Bokeh is quite subjective. But it does have a certain character, and while it is difficult to say which bokeh is "good" you can quickly notice when its "bad." But it depends on many things! It depends on lens design, aperture, and distances (between photographer and focus, between focus and background, etc.) as well as the background itself. Ideally, bokeh would be part of your consideration when deciding which lens to use. But most of us don't have that many lenses and don't have their specific bokeh-types memorized. There are some rule of thumbs, but they might not always apply. Generally speaking, fast lenses and tele lenses will create "more bokeh" (as wrong as that phrase may sound), while wide angle or slow lenses tend to make more jagged, harsh bokeh. Of course, even jagged bokeh can work for some photos. I'd like to post two examples. The first one is the DA 40mm XS with its rounded aperture blades:
Blur flowers (big version and exif here)
The transition between in-focus and out of focus isn't jarring, and while the background flowers are out of focus, you can still tell their shapes. To me, this is quite pleasing. The OoF area doesn't take attention away from the subject, but it compliments it.
Then here is the 14mm Samyang. It is such a wide angle, people don't usually associate it with bokeh, since wide angle lenses tend to have a huge DoF and aren't really used for bokeh photos. Its bokeh is quite dramatic, so it might not work for most photos. But I think in this case, it works because it enhances the contrast between the snowy, winter background and the little golden leaf hanging on. But its not exactly "beautiful" (even though its pretty good for a UWA). And I expect some viewers to disagree and most viewers (non-photographers) to not even consciously notice this.
UWA leaf (big version and exif here)
So yes, when a review is trying to quantify bokeh, the best it can do is to describe its character and compare it to other lenses of similar focal length