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08-25-2014, 06:01 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Oldbayrunner Quote
sorry Borisclito none of those should stick unless there is something wrong with the spring.
I guarantee you that the Sears lens will get stuck. In fact it was stuck on a non-functioning ZX-5. The only way to get it off was brute force, which sheared the top off the pin.

Kozlok's example is actually my example. It's a bad example for a few reasons, the main of which is that that pin can't get stuck at all. It retracts when you move the aperture ring off of A (P). (It was a Kobori made Vivitar 28-200)


Last edited by boriscleto; 08-25-2014 at 06:13 AM.
08-25-2014, 06:49 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
I guarantee you that the Sears lens will get stuck. In fact it was stuck on a non-functioning ZX-5. The only way to get it off was brute force, which sheared the top off the pin.

Kozlok's example is actually my example. It's a bad example for a few reasons, the main of which is that that pin can't get stuck at all. It retracts when you move the aperture ring off of A (P). (It was a Kobori made Vivitar 28-200)
Agreeing with this. I collect Sears lenses (far as I can tell I'm only missing about 3 of the K-mounts) and IMHO the best treatment for a Ricoh pin is to nuke it on sight. its literally a five minute operation to remove the thing, and it ensures it won't stick in your camera without having to look and go "Oh, well that's a safe one" or "Well that's unsafe".

Taking a chance and then having it get stuck just seems unwise to me. Why take the risk of damaging your camera or your lens just because you couldn't afford five minutes of fiddling with a screwdriver?
08-25-2014, 10:43 AM   #33
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Manual lenses are great - especially for stationary subjects like food, unless your food is still trotting around the kitchen. You should have the time and space to compose, focus, check the histrogram/preview, and repeat if necessary. I know people have preferences toward the A series and the like because it is easier to get an exposure reading with them. However, I have used everything from older M42 lenses to A series with very good results. Sometimes you have to use Manual mode and add some exposure composition.

Most manual lenses are very good when stopped down a bit and when you set your expectations for the target display. If you're making a 4"x6" print or display in a book then almost anything will work. If you're pixel peeping then you're asking for trouble. However, it's pretty hard to find a bad 35mm or 50mm lens. The designs were very well established. Bad 28mm lenses are more common. There are many more bad 135mm, 200mm, etc lenses out there. Buyer beware!
08-25-2014, 03:55 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Dieterson Quote
This is a good point. Even though I recommend to try old lenses and like using them myself; this does not mean that every old lens is automatically a good lens (yes, there are a lot of horrible old lenses out there). However, the Lens Reviews on this forum are quite helpful to find the good ones. If you, like the OP, have already some old lenses, I don't see any reason why you shouldn't give them a try and find out for yourself if you like it or not.
Except for the Ricoh pin there's no harm in experimenting, but if you're not experienced with DSLRs and various lenses, it's difficult to know what's good or bad unless you have other lenses to compare to. It might help to read some of the detailed reviews on the forum so you know how to test for certain characteristics, such as chromatic aberrations, or consistency across the frame, but sometimes there's no substitute for just testing a specific copy of one model against another.

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