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04-28-2014, 05:39 PM   #1
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Uv filters and lens hoods

I have bought a hoya lens filter but want even more protection for my 18-55 wr kit lens... Where do I get a lens hood for this as I want to use the kit lens in situation where things will me the most prone to damage. Shooting at the beach and from the boat taking photos of the family goofing off and on the boat... My kids are 12 and 9

04-28-2014, 05:48 PM   #2
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There are a couple versions of the kit lens and some use a different hood than others. The WR version uses the PH-RBC 52 mm hood, I think. You can search for it on ebays to find a cheap knockoff, but shipping time might be long from China. Buying the genuine thing might be a bit expensive.

But I would recommend one of those collapsible rubber hoods, just make sure it has 52mm threads to fit your lens. But! If you will be shooting in high wind or during a fast boat ride, its probably better to avoid a hood, as it might catch wind.
04-28-2014, 06:19 PM   #3
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At the beach/strong reflected sunlight is when you need the hood. I strongly suggest getting one.
With good coating the veiling effect of strong light is less of a problem. but strong (direct) reflections of sunlight will appear somewhere else on the picture as a streak/spot of light, if the hood doesn't stop it. No matter how good the coating only a hood can deal with this. (The contra jour effect of light reflecting off the water is nice--and not what I am referring to.)
04-28-2014, 09:38 PM   #4
dms
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Strong Reflection: No Hood vs. w/ Hood

I happen to have a nice example--from my recent testing of Q 5-15mm zoom lens. The 3rd car (a van) on the left has a strong sunlight reflection--that appears in the sky on the upper right. With a hood the reflection caused flare spots are gone. The lens is very good as regards veiling loss of contrast and thus the SMC coating works well--but cannot handle the strong reflection (I doubt if any lens coating could). [BTW if you draw a straight line through the two flare spots you land on the reflecting van I spoke of.]

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Last edited by dms; 04-28-2014 at 09:58 PM.
04-29-2014, 05:21 AM - 1 Like   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by dms Quote
I happen to have a nice example--from my recent testing of Q 5-15mm zoom lens. The 3rd car (a van) on the left has a strong sunlight reflection--that appears in the sky on the upper right. With a hood the reflection caused flare spots are gone.
I don't understand how a lens hood can stop flare caused by something inside the frame? It shouldn't be blocking any light from that source. Are you sure it wasn't caused by the slightly different framing or something outside the frame (the sun looks like it's out to the top right)? One of those passing cars could also have been the culprit, but nothing down in the bottom left seems all that bright to me.
04-29-2014, 06:05 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by BrianR Quote
I don't understand how a lens hood can stop flare caused by something inside the frame? It shouldn't be blocking any light from that source. Are you sure it wasn't caused by the slightly different framing or something outside the frame (the sun looks like it's out to the top right)? One of those passing cars could also have been the culprit, but nothing down in the bottom left seems all that bright to me.
I believe you are right. The sun is just out of the frame in the upper right and glaring down across the filter or front element. In the second shot the added shade is blocking the direct sun beams from hitting the lens (hence the term "lens shade") and preventing the flare from happening.
04-29-2014, 03:04 PM   #7
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I thought initially it was the car reflection hitting the metal/plastic filter threads and then reflecting into the lens. But you may be correct--the sun was very strong and above to the right of my lens--which was why I tried the shot w/o hood and then w/ hood. Only later did I notice the flare spots.
05-01-2014, 04:19 AM   #8
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Most of the time the Cheap China ones work fine but tried two knock-off PH-RBC 52's, both when I got them were extremely loose. The one I kept fell off and rolled over a cliff. So I wound up getting a screw in floral one, problem solved.

05-03-2014, 07:44 AM   #9
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I prefer bayonet hoods, and consider lenses without bayonet mounts or some other non-thread mounting mechanism (like the 28/3.5 SMCT, with the rectangular hood that firmly clamped on) defective. It surprises me that Pentax has always produced, and continues to produce, many lenses without something other than filter-thread hood mounting.

However loose bayonet hoods can be a problem. Half my OEM Canon FD hoods got loose after about 15 years; the others held tight until I sold the lenses (for much less than they should have been worth, of course, because they were FDs.) Even my newish Sigma 10-20mm bayonet isn't as firm as it should be. My new 70-300 Tamron bayonet is firm so far, but you have that rotating front barrel to deal with in trying to wrangle it on and off - you just hate to hear the AF gears grind when you forget you're still in AF and try to remove or replace the hood. It's especially difficult because with the hood reversed, you really can't grab the focus ring to keep it from turning. Very irritating.
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