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08-23-2014, 08:03 PM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by royden Quote
a Tak Bayonet 135/2.5..
I have this lens and won't be getting rid of it. I think it's a great bang for buck lens with great iq. mine doesn't get as much use these days because I have expensive af primes that hog the air time but I still use it sometimes with film and digi and would definitely use it more if we ever got a ff digital body.

08-23-2014, 08:05 PM   #47
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#2 is not required for Green button to work. Just habit on my part.
08-23-2014, 08:29 PM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by royden Quote
Thanks ripper. Are you sure about #2? I would think not as M/K/M42 don't have anything for af screw drive to engage.I may be wrong, I'll try tomorrow. I did not know about #3. I hardly ever use auto ISO.
You do not need to set the focus mode to M. In fact, if you want to use Catch-in-Focus, you must leave it set to AF or AF-S.

If you are shooting a M42 lens you focus the lens, then set the aperture. The viewfinder will darken when you stop down. K-mount lenses will stop down when you hit the green button, so you can set the aperture and leave it.
08-23-2014, 09:13 PM   #49
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Boriscleto -- you are truly on a roll today. You just jogged my memory as to why I set the focus to M. I have CIF enabled and typically don't use it with manual lenses unless I really need and therefore always have it set to M when shooting M or manual focus A lenses. I do want to have to fuss with the setup menus to enable and disable, so flipping from M to AFS works perfectly to enable as needed and flip back to M to disable when done. I'm sure the OP will find that most useful.

08-29-2014, 02:09 PM   #50
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I'm back. PPPPPP 42.I got a 28-70/4 from Keh for $65.00. Three pics attached are with that lens. I want you all to be brutally honest. The first two are in M. Some in AV were underexposed???? I did no PP. Dom, I got that book for $4.00...2003 Edition. Looks brand new. Seem that there is a lot of Info there. Todd..The buyer finally paid so the Tak Bayonet 135 is gone. Was kinda hoping he wouldn't pay. Oh well. BTW..Taking the advice I got here...shooting Raw and full resolution(14.6MP) I will attach another, a dark one which was shot in AV for your comments. Thanks.

---------- Post added 08-29-14 at 05:34 PM ----------

Looking at what's attached, the pics look better on the 2 1/2 " LCD on the K20D. I had to resize to 1280x850. Wish I could send what is in the camera. I'm trying Faststone. Will try Paintnet.
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 

Last edited by royden; 08-29-2014 at 02:38 PM. Reason: spelling
08-30-2014, 09:01 PM   #51
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Something I note in your exif is you have the camera set to spot meter. Unless you did that deliberately and know how to correctly use it in full manual mode with methods such as the zone system it normally leads to wildly incorrect metering depending on what in the scene you are pointing it at. The mode dial likes to stick to the metering mode lever underneath it in that camera and often both will get turned at the same time plus its just easy to bump it, so its the first thing I would check whenever the metering suddenly goes wonky.

Older film cameras were mostly all similar to the center weight option if you want a more familiar behavior to the light meter.

It also doesn't help that you were dealing with very difficult scenes to correctly capture where its near impossible to avoid having both blown highlights and underexposed places at the same time. You pretty much have to decide what would be the least disrupting and distracting for the composition you have planned, or somehow recompose (find a different angle of view) to cut out some of the darkest or brightest areas while still retaining what you want. Often I have to plan a time of day to shoot a location to catch the lighting at a happy medium.

I would be curious to see some shots from your 28-70 F4 at 70mm as mine seems to perform worst at the long end which I am told is typical.

Last edited by PPPPPP42; 08-30-2014 at 09:08 PM.
08-31-2014, 05:27 AM   #52
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Royden, I hope to help you by being brutally honest from what I see, it isn't your lenses it is technique and lack of knowledge. You are the creative force that drives your photography. You create interest by directing the viewer to what it is you want to convey by using composition, focal points, perspective, converging lines, angles of view, depth of field, lighting effects etc. An artist paints with medium a photographer paints with exposure and light. First you need to have a good understanding of the basics of how to use your camera, EV light, exposure, composition, your lenses and how they work to know which lens to use. You can buy lenses till your blue in the face but if you don't know how to use a particular lens, it's strengths and weaknesses and when to use it then you wind up with a nice collection of lenses and that's about it. Here is a gent I find explains a lot of this through video in a goofy but make sense manner. If you have the notion sit down and watch his videos, they may help you.
https://www.youtube.com/user/photoexposed/playlists

Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 08-31-2014 at 05:38 AM.
08-31-2014, 12:15 PM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by Oldbayrunner Quote
Royden, I hope to help you by being brutally honest from what I see, it isn't your lenses it is technique and lack of knowledge. You are the creative force that drives your photography. You create interest by directing the viewer to what it is you want to convey by using composition, focal points, perspective, converging lines, angles of view, depth of field, lighting effects etc. An artist paints with medium a photographer paints with exposure and light. First you need to have a good understanding of the basics of how to use your camera, EV light, exposure, composition, your lenses and how they work to know which lens to use. You can buy lenses till your blue in the face but if you don't know how to use a particular lens, it's strengths and weaknesses and when to use it then you wind up with a nice collection of lenses and that's about it. Here is a gent I find explains a lot of this through video in a goofy but make sense manner. If you have the notion sit down and watch his videos, they may help you.
https://www.youtube.com/user/photoexposed/playlists
Thanks oldbayrunner, I have been watching for 45 minutes or so and will keep watching Mr. Browne. Great stuff there. Looking at the water fountain pics again I see where I used leading lines....the water spouts....the wall, although I could have moved a bit to get a better angle of view. I have a lot of the theory in my head but often times forget to put them into practice...What would you have done to improve the two scenes. That may be unfair as you were not there to what was around me.

---------- Post added 08-31-14 at 03:29 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by PPPPPP42 Quote
Something I note in your exif is you have the camera set to spot meter. Unless you did that deliberately and know how to correctly use it in full manual mode with methods such as the zone system it normally leads to wildly incorrect metering depending on what in the scene you are pointing it at. The mode dial likes to stick to the metering mode lever underneath it in that camera and often both will get turned at the same time plus its just easy to bump it, so its the first thing I would check whenever the metering suddenly goes wonky.

Older film cameras were mostly all similar to the center weight option if you want a more familiar behavior to the light meter.

It also doesn't help that you were dealing with very difficult scenes to correctly capture where its near impossible to avoid having both blown highlights and underexposed places at the same time. You pretty much have to decide what would be the least disrupting and distracting for the composition you have planned, or somehow recompose (find a different angle of view) to cut out some of the darkest or brightest areas while still retaining what you want. Often I have to plan a time of day to shoot a location to catch the lighting at a happy medium.

I would be curious to see some shots from your 28-70 F4 at 70mm as mine seems to perform worst at the long end which I am told is typical.

You are correct. Spot is probably the worse for the water shot and it was a bright sunny day..the time Bryan Peterson calls pool time, his time to find a pool and hang out. As I said in the post to oldbayrunner, I have a lot of the theory done but forget to use them. As Mr. Browne says in his videos, look around from different angles etc. I will post some of the lens at 70 for you soon.

09-06-2014, 04:30 PM   #54
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To addHi PPPPPP42. Attaching a few with the 28-70/4. All at 70mm but one. Did a bit of PP here and there. Another bright sunny day. Getting a lens hood from China. Let me know what you think.
I'm having a hard time with manual in the bright sun so I've been using the top LCD. If EV bar was along the side, would that help? Where is it on K5 and later models?
Thanks.
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K20D  Photo 

Last edited by royden; 09-06-2014 at 04:45 PM. Reason: to add more info
09-09-2014, 05:44 AM   #55
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I find the top LCD invaluable on bright days. There is an EV meter there. It's also useful to point the camera in the general direction you'll be shooting and adjust shutter speed and aperture to see how your EV and ISO react. I find it very quick and easier to see than the viewfinder display in many cases.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/reviews/pentax-k5/walkthrough.html
09-09-2014, 10:24 AM   #56
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Thanks Ter, That's what I do now. The Manual shot of the stature had to be lightened up a bit. I don't think I did anything on the one of the dome, I like the size of the 20D. I've never seen a K5 or the others that followed...know they are smaller. Have you held one? BTW. We PMed some time ago about a K10D. I did buy it and it's working fine,
09-09-2014, 11:30 AM   #57
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The K5 is smaller than the K10, but it's like 85% the size (estimate). So still not a small camera! I gather the 20 and 10 are essentially identical size. The K5 does feel good, though. The big difference is the sensor - the technology change from CCD to CMOS yields different images, like using different types of film.

I sometimes have to adjust exposure, too - there's only so much you can estimate. The camera's still going to meter how it meters.
09-11-2014, 11:08 AM   #58
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I am not of the opinion that one should spend a good sum of money to have good lenses, I have a particularly good collection of manuals for my Takumar lenses are a real gem at a great price.

Despite having seen excellent images with the kit lens, I recommend a good fixed mount 35mm lens replacement thereof as usual for more pictures.
09-11-2014, 05:22 PM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by Imatginarium Quote
I am not of the opinion that one should spend a good sum of money to have good lenses, I have a particularly good collection of manuals for my Takumar lenses are a real gem at a great price.

Despite having seen excellent images with the kit lens, I recommend a good fixed mount 35mm lens replacement thereof as usual for more pictures.
I just changed my signature as I have acquired the DA 35/2.4 yesterday. Have not used it much but will soon. Going to So. Florida on the 22nd.

Thanks for your input.
09-11-2014, 05:27 PM   #60
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You will be very impressed with your new lens. The sharpness, color and contrast are outstanding -- especially given the reasonable price of the lens. It was my 1st purchase to add to my kit lenses before LBA set in.
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