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02-28-2015, 01:23 AM   #1
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K3 and a good macro setup, budget

Hello,

Please give me ideas and tips for a good macro setup with a k3. Lens, reversed, stacked and a basic setup of the manual settings which is normally used for macro in regular daylight. Something which gives me an idea of settings and hardware setup

Thank you bunch 😄✌️

02-28-2015, 01:50 AM   #2
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These articles/thread may give you some ideas:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/54-pentax-lens-articles/152336-cheap-macr...lose-work.html
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/122-lens-clubs/143202-macro-any-means-necessary-club.html

This site is helpful too:
Extreme Macro Photography
02-28-2015, 02:33 AM   #3
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Thank you 😄
02-28-2015, 06:35 AM - 1 Like   #4
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For a very critical evaluation of a variety of macro lenses (typical macro lens; short-mount bellows; enlarging lens; microscope objectives) look @ coinimaging.com. Some of the data there is getting out-of-date, particularly the prices for some second-hand lenses. For example, the typical price of a 28mm f4 Componon enlarging lens has increased substantially because of its excellent performance as a high-magnification macro lens.

02-28-2015, 06:39 AM - 1 Like   #5
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Here ya go...
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SIGMA-105mm-F2-8-EX-AF-Macro-Lens-for-Pentax-Excellen...item3f47712fb0

or
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Exc-Condition-Tamron-SP-AF-90mm-f-2-8-Macro-Lens-For-...item20f7407961
02-28-2015, 08:35 AM - 1 Like   #6
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have a look over here:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/10-pentax-slr-lens-discussion/288412-look...estions-4.html
02-28-2015, 09:26 AM - 1 Like   #7
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Natural light plus high magnification usually means shutter speeds that are too long for handheld work. Handheld is possible for near macro in bright light, but otherwise you'd want tripod, flash, or both.

There are so many ways of getting to macro magnification that it is hardly possible to make recommendations without knowing more about what kinds of subjects you intend to photograph.
02-28-2015, 10:24 AM - 1 Like   #8
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Here is a good forum dedicated to macro and micro photography:

www.photomacrography.net

02-28-2015, 07:21 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
Natural light plus high magnification usually means shutter speeds that are too long for handheld work. Handheld is possible for near macro in bright light, but otherwise you'd want tripod, flash, or both.

There are so many ways of getting to macro magnification that it is hardly possible to make recommendations without knowing more about what kinds of subjects you intend to photograph.
I want to go in nature and take shots of insects, flowers i want furthest distance possible (still think budget solution), daylight, most weathers, I also would like to take example a bird on distance of 50 meters and only get all of its head in whole pic without cropping. I am not sure what is needed to do this though. I have the k3 with standard lens of 55mm 1.8

Thank you
02-28-2015, 07:31 PM   #10
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What you want is the Sigma 70-300 macro.... can be found second hand very cheap.... closest focus is about 7 feet so 1:2 macro from far enough away to not disturb bugs, great for flowers...















Click here for a slideshow....
02-28-2015, 07:38 PM   #11
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Making distant subjects appear close requires a long (focal length) lens. Making small subjects appear large requires a close-focusing (macro) lens. Two different things, but Norm's suggestion is a good way of getting both. Another is the Pentax DA 55-300 with the addition of the Raynox DCR-150 (a supplementary lens, sometimes called a "close-up filter") for the insects.
03-01-2015, 04:32 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
Making distant subjects appear close requires a long (focal length) lens. Making small subjects appear large requires a close-focusing (macro) lens. Two different things, but Norm's suggestion is a good way of getting both. Another is the Pentax DA 55-300 with the addition of the Raynox DCR-150 (a supplementary lens, sometimes called a "close-up filter") for the insects.
The 55-300 equipped with a close-up lens )also called a close-up "filter") does very well as a modest magnification, field-use close-up lens. The Raynox is one alternative, but also consider a Canon D250 achromatic close-up "filter" (available in 58mm diameter).
03-24-2015, 06:27 PM   #13
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Got a 55-300 pentax da lens with raynox macro, both are great and adding the raynox on the tele lens works well too, my problem is holding the camera still and get the whole picture in focus.

Kindly

Pnoob
03-24-2015, 07:23 PM - 1 Like   #14
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Holding still is always an issue wit macro. Many people like a tripod, but I find it impossible for insects. Most won't stick around while I set it up.

I use a 135mm lens with a couple of extension tubes for macro, the tubes were made by removing the glass from teleconverters. I also usually use a flash, I don't often get enough natural light to get fast shutter speeds, and it's tough enough to hold steady at 1/180 for flash usage. A flash with adjustable output helps a lot.

I also use a plain old 50mm lens with the barrel of a junk pair of binoculars mounted on it. Cheap effective macro and I've gotten some nice shots that way. Also works well in natural light, but flash helps too.

Makinon 135mm and 55mm extension tubes, flash, ISO 100, 1/180, f16. These flowers are about match head size in width.



The binocular lens macro rig, I know the description doesn't make much sense till you see it set up...



This shot was taken with it, the only macro rig I had at the time. Flower about the size of a quarter.



For insects, the only way I can use a tripod is to set up and sit there and wait for them. Otherwise I use the 135mm and usually 55 mm extension tubes, and the flash helps freeze motion a little better.

Getting the whole picture in focus is another issue, that'll never happen. When you get into macro your depth of field is gone bye bye, if you open up wider than f16 everything more than about 1/4 inch from your point of focus is bokeh. So you have to be very careful with focus, move only slightly and you're out of focus. I shoot a lot of insects, I try to use my elbow resting on a knee or a fence post, tree trunk, anything I can use to help stabilize the camera whenever possible, since I never even bring the tripod along. It gets in the way trying to shoot insects. A monopod might be worth a try, I've used mine now and then but usually I don't, I have to take it off when I start shooting tiny flowers, most are only a few inches off the ground.
03-24-2015, 07:29 PM   #15
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Thank you very much, very informative and great shots 😊👊
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