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09-11-2014, 05:41 PM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by ripper2860 Quote
You will be very impressed with your new lens. The sharpness, color and contrast are outstanding -- especially given the reasonable price of the lens. It was my 1st purchase to add to my kit lenses before LBA set in.
Thanks ripper. I will put some up here and in the 35/2.4 lens club. Got it for $129 shipped on ebay. I know of the dreaded LBA I'm semi terminal.
No one has chimed in about the last set of pics. Remember I said. Be brutal. I have a thick skin. Still a little soft to me.


Last edited by royden; 09-11-2014 at 05:43 PM. Reason: to add
09-11-2014, 06:58 PM   #62
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I agree. Soft and in some a bit dark/under-exposed. I suspect the sharpness is the lens or could be a sub-par UV filter. I had some real issues with my Vivtar Series 1 70-210 lens and focus -- to the point of thinking about sending it off to be adjusted. Then I saw that some shot right after I got it were nice and clear and realized that I did not have my UV filter at that time. I removed my cheap UV filter and tested with the pictures coming out tack sharp. Bought a nicer Hoya UV filter and pics are still sharp. One never knows!!

As for the under-exposure/darkness, could be the metering matrix you are using, the camera, or just your setting if you are using Av or non-Fully automatic mode, but I am far from an expert.

Last edited by ripper2860; 09-12-2014 at 07:51 AM.
09-12-2014, 07:12 AM   #63
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I find the cameras tend to slightly underexpose - which is OK with me, it's easy enough to adjust exposure in post-processing. I usually have spot-metering active, though, which easily could be part of the issue.

Skip the UV filters, the DSLR doesn't need them. Neutral filters, though, and polarizers still have their uses.
09-12-2014, 08:04 AM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
Skip the UV filters, the DSLR doesn't need them. Neutral filters, though, and polarizers still have their uses.
True. However, I use UV filter to protect the lens front element glass. Are there other recommendations for this purpose?

(Don't mean to thread-jack, but I'm sure the OP would benefit, as well. )

09-12-2014, 08:21 AM   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by ripper2860 Quote
True. However, I use UV filter to protect the lens front element glass. Are there other recommendations for this purpose?

(Don't mean to thread-jack, but I'm sure the OP would benefit, as well. )
Highjacking welcome
09-12-2014, 08:29 AM - 1 Like   #66
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QuoteOriginally posted by ripper2860 Quote
True. However, I use UV filter to protect the lens front element glass. Are there other recommendations for this purpose?

(Don't mean to thread-jack, but I'm sure the OP would benefit, as well. )

Lens hood, lens hood, lens hood. Never leave the house without it deployed. Not facing backwards, not in your bag....
The front element is pretty strong glass, but that hood helps your images and protects the glass.
09-12-2014, 09:42 AM   #67
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In addition to the lens hood suggestion, yes, there are clear filters.
Being clear and no UV and no nothing, they are for protection only
Whether either clear or UV from the same manufacturer and same series/quality is any better...

I think lens hood is the best plan unless there is a specific reason for the protective filter.

---------- Post added 09-12-14 at 11:59 AM ----------

As far as the pictures, I did have some thoughts about the train but wasn't sure it was appropriate to post... They aren't really about your specific picture, but just general observation...

Typically, the scene should travel from left to right.
Yeah, a rule of thumb, only...

So, for an image
(1) eye enters the scene, moves right and stops on subject at right
(2) eye enters scene, sees subject (left is not wrong), moves right but is stopped...

For condition (2), the eye may be stopped by dark shadows or.. something. Who knows. But the eye doesn't see the barn on the left with featureless grass only to the right. A tree on the right, if even only partly in the frame, would give a point to stop the eye.. move back to the barn. Maybe this isn't a good description...

Okay, so some theoretical rule of thumb stuff.
Sometimes flipping a picture horizontally makes a difference. Sometimes that isn't a good idea because text is backwards or cars are on the wrong side of the road

I know you have only what is there to photograph, but the trains don't have a start or end. The line leads through the picture, of course, but it would be interesting to see the locomotive or caboose leaving the frame in either the foreground or distance. Or, if not, a car that stands out from the others... Your cars aren't all the same but I couldn't see a difference enough to read 'there's the subject'.

In the first train picture, my eye ends up at the tree and building in the distance.
The track and gravel lead there. for me.
09-12-2014, 10:50 AM   #68
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QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
Lens hood, lens hood, lens hood. Never leave the house without it deployed. Not facing backwards, not in your bag....
The front element is pretty strong glass, but that hood helps your images and protects the glass.
I'm gonna need a bigger bag!

09-12-2014, 10:51 AM   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
Lens hood, lens hood, lens hood. Never leave the house without it deployed. Not facing backwards, not in your bag....
The front element is pretty strong glass, but that hood helps your images and protects the glass.
I'm gonna need a bigger bag!
09-12-2014, 12:17 PM   #70
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From the look of things, twice as big
QuoteOriginally posted by ripper2860 Quote
I'm gonna need a bigger bag!
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