Originally posted by wildlifephotog Nail polish remover and some chop sticks will get the gooey old seals out.
NO! NO! NO!
Nail polish remover contains acetone which has the potential to etch various plastic optical parts of the camera. The proper solvent to soften and help remove old light seal foam is lighter fluid (a.k.a. Ronsonol).
As for the light leak...It is most likely at the seals around the film door on the camera's back. A light leak around the mirror is possible, but usually shows on long exposures when the camera is strongly backlit. Did you have the light leak on more than one frame, but in a somewhat different location in each frame? Does it extend beyond the frame edges into the sprocket holes? A light leak in the mirror box will be in the same location on each exposure where it shows and will not extend beyond the film frame.*
As for the seal replacement...
- You can expect to pay $45+ USD to have it done professionally
- The eBay kits are a rip-off
- Jon Goodman's kits are inexpensive ($10 USD including postage) have the best materials, come with detailed instructions and also include the only specialized tool (1) needed to do the job**. JGood21967@aol.com
Steve
* I have a camera with a light leak on the lens side of the shutter and know that from which I speak.
** To do the seal replacement you need: 1) steady hands, 2) a pair of tweezers, 3) a wooden/bamboo splint to clean out the old seal material (part of Goodman's kit), 4) lighter fluid to soften the old seal material for removal, 5) a few soft cotton rags to help clean off the goo off tools and hands and what not.
---------- Post added 11-07-14 at 03:38 PM ----------
Originally posted by Josh9623 I ran a flash light around all the seams and the only light coming through is from around the mirror.
Shining the light through the viewfinder eyepiece with shutter open (mirror up)?
You are aware that a light leak from the rear seals will not be visible unless you are inside the film chamber with the door shut and the shutter closed, right? Usually that sort of light leak is at the hinge side near the take-up spool.
Steve
---------- Post added 11-07-14 at 03:46 PM ----------
Originally posted by Josh9623 that actually raises another question. Does the light meter in the viewfinder assume that the aperture will be wide open or does it have a way to read the setting when determining exposure?
The meter measures the light striking the focus screen prior to exposure. (The light sensors are on either side of the eyepiece and basically see what you see.) The meter reading is biased according to the aperture ring position based on the position of a coupler tab on the lens that engages a corresponding tab on the body. The system is quite elegant in its design and is not dependent upon any component "knowing" the actual maximum aperture or the actual f/number, shutter speed, or aperture. You can see the lens side of the aperture coupling by looking at the lens mount while turning the aperture ring. There is a little tab that moves in a groove as an extension of the aperture ring.
Steve
---------- Post added 11-07-14 at 03:50 PM ----------
Originally posted by Josh9623 is it a function of the lens itself not the aperture that would cause the prism to black out?
Prism blackout is a characteristic of all split image focus aides. The point at which this happens is dependent on lens aperture (not the amount of light) and differs according to prism design. Most will have some blackout at f/5.6 and narrower, while others (the Nikon K3 and KatzEye screens, for example) will resist blackout to f/8 or f/11.
Steve