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09-27-2014, 03:16 PM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kriss Quote
Undot, I initially had my color space on sRGB. I read something last week that made me change it to Adobe RGB, but I'm thinking I may change it back based on what you said. I don't want to deal with post-processing for that if I don't have to.
RAW files don't have a particular color space. Like the other settings, the camera settings are used to create the embedded preview and included in the metadata, but you can switch spaces later. How depends on your software.

09-29-2014, 12:13 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
You could open the RAW file in the Pentax Digital Camera Utility program. Although the software is kind of frustrating, it does have all the in-camera JPG settings and scene modes. You can try them all to see if any of them looks better to you, maybe a hint about how to process your shots. Unfortunately, the Pentax settings aren't directly available in Lightroom. You can possibly create your own preset with a similar effect.

Either the Pentax software or Lightroom should allow you to change white balance settings. I might try using the WB sample tool on different white-painted areas. Try both visible sides of the barn; they'll give different WB results.
Just1MoreDave, I downloaded the PDCU for my camera, which is the 3.10 version. It has the options to show the different white balances available in camera; however, I can't find the scene modes. Do you know if that was available only in later versions (e.g. 3.51 and later)? I also went through (quickly, I may add) the good mini-guide posted in 2013. Thanks again, Kriss
09-30-2014, 10:54 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kriss Quote
Just1MoreDave, I downloaded the PDCU for my camera, which is the 3.10 version. It has the options to show the different white balances available in camera; however, I can't find the scene modes. Do you know if that was available only in later versions (e.g. 3.51 and later)? I also went through (quickly, I may add) the good mini-guide posted in 2013. Thanks again, Kriss
I can't tell you for sure. I have version 4.4 and the scene modes show up in a Custom Image box, with a pull-down menu. I can open a PEF file from my *ist DS, which doesn't even have Monochrome image tone, and use that menu to change the file.

I think you can upgrade to version 4.4 with these steps:

Download the software from this page: PENTAX Digital Camera Utility 4 Update for Windows : Software Downloads | RICOH IMAGING

That downloads a file called PBLU0440.exe which is the entire program. But the installer checks to see if you have the original CD in your computer. I can't remember whether it knows your camera only used version 3.10, but you don't really need the original CD. You can trick it by renaming an SD card with this name:

S-SW132

Once it's tricked, version 4.4 installs and works with older files from all the cameras that were originally supplied with any PDCU version. It usually won't open a file that has been modified by other software, even if it started as a file from the camera. Pentax used another program for the K-01, K-30 and probably the K-50 and K-500; I don't know a lot about that.
09-30-2014, 09:30 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by manntax Quote
I think most of your concerns can be addressed in quick post-processing tweaks , here is my take - very gently treated , took no more than 5 ( with saving and uploading ) :

AFTER


BEFORE
So the big question is...Which is the color you were wanting when you took the picture? The original version is probably closest to how it really looked, but the second is more likely to be hung on the wall.

One other thing that is often overlooked is that you can't work with something that is not there. For example, if the longer wavelengths (warmer color) light is not available and illuminating the subject, you will have a very difficult time "warming" the photo in post-processing. The wavelengths in available light vary by the time of day and the source (sky vs. direct sun vs. diffuse sun and so forth).


Steve

10-01-2014, 12:14 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
RAW files don't have a particular color space. Like the other settings, the camera settings are used to create the embedded preview and included in the metadata, but you can switch spaces later. How depends on your software.
This I didn't know, thank you for pointing it out. I figured it was something to be set in advance. But it does make sense that any image compression, like restricting it to a certain colour space, happens only when interpreting the RAW data. That's what RAW is for after all.

So I guess my advice wasn't too helpful, Kriss. But I guess it doesn't hurt to be aware of the possible issues with it.
10-01-2014, 02:44 AM   #21
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You can definitely make the image pop in post processing. I decided to take a stab at your photo in corel photopaint x4. Changes made: used auto-adjust feature to start with.... this brought it in line with the changes another forum member had done to the color. Afterwards, I modified the brightness/contrast/intensity settings (in this case -2 bright, 25 contrast, 10 intensity. Finally, I changed the gamma to 0.71. The end result was a slightly overdriven red color on the building, and much darker grass and trees. But you can see just how drastic slight tweaks make. At the same time, however, these tweaks did kill the sky in the image.
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10-02-2014, 03:32 PM   #22
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Thanks for the instructions, Just1MoreDave! I'll try them this weekend!
10-02-2014, 09:31 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kriss Quote
I kind of wish I never learned about photography with 35mm and just started with digital--I keep trying to transfer my old, "analog" knowledge to digital. Post processing? That was something I only did with B&W--a dark room, chemicals, and print trays! I have Lightroom 4 and have not done much with it--I really think I need to take a class.
Oh man can I sympathize. I am in the same boat. PP back then was dodging and burning using stuff like small circles of card on the end of a thin stick. I even recall rubbing paper in the tray to get results. This digital thing is much more involved than I anticipated.

Good luck.

10-04-2014, 02:46 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
So the big question is...Which is the color you were wanting when you took the picture? The original version is probably closest to how it really looked, but the second is more likely to be hung on the wall.

One other thing that is often overlooked is that you can't work with something that is not there. For example, if the longer wavelengths (warmer color) light is not available and illuminating the subject, you will have a very difficult time "warming" the photo in post-processing. The wavelengths in available light vary by the time of day and the source (sky vs. direct sun vs. diffuse sun and so forth).


Steve
Steve, you're probably right in the the original version was closer to the true color. Maybe this wasn't the best example for my question; I'm not happy with a lot of the color in my photos. I admit most of mine are taken during late morning/afternoon and I'll try to start seeing what they look like in the early a.m. hours and right before sunset.

---------- Post added 10-04-14 at 05:52 PM ----------

Thanks, Auzzie-Phoenix, for showing me what more can be done with post-processing! The red's a bit much, but I like the darker green of the grass and trees.
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