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09-06-2014, 09:59 AM   #1
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K200D manual focus switch

I have had a K200D for several years now. Ever since I received it I have never been able to get it to work in manual focus. I thought for a long time that it was a firmware issue. When the switch got stuck (after the warranty expired), I realized that it is probably a broken switch inside the camera. I am currently able to slide the switch, but it never works. Is this something I can replace myself (I have experience with electronics)? If not, who do you recommend sending it to?

09-06-2014, 11:10 AM   #2
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Send the camera to Precision Camera in NC. They are the authorized Pentax shop.

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09-22-2014, 05:36 PM   #3
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The focus switch has two parts: a electrical switch and a mechanical spindle.

The electrical switch can be checked in the switch menu at debug mode, to confirm its position. The switch is mounted on a small PCB and wired out to main PC board. (check other posts for how to enable debug screen). Since you are good on electrical, yes it is not too hard to do if it just the switch. You can find service manuals online that similar to K200D for tear down. Just be careful for all the flexible cables and be sure discharge the flash cap. Zap by few hundred volts may not be biggy but may zap other electronic while doing that. (The flash sub PCBA just nearby the focus switch)

Mechanical wise, the spindle is the one engage with the lens's screw drive. It is easy to check by remove the lens and look at screw drive spindle on the body at mounting ring. In auto focus mode it should stick out and manual focus it will retrieve (level with the mounting ring). If the spindle does not retrieve, try push the spindle down see if it is frozen. It should feel like spring loaded. If switch to manual won't allow you turn the focus ring that also indicate the spindle did not retrieve.

The plastic slider has a metal piece attached under, that engage with a plastic slider which push the spindle down and move the electrical switch. The metal piece may jumped out from the slider if both electrical and mechanical switch fail.
12-11-2014, 10:47 PM   #4
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Thanks for the info Twey. If the pin you are talking about is the one closest to the manual/auto switch, then on mine it apparently turns rather than retracts. There is a slot in the receiving end on the lens, and it is not stuck, but the pin on the body does not turn when the switch is flipped. This may be my main problem. I will try to find a service manual that can tell me how to disassemble the body in the vicinity of the switch. Again, thanks.

12-12-2014, 06:41 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ken Piper Quote
Thanks for the info Twey. If the pin you are talking about is the one closest to the manual/auto switch, then on mine it apparently turns rather than retracts. There is a slot in the receiving end on the lens, and it is not stuck, but the pin on the body does not turn when the switch is flipped. This may be my main problem. I will try to find a service manual that can tell me how to disassemble the body in the vicinity of the switch. Again, thanks.
The pin is close to the AF/MF switch. Its tip is look like end a flat screw driver. The way it work is, on AF mode it is above the mounting ring (bayonet) which allow it engage with lens screw drive. You can grab and turn it with your finger nails. When in the MF mode the pin retract back under mounting surface that allow the lens focus ring to turn freely. If it is not retract, that is the problem. If the LCD display does not shown MP when you switch to it, likely just the switch slider is off (plastic, not actual electrical switch).

Typically (since I don't have a K200D), the top and bottom need to removed first then the front cover. Be aware there maybe two screws next to the finder under rubber eye cup and one screw in flash cavity (need to pop the flash first before you remove the battery.)
12-15-2014, 02:37 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by twey Quote
The pin is close to the AF/MF switch. Its tip is look like end a flat screw driver. The way it work is, on AF mode it is above the mounting ring (bayonet) which allow it engage with lens screw drive. You can grab and turn it with your finger nails. When in the MF mode the pin retract back under mounting surface that allow the lens focus ring to turn freely. If it is not retract, that is the problem. If the LCD display does not shown MP when you switch to it, likely just the switch slider is off (plastic, not actual electrical switch).

Typically (since I don't have a K200D), the top and bottom need to removed first then the front cover. Be aware there maybe two screws next to the finder under rubber eye cup and one screw in flash cavity (need to pop the flash first before you remove the battery.)
Thanks twey. I realized my mistake after I wrote my previous response. That is, that the turning of the pin actually does the focusing of the lens, not turning it on. In my case, the pin does not retract. It can be pushed in and it goes in when you press the button to remove the lens, so it is not stuck. Regarding the electrical connection, I don't see anything on the LCD on the top showing whether it is in manual or auto mode. On the menu screen on the back the top entry says AF Mode: AF.S and does not change when moving the switch.

I think the switch is broken inside. When I first got the camera, I though it was a firmware issue, and I never got around to getting it fixed under warranty (you know how it is, I didn't want to be without my camera - always some event coming up when I would need it). Then, one time the switch was stuck (couldn't slide it). I got it freed up but still the same - would not go to manual mode. That's when I figured out it was the switch. And when I started asking about getting it fixed I realized that the repair cost was probably as much as the camera is worth at this point. So my alternative is to try to fix it myself. You are the only one that seems to know how to do it, so I thank you for your responses. I found a service manual online, but it tries to tell you everything in pictures, so you can understand in any language. But the pictures don't tell me which part of the disassembly I need to do. It does not look like the front comes off. I will look it over again. Maybe I can send you a picture, if that will help.

Ken
12-15-2014, 04:10 PM   #7
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When you move the AF switch, does the pin retract? If not, likely be very simple to fix.

Let me clear couple of things:
1. the AF.S should change to MF if changed to manual focus. That is what confirm the electrical switch does work.
2. The both mechanical and electrical mechanism are operate by same slider. So, there still a chance the switch is bad and mechanical also defect.
3. The slider has a piece of metal that engage with the mechanism for both switch and pin retracting assembly. This thin piece of metal can jump off the slot which make slider none functional. The retracing assembly are the same for lens release, so we can say most part of it is ok. Putting back the front cover carefully and hold it down tight when secure with screws. It is easy to miss it.

Since I don't have a K200D, I don't know exact how to properly disassemble it. I can list what I know about K-m I have (learn from try and error ) if that helps.
12-16-2014, 02:56 PM   #8
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Disassemble

I check the manual from online for K200D, it has proper disassemble procedure but did not show much of mechanism that you are interest of.

First, you do not need to remove back cover and finder. I think you can skip to the front cover after top and bottom are removed.
Here are couple of pictures from K-m which the AF/MF switch and mechanical structure are exposed for your reference.
(the picture was taken with lens mount removed. It is not necessary in you case since the pin does retract when button is pressed.) (I did not remove the top cover first few time I disassemble my K-m/2000. It is lot easier if the top is removed. Learn by mistake...)

The small slot at right, next to bigger screw, in first picture is where the slider metal part at front cover AF/MF slider should engaged. The long bending metal is for lens button. The second picture shown the AF/MF switch. It also shown the slot below AF pin. The plastic slides toward right to push the AF/MF switch when in MF. It also push the AF screw pin downward The K200D looks similar as far as I can tell.

I did repair the AF switch once on another K-m. It was one of those "electrical lubricant" type of problem. Clean up and if works again. The switch is so tiny it require operate under microscope. Hope you don't need to go there.

The bigger PCB and big cap is the flash circuitry. The K200D has it behind metal bracket so it is little more safe. Be aware of high voltage still. Discharge the cap per manual.


Last edited by twey; 12-16-2014 at 04:00 PM.
12-16-2014, 04:32 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by twey Quote
I check the manual from online for K200D, it has proper disassemble procedure but did not show much of mechanism that you are interest of.

First, you do not need to remove back cover and finder. I think you can skip to the front cover after top and bottom are removed.
Here are couple of pictures from K-m which the AF/MF switch and mechanical structure are exposed for your reference.
(the picture was taken with lens mount removed. It is not necessary in you case since the pin does retract when button is pressed.) (I did not remove the top cover first few time I disassemble my K-m/2000. It is lot easier if the top is removed. Learn by mistake...)

The small slot at right, next to bigger screw, in first picture is where the slider metal part at front cover AF/MF slider should engaged. The long bending metal is for lens button. The second picture shown the AF/MF switch. It also shown the slot below AF pin. The plastic slides toward right to push the AF/MF switch when in MF. It also push the AF screw pin downward The K200D looks similar as far as I can tell.

I did repair the AF switch once on another K-m. It was one of those "electrical lubricant" type of problem. Clean up and if works again. The switch is so tiny it require operate under microscope. Hope you don't need to go there.

The bigger PCB and big cap is the flash circuitry. The K200D has it behind metal bracket so it is little more safe. Be aware of high voltage still. Discharge the cap per manual.
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