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02-05-2015, 04:40 PM   #76
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FunnyUncle, you've seen the shots others posted here taken by the K-3, and even with the 18-55 kit lens.

What do you conclude?

02-05-2015, 04:52 PM   #77
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
FunnyUncle, you've seen the shots others posted here taken by the K-3, and even with the 18-55 kit lens.

What do you conclude?
Nothing... I have to wait for the service...

I like to see the examples, but what they say... nothing... it' s necessary to see the picture in full resolution. Some of them looks sharp in all picture so the question is why my pictures aren't. But some exaples are also bad... too much saturation, soft relief around the trees and buildings... but it's only bad post production, maybe... there is also noise seen in preview so the full resolution must be bad. But there are also perfect pictures especially from Norm Head. It looks sharp, I have to find why my pictures is not... I don't think that the cameras are so different and I wass using more equipment then everybody in this forum :-) that's the reason why I am here... I need support and feedback from more people becouse I did not resolve my problem...
02-05-2015, 04:57 PM   #78
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I hate to ask this, but is there any chance this service company deliberately tanked your shots to make you pay for a repair that isn't needed?

For pros, that sample shot they made was pure Amateur Hour...
02-05-2015, 05:06 PM   #79
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sagitta Quote
I hate to ask this, but is there any chance this service company deliberately tanked your shots to make you pay for a repair that isn't needed?

For pros, that sample shot they made was pure Amateur Hour...
I don' t understand well... sorry. But the service is going to check the camera and lens. Tomorrow I will know more. But actually I still have a question to myself, why I can do good output with other stuff. Actually I need clear output to get photos to fotobank. It's strictly a subjective criterion... but thanks to everybody for thair experiences, I apprecite it lot.

02-05-2015, 05:07 PM   #80
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QuoteOriginally posted by FunnyUncle Quote
I opened my mind and I realised that the members of this forum are little bit strange and blind...
I think I am both...haha ! However you and I are not the first that have asked the same questions. Just trust some of the experienced members and it will be figured out. Yes....we are all waiting for you to get the K3 camera back and see what the verdict is exactly. But be warned....if its ok you are going to ask for help all over again.
I think there is a big problem with language here also.
I sold my 18-55WR lens when I got the K3. Not because I tested it and found it to be bad. But only because of what others have said about the 18-135 being better and more versatile.
Now...do I like my K3 ? Sometimes YES and sometimes NO. For me it has the ability to be amazing. But sometimes I cant get the images I want and switch back to my K30 because I can get better consistency overall. Still learning the K3 !

---------- Post added 02-06-15 at 08:16 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
When you look at the protozone numbers, you really wonder why more people don't use the 18-55. Really, it's not a bad lens. I stopped using it because anywhere I can use the 18-55 I can use the 18-135, with more reach and flexibility. Not because I thought the lens sucked.
If you can't get good images with a kit lens... it's not the lens,
Was this the regular or the WR 18-55 ? very nice !
I cant wait to go on my trip this summer. Where I live is very depressing , and when Im depressed the creative ability goes right out the window.....the photos here help lift my spirits . Thanks !
02-05-2015, 05:19 PM   #81
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I'd start a little ways back, and indeed the service company would need this information to know what to fix. What is wrong with the photo? I see two things, one is movement blur, the other is the chromatic aberrations on the spires. The first is technique. When I get movement blur it is because either I moved the body when the exposure happened, or I caught the shake reduction at the wrong time in its reset routine. Both are a matter of learning the characteristics of the body. I guarantee that there are few photographers who can get an excellent shot out of the K3 without learning it's characteristics. The high resolution of too unforgiving. Professional means nothing around here except if accompanied by excellent results.

As for the aberrations, it is a mixture of technique and hardware. The coolpix has one focal length and is optimized for it. The lens you have is a zoom, is rather inexpensive and has limits; if you stay within them it is pretty good, but outside of those limits the quality goes down hill. You may have to choose a better lighting condition to get the best out of that lens. If you need to shoot in back lit situations, there are other lenses that will do what you ask.

General questions are useless and the responses you get back will be equally so. Why don't you ask what technique people would use to get that shoot, or what lens would be optimum?
02-05-2015, 05:24 PM   #82
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I undersand what you say. But I have obssesion for the good output :-) it' s not about the art. Now I can' t do clear and dharp picture so I can' t do the "art" right now becouse I am not satisfied with output. But the important is to have it in your hand. There are many tests and some of them are confusing, but it' s only teory. So the goal for me is sharp picture. If I can do it with more than 20 cameras I am surprised that with K3 it' s bad.
But nobody talk about my link to dxo mark... it' s interesting. The same lens but Nikon 5300 has sharpness till 17Mpix and K3 11Mpix, it' s not only teory. Sigma 18-35 art is the best for APS-C sensor with great parametres in sharpness, but in my tests failed. I also found test K3 is sweeping the Nikon D600. I don' t understand it. The dso test is quite different. But the most important is results and if anybody likes thair own everything is ok. Right now I don' t like mine. I, for that matter :-)
02-05-2015, 05:30 PM   #83
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QuoteOriginally posted by FunnyUncle Quote

I like to see the examples, but what they say... nothing...
I do not think so.

Their technique is different to yours.

And to this 'pro' who could not take two valid comparison shots.

02-05-2015, 05:32 PM   #84
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QuoteOriginally posted by derekkite Quote
I'd start a little ways back, and indeed the service company would need this information to know what to fix. What is wrong with the photo? I see two things, one is movement blur, the other is the chromatic aberrations on the spires. The first is technique. When I get movement blur it is because either I moved the body when the exposure happened, or I caught the shake reduction at the wrong time in its reset routine. Both are a matter of learning the characteristics of the body. I guarantee that there are few photographers who can get an excellent shot out of the K3 without learning it's characteristics. The high resolution of too unforgiving. Professional means nothing around here except if accompanied by excellent results.

As for the aberrations, it is a mixture of technique and hardware. The coolpix has one focal length and is optimized for it. The lens you have is a zoom, is rather inexpensive and has limits; if you stay within them it is pretty good, but outside of those limits the quality goes down hill. You may have to choose a better lighting condition to get the best out of that lens. If you need to shoot in back lit situations, there are other lenses that will do what you ask.

General questions are useless and the responses you get back will be equally so. Why don't you ask what technique people would use to get that shoot, or what lens would be optimum?
Yes it depends on light and other conditions, but the best lens would be Sigma 18-35 and Sigma 30 from Art series. That' s the reason why I am here. Sigma was terrible... so I wrote it, I am affraid to buy something to avoid other mistake. I am opened to get recomendation for some good lens. And I already wrote it.. the service company says... 18-55wr is nit lens, its only cover :-) I didn' t do mistakes, It was cover :-)
02-05-2015, 05:49 PM   #85
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I struggle to get decent shots in what I shoot, and it is almost always my technique. When I get it right the shots are satisfying. I know how long it takes me to matter a new piece of hardware, in some cases the turn of all the seasons. When I struggle, I apply the very very basics of photographic technique; stable platform, diligent metering, study the light, post processing skills, composition, etc.

Sometimes it is the hardware, but even if so often it is a matter of finding the limits within which it excels. Art always follows the point where your technique allows you to express in whatever medium you choose.

So apply the basics of photographic technique. In my honest opinion your hardware is capable of better results. I know where the choke point is in my results. Me.
02-05-2015, 06:01 PM   #86
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Im going to say one last thing. You can compare cameras and say this is better or that is worse. But how many "other" 24MP cameras have YOU used before K3 ?
The whole recipe is changed when the jar has lots of Pickles !
I rest my case. User error.
Nobody picking on you....just a fact....I know because I was one of the K3 accusers. In fact I probably was the founding member of the club ! Not any more....LUV it !
It isn't a camera like K30 or K50 that you can just pick up and bang out a bunch of decent photos. Many people think if you buy a top of the line product it will do this.....But not with a K3. Better know what your doing or you wont be a Happy Camper !
I too learned this the hard way. And years of experience with a SLR shooting film, or Pro Sumer grade Point and Shoot wont change that at all.

Last edited by Dlanor Sekao; 02-05-2015 at 06:36 PM.
02-05-2015, 08:00 PM   #87
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QuoteOriginally posted by FunnyUncle Quote
But nobody talk about my link to dxo mark... it' s interesting. The same lens but Nikon 5300 has sharpness till 17Mpix and K3 11Mpix, it' s not only teory. Sigma 18-35 art is the best for APS-C sensor with great parametres in sharpness, but in my tests failed. I also found test K3 is sweeping the Nikon D600. I don' t understand it. The dso test is quite different. But the most important is results and if anybody likes thair own everything is ok. Right now I don' t like mine. I, for that matter :-)
I have a theory about dxo result. The lens was designed and tested on Nikon camera then they just produce it in different mount. Same lens doesn't mean it will perform the same on every sensor especially between different mounts. LensRentals.com - Sensor Stack Thickness: When Does It Matter? Or they just had a not so great copy for K mount, the QC of those lenses are not the greatest to keep the cost down.

Last edited by ruggiex; 02-05-2015 at 08:07 PM.
02-05-2015, 08:16 PM   #88
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https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/16453199242_26d846b72e_o.jpg - Full size image shot on DA 20-40 F8. I think the camera is sharp enough.
02-05-2015, 08:44 PM   #89
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I am going to just come out and say it. You are barking up the wrong tree here. You are very close minded and you refuse to understand the technical differences between the two photos which are clearly visible when looking at the EXIF data. I can come to two conclusions. You are either A: fudging the results on purpose to come to a Pentax forums and troll about how Nikon is better or B: You are not sure how the settings correlate to produce a good photo. There is an old saying and it goes the best camera in the world is the one that you have in your hand. Dont come to a forum of dedicated Pentaxians and troll about how Nikon is better when its clear in the EXIF data that the settings are incorrect. If you want help then keep an open mind and ask for it, take the suggestions into consideration and try them. Dont blame the hardware first, look at technique and if that is correct then look into the hardware.
02-05-2015, 10:42 PM   #90
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Looks to me like you got one of the Antipodean models. Send it to me in Australia, it should work well here.
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