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01-05-2015, 01:12 PM   #1
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Where can I buy lens felt?

Hello,

I'm looking to buy some of the felt used to line metal lens caps. It's also on the insides of Pentax Ltd lens hoods.
I went to a couple of regular fabric stores but the closest thing I could find was velour, which is similar, but not what I want.
I'm attempting to line the inside of my deglassed teleconverter for an auto extension tube. The tube is creates functional macros, but flares like crazy.
I actually lined it with the velour and much of the flare is gone. Just by looking at the velour, it seems to reflect more light than the lens fabric, hence my desire to buy some and try it out.

01-05-2015, 01:28 PM   #2
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I think you would be better off with coating the inside of the tube with some matte black paint.
01-05-2015, 01:37 PM   #3
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Protostar Telescope Making & Upgrading

This self adhesive telescope flocking is really black, of lower reflectivity than Krylon Camo Matt black.

The downside of flock is that particles of lint attach to it, it might need vacuum cleaning occasionally
01-05-2015, 02:10 PM   #4
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Edmondsoptics:http://www.edmundoptics.com/lab-production/general-tools/light-absorbing-bla...-material/1502
Believe it is often called flocking material. BTW I have not ordered from Edmonds their flocking material.

01-05-2015, 03:16 PM   #5
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The telescope flocking really isn't going to buy any noticebale advantage over the Matte black. I've tested it against the Rustoleum version of the matte paint wombat mentions, and there is no noticeable difference in performance between the two in real world shooting.

Both perform substantially better than the plain black ano typically used in lens barrels, which reflects quite a bit of light. If you do ending up using any sprayed paint or adhesive, make sure you let it outgas for several days before mounting any lenses on it or attaching it to your camera, as otherwise you can end up with hazed matte surfaces.

Real flocking as you see in factory-produced items is applied electrostatically. and is beyond the capabilities of the typical home workshop. There are compressed air applicators available that are somewhat cheaper, but they don't perform nearly as well. And either way, the process can be extremely messy.
01-05-2015, 03:20 PM   #6
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Micro-tools might also have what you need:

Light Baffle

A hobby shop catering to model train and/or doll house modelers might also be a good source.


Steve
01-05-2015, 03:24 PM   #7
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I would use a strip of leather (cut from old-torn leather wallet) and use it as lining (turning inside out) for metal lens cap.
01-05-2015, 04:04 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
The telescope flocking really isn't going to buy any noticebale advantage over the Matte black. I've tested it against the Rustoleum version of the matte paint wombat mentions, and there is no noticeable difference in performance between the two in real world shooting.
Hi, DC,
There is a big difference between brushed Rustoleum Flat Black (outer rectangle) and Protostar flocking ( inner annulus)
I took this photo with the ring flash to get maximum bounce for a measurement in Gimp

The Rustoleum brightness is 30/255 while the Protostar flock is only 7/255

The Krylon is not as low reflectivity as the brushed Rustoleum but sometimes is easier to apply.
(The Vegemite has not been measured, I love it for breakfast)

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01-05-2015, 04:38 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by wombat2go Quote
Protostar Telescope Making & Upgrading

This self adhesive telescope flocking is really black, of lower reflectivity than Krylon Camo Matt black.

The downside of flock is that particles of lint attach to it, it might need vacuum cleaning occasionally


There have been some serious issues with Protostar customer service. I suggest that anyone looking for flocking go to scopestuff. I've used his material many times and he delivers quick.


ScopeStuff


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01-05-2015, 05:00 PM   #10
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Hi Wombat,

I used the Rustoleum Camouflage Black spray paint, which is quite a bit more matte than their regular version. Comparing the finished pieces to the flat paint used on light baffles used in major OEM lenses, it's virtually indistinguishable. I tested performance against adhesive-backed telescope flocking as well. This was a couple of years ago when I was purchasing many Fotodiox adapters , which are plain black anodized on this inside, for use with NEX, m4/3, and Q mirrorless. While the flocking itself looked darker to the eye, identical adapters with the two different treatments applied showed no distinguishable difference in flare or coma performance in photographs when pointed at a light source. Since then, I've just used the paint, since it's easier to apply, can be masked off, and doesn't shed fibers like flocking sheets can along cut edges. I will use the flocking, or even plain black velveteen to line slide-on lens caps or retractable hoods, but it is more for the purposes of maintaining smooth friction against the barrel rather than optical performance. I'll dig around and see if I still have the samples anywhere and post them if I can find them.

A direct, head-on test will exaggerate the amount of perceived light reflected - on the curved inner surface of a barrel, specular reflection onto the sensor plane is already low - adding the matte material diffuses reflected light, thus eliminating the appearance of flare. While the dark material may absorb more light, we've already gone well past a point of diminishing returns when we move on from matte paint to flocking; The effect of the difference really isn't significant enough to have a noticeable effect in standard photographic applications. In Telescopy/astrophotography, where the amount of incident light is much lower, the effect might become more noticeable as a loss of contrast, but extension tubes for macrophotography are exactly the opposite - a classic highly lit scenario where the minimal difference in reflectivity between the paint and the flocking will least matter, since the obvious problems sought to be avoided are caused by the specularity of the light rather than its intensity.

QuoteOriginally posted by wombat2go Quote
Hi, DC,
There is a big difference between brushed Rustoleum Flat Black (outer rectangle) and Protostar flocking ( inner annulus)
I took this photo with the ring flash to get maximum bounce for a measurement in Gimp

The Rustoleum brightness is 30/255 while the Protostar flock is only 7/255

The Krylon is not as low reflectivity as the brushed Rustoleum but sometimes is easier to apply.
(The Vegemite has not been measured, I love it for breakfast)
01-05-2015, 05:24 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Obin Robinson Quote
There have been some serious issues with Protostar customer service. I suggest that anyone looking for flocking go to scopestuff. I've used his material many times and he delivers quick.


ScopeStuff


obin
That is absolutely correct. In the astronomy world Protostar has been noted for serious issues with customer service. I've dealt with ScopeStuff many times, with nothing but excellent, quick service!
01-05-2015, 05:52 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by dcshooter Quote
but extension tubes for macrophotography are exactly the opposite - a classic highly lit scenario where the minimal difference in reflectivity between the paint and the flocking will least matter, since the obvious problems sought to be avoided are caused by the specularity of the light rather than its intensity.
Hi DC, I have nearly used up the Krylon matt black, so next time I will try the Rustoleum spray paint you mention.

Here is a test of the bore of a macro tube I made for the 4x5 Speed Graphic.

The bore was originally painted with the Krylon Matt Black spray.

I stuck a little rectangle of flock in the bore to compare the low angle specular reflection of the two surfaces.

Photographed using the Pentax - m macro f/4 100mm at iso 400, f/32 and 1/15th
Results:
The source, CFL lamp is almost RGB 255,255,255 in the bright spots

The reflection off the Paint: RGB 255,157,74

The reflection off the Flock: 16,7,4
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01-06-2015, 02:19 PM   #13
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A word of warning on flocking !!.

No matter how it is applied some always come loose. As it, and its adhesive, ages more comes loose.

Loose flock and any adhesive on it is quickly attracted to the electostaticaly charged sensor in your dslr.
You get the most humungous dust bunnies and where it touches with any adhesive the resulting mess will reduce you to tears.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/43-gatherings-events-groups/41021-kiwi-pe...ml#post2938784

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/253765-d...o-m100-f4.html

The leather idea posted earlier is most appreciated.. thankyou.!
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