Originally posted by stevebrot OK...I just reread your comment carefully and think I found the disconnect.
- PDAF Focus confirm uses exactly the same mechanism as the PDAF auto focus
- The system attains focus by detection, not by prediction. That being said, the point of detection for PDAF may not correspond to the true focus point due to the optical characteristics of the lens (flat, indistinct, or asymmetrical phase peak).
- My understanding is that AF adjustment is a simple bias onto the system (shifts the detector off-set*) from the factory setting. Physical sensor position is not altered.
One last thing...AF adjustment applies to PDAF only. CDAF and focus peaking in live view are not adjustable.
Steve
* I have no information as to the exact process mechanism, but I have a few ideas.
This is all correct...
The big problem I see with trying to adjust for manual lenses is that the focus indicator does not necessarily indicate at the perfect focus point. If you play with manual focus, you see the focus confirmation begin and end over a range not at a point. This has led me to issues in relying on the focus indication when I'm shooting in situations with a narrow depth of field. Focus can end up front or back focused, and it depends on which direction I'm focusing from (front to back or back to front). It can be very difficult to know you are in the middle of the range, which would be the ideal.
Adjusting the global focus adjustment applies a bias to win the indicator lights up. I suppose the ideal would be to potentially dial the adjustment so the first indicator occurs at just the correct point, but I believe that would be a much larger bias than is truly needed and it would compromise the focus adjustments for autofocus lenses which are "in theory" hitting the perfect focus point. This would also require discipline in making sure you always adjust to focus from one side of perfect focus.
That being said, if a person can rely on the indicator and make it work for them without the complications listed above, more power to them. I'd guess that if you are often shooting at slower apertures the issues above are less of a problem.
For myself, I'd rather make my focus adjustments via installing a split prism and using the shims to get the focus correct.