL...i guess i'll just have to mount it on the camera first and experiment to get the hang of it and understand how it works fully.

[schnitzer79]

just tried mounting it on the k-50.doesnt work too bad actually. numbers on the back panel are quite accurate as well.for macro work however it will be a totally different matter. if it works with radio triggers it will be superb.
might end up getting the radio triggers and if they dont work with the nissin, then i'll probably just buy the yongnuo 560 ii (or iii) as its fairly cheap

[Not a Number]

No reason why radio triggers shouldn't work. With the standard "hot" flash shoe it is universal that the flash is triggered by shorting the center pin with the side contact. The other pins are for communicating between the camera and the flash. What the pins do varies by manufacturer. That's why you can use a Minolta flash from the 80s on a Pentax. You won't get dedication (flash sets the sync speed) or TTL but the flash will still trigger from the flash hot shoe.

[Class A]

No reason why radio triggers shouldn't work.

There aren't many of them, but some flash models actually require digital communication before they enable the standard single-pin firing. The Nissin Di-622 is such an example.

The OP's flash should work, though.