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12-23-2014, 07:30 PM   #31
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Thanks Tom. Good to know.

12-23-2014, 07:39 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by kh1234567890 Quote
I doubt that CA is caused by the trees
Very many sharp dark edges (branches and leaves) against a bright sky is the perfect scenario for purple fringing.
12-23-2014, 09:59 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by btnapa Quote
I do nature and landscape shots these days. Since budget was tight, I opted for the Sigma 10-20 F3.5-5.6. The lens is reasonably sharp wide open and it is much better when stopped down to f10 to f13. A friend of mine has the Tamron 10-24 and is very happy with it. I wanted to go with the Tamron but I tried it at one of the photo shows and it was terrible. Perhaps they had a bad copy at the show (Tamron, why would you bring a bad copy of a lens to a major photographers trade show) .

The samples I saw of the Tamron 10-24 a few posts down on this thread are beyond words. I am not sure how much PP was applied but they look sharp and contrasty. My other wide lens is the Pentax 16-45 which oddly enough is sharper than the Sigma 10-20 but it has lots of CA issues whereas the Sigma 10-20 has almost non.

My guess is that for tall trees an ultra wide is a must. Sigma and Tamron are reasonable solutions costing less than $600. My other lenses are the three amigos and they belong to another universe as far as image quality goes. If I stay with Pentax, I plan to get either the DA12-24 or the DA15 Limited.

I would be curious to know which way you decide to go and how you like the results. Good luck my friend.
thanks for your help...i am going to use the kit lens to get used to the camera...will buy a 35mm now and another later...thanks for your help...reggie

---------- Post added 12-24-14 at 12:12 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Des Quote
I've just got the first of the amigos (FA 77) and all I can say is "Wow". Having all three might spoil you for any zoom. Looks like you are destined for the DA15 Ltd.

Having said that, in a forest (or inside a building) you can't always zoom with your feet, so a zoom lens is handy. The 12-24 (and the 10-xx zooms even more so) provides a very useful range.

See the excellent comparisons of ultrawide zooms:
There didn't seem a lot between them in IQ.

The DA 12-24 is prone to flare too (probably common in ultrawides), but it isn't always a bad thing. Can add a little zip.
thanks for your help and the great image...looks like i will have to settle for the 35mm for trying to do the prime lenses first...reggie
12-23-2014, 10:44 PM   #34

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35mm is good option.
Love my DA35 2.8 Macro Limited, but a fair bit more than the 2.4.

12-24-2014, 12:12 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wild Mark Quote
$600 will buy you a FA20/2.8

I can highly recommend this lens. Relatively sharp from 2.8 but definitely sharp from there on.

Perhaps the 21mm is another good one to get, but, the extra stop in sped will help out in a dark forest.

The FA20/2.8 is also FF so you are 'potentially' future proofing your photography

---------- Post added 12-23-14 at 06:13 PM ----------

Re: K50 - a good camera. No capacity for a grip, which a K5ii does. Also, the K5ii has 80 ISO and better dynamic range (14 bit RAW).

If you can pick up a cheap K5iis somewhere (now discontinued) then you get a better camera again - no AA filter - sharper images. That is the amera I would recommend unless you opt for a K3.

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