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06-12-2015, 07:03 AM   #16
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On the earlier models (K7/K5) the auto-ISO range setting is easily accessed on the control panel (info button in recording mode) ... I'm assuming this is still the case on the K3...?

You select the range setting and can then choose your lower and upper limits ...I think the two e-dials control each independently. So if you feel you don't want to go as high as 3200, try 800 or 1600, which should be fine on a K3.

I'd be cautious about setting too low a figure for the lower setting (eg 100), as in these auto kind of situations you don't want to shoot quickly and find your shutter time was too long ... So maybe 400 is a safer lower limit ....

06-15-2015, 07:23 AM   #17
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I have it set for 100-400 at the moment
06-15-2015, 10:11 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgirl57 Quote
I have it set for 100-400 at the moment
At those ISO's indoors, you'll need flash or a tripod and subject that doesn't move.

I suggest you expand the ISO range and learn to use a good program for noise reduction. The K-3 has good noise performance and detail to spare. Good noise reduction software and technique will exploit this.

---------- Post added 2015-06-15 at 13:17 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Indeed! P mode provides full programmed exposure automation with the ability to instantly override the settings. To be honest, I don't even know why Pentax included green mode on the K-3. (Ponders the question for several minutes...ponder...ponder...ponder...) Still don't see a good use case for green mode for other for the most green of beginners.
I use P-mode almost all the time. The ability to switch to Av or Tv modes with the front and rear dials is an amazing feature. I use TAv mode frequently, but only when I'm expecting to bump ISO.

I have a use for Green mode. I use it when I hand my camera over to someone to take a photo.

Last edited by audiobomber; 06-15-2015 at 12:33 PM.
06-15-2015, 12:22 PM   #19

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QuoteOriginally posted by jgirl57 Quote
I have it set for 100-400 at the moment
Shooting outdoors most of the time with differing light situations, I have my ISO range set to 200-3200 due to the differing distance of subjects and types. By using 100-400 the range is quite limited. If you want a defined limit on very little noise in your image, you may want to resort to a setting similar to 100-1600, or 200-1600. In the different ways that I shoot I am usually under 1600 due to how I use my F-Stop and Exposure settings in TAV mode, yielding not too high of an ISO. The reason I limit myself to 3200 is because if I am in low light and I take a landscape shot or bird shot for example, that is not going to be cropped, or just be cropped in a minor way for a print, it may not reveal a very significant amount of noise. Per what I already stated, I usually am able to use settings that keep my ISO down due to the reason that I usually want to be able to crop in most cases.

As I mentioned, you may want to resort to 100-1600 or 200-1600. That would sort of a limit the chance of getting a bunch of noisy images that you did not mean to take at an ISO that is too high for something that you may want to crop.

I have the "Highlight Correction" set to "On" which automatically sets the minimum sensitivity (ISO) to 200, and my upper range is set to 3200.

When shooting indoors, unless the lighting is very good already, use of a flash head and "Manual" mode has worked very well for me. There will most likely be circumstances where you can use your pop-up flash or as I mentioned the lighting already provided may be sufficient, but otherwise a flash head can be very helpful. I have two AF360FGZ's and they perform very well. They function off camera (wireless) and on.

Last edited by C_Jones; 06-15-2015 at 12:58 PM.

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