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09-03-2014, 07:14 AM   #1
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Permanently fixing K adapter to M42 thread lenses

Hi,

I'm sure somebody must have tried this already but here goes anyway.

I have a number of preset m42 lenses and it occurs to me that, with Chinese adapters not costing a fortune, it would be more convenient to permanently fix one to a lens with say Super Glue.

I realise that the little spring retainer on the adapters would have to be removed otherwise you would never be able to remove the lens from the camera and that this would leave the lens a little insecure. On lenses where the base is large enough to reach the outer limits of the camera mount it should be possible to drill a small recess to engage the locking pin and secure the lens that way and also stop it from turning on the mount if the focus is a bit stiff.

This seems too simple so I suspect I'm missing something somewhere otherwise everybody would be doing it, any advice welcome.

I do realise you probably won't be able to sell the lens afterwards but I've no intention of doing that anyway.

Thank you.

CD

09-03-2014, 07:36 AM   #2
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That's what I've done to mine. Just check the fit of each adapter before gluing.
09-03-2014, 07:41 AM   #3
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you don't want superglue fumes that close to the rear element of a lens. use a threadlocking adhesive instead.
09-03-2014, 08:10 AM   #4
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I used tape/threadlocking tape, just so that the adapter is on tight enough it doesn't slip.
On a t-mount I had to shim under the adapter with a layer of tape - too tight otherwise to engage with the bayonet

09-03-2014, 08:46 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by maltfalc Quote
you don't want superglue fumes that close to the rear element of a lens. use a threadlocking adhesive instead.
+1 to this.

BUT -- if you think there's a chance you'll ever want to remove it -- use blue, or even purple thread lock, not red, and don't put it all the way around. Red is the strongest, but you have to apply heat to remove it and that might damage the lens.
09-03-2014, 08:58 AM - 1 Like   #6
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Never had a lens that reacted to superglue. Of course I only use one drop, and allow to dry before mounting on camera.
With luck that good, I should be playing the lottery.
09-03-2014, 09:03 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by wildlifephotog Quote
Never had a lens that reacted to superglue. Of course I only use one drop, and allow to dry before mounting on camera.
With luck that good, I should be playing the lottery.
The fumes that it emits when curing can get on surrounding areas, it shows as a white haze.
09-03-2014, 09:09 AM   #8
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I don't use anything to secure it -- just remove the spring and screw it on (if it is tight can easily be removed with rear K cap). Most lenses this works fine, you just have to remember you've only got a friction fit. Some lenses with very little or no overlap at the base could use some help being more secure (you also have to worry about light leaks through the adapter with lenses like that).

I have used superglue on the aperture pin on many lenses, never had a problem with fogging the rear element but I only use the thick gel type.

09-03-2014, 09:53 AM   #9
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Interesting that cyanoacrylate super glue was invented by Eastman Kodak and sold to Loctite.
Loctite does not recommend anaerobic methacrylate thread locker in vicinity of plastics (see Q6 and Q11 here).
Maintenance & Repair Frequently Asked Questions - Henkel
09-03-2014, 12:45 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by wildlifephotog Quote
That's what I've done to mine. Just check the fit of each adapter before gluing.
Good point thanks, I had one adapter that I had to sand down the perimeter before it would rotate easily.

---------- Post added 09-03-2014 at 08:48 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by maltfalc Quote
you don't want superglue fumes that close to the rear element of a lens. use a threadlocking adhesive instead.
Thanks, I had not thought about fumes, I usually use Super Glue to lock threads together and never noticed any fumes.

---------- Post added 09-03-2014 at 08:58 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by narual Quote
+1 to this.

BUT -- if you think there's a chance you'll ever want to remove it -- use blue, or even purple thread lock, not red, and don't put it all the way around. Red is the strongest, but you have to apply heat to remove it and that might damage the lens.
Thank you. I wouldn't put it all the way round anyway just in case something went wrong. I shall wander down to my hardware store in the morning and see if they have any thread lock, I shall be surprised if they have, the glue section is sort of sandwiched between the rat poison/mouse traps and speed nails, it's that kind of store.

---------- Post added 09-03-2014 at 09:00 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by crewl1 Quote
The fumes that it emits when curing can get on surrounding areas, it shows as a white haze.
Thanks, Is it a sort of gritty white haze, I have 2 lenses exhibiting this on the metal just under the front element ?

---------- Post added 09-03-2014 at 09:04 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by vonBaloney Quote
I don't use anything to secure it -- just remove the spring and screw it on (if it is tight can easily be removed with rear K cap). Most lenses this works fine, you just have to remember you've only got a friction fit. Some lenses with very little or no overlap at the base could use some help being more secure (you also have to worry about light leaks through the adapter with lenses like that).

I have used superglue on the aperture pin on many lenses, never had a problem with fogging the rear element but I only use the thick gel type.
Thanks, I would never have thought of using the K cap to remove the adapter, I've used a couple of Helios lenses with small bases and never noticed any light leaks but I'll bear it in mind.

---------- Post added 09-03-2014 at 09:11 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by wombat2go Quote
Interesting that cyanoacrylate super glue was invented by Eastman Kodak and sold to Loctite.
Loctite does not recommend anaerobic methacrylate thread locker in vicinity of plastics (see Q6 and Q11 here).
Maintenance & Repair Frequently Asked Questions - Henkel
Thank you, I read the safety notes, the lenses I have in mind are pre-set Russian ones more or less straight out of the tank factory and I don't think there is any plastic in them. I see where you're coming from though, we once used a dust inhibitor in a factory concrete floor, the client later changed their mind and decided to lay vinyl tiles, looked OK for a while then the whole thing turned into a gooey mess some disagreement between the inhibitor and the vinyl tile adhesive, I believe in Murphy's Law.
09-03-2014, 01:18 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by PenPusher Quote
Thanks, I would never have thought of using the K cap to remove the adapter, I've used a couple of Helios lenses with small bases and never noticed any light leaks but I'll bear it in mind.
If you remove the spring it can create a hole. Had a light leak one of my Meyer-Optik lenses with the tapering base -- used a big rubber washer to create more base as I described in a post around here somewhere once...
09-03-2014, 03:21 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by wombat2go Quote
Loctite does not recommend anaerobic methacrylate thread locker in vicinity of plastics (see Q6 and Q11 here).
Yep, plastics such as the focusing screen and aspheric elements...

A small spot of plain Loctite (the non-permanent type) is a good option.


Steve
09-06-2014, 09:26 AM   #13
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If you permanently attach the adapters, then you can't sell the lenses again later to some non-K-mount user who might want to buy your M42 lenses. You need to consider future selling potential, especially since people don't live forever.
09-06-2014, 10:36 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by zekewhipper Quote
If you permanently attach the adapters, then you can't sell the lenses again later to some non-K-mount user who might want to buy your M42 lenses. You need to consider future selling potential, especially since people don't live forever.
That is why you use blue Loctite or teflon tape. Either substance will provide adequate resistance to allow semi-permanent attachment with the option of removal at any time.


Steve
09-06-2014, 11:34 AM - 1 Like   #15
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I affixed a separate M42 adapter to each of mine as well to make things faster in the field. I too frown upon using superglue because of the white residue that will continue to appear on the glass even days after the glue is dry. I once tried to repair a glass filter that fell out of its ring with CA and though I masked the glass with tape, I took off the tape too soon and a week later, found the haze all over the filter.

Back to the M42 rings, I used clear nail polish for some and loctite for some and have had good results.
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