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08-22-2015, 07:13 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
Are you shooting jpeg or raw? If it is the former, different in-camera processing can also make a huge difference.
both are raw files, nef and pef. Nikon was manual exposure, I set ap and shutter and adjusted iso if needed. pentax was shot in tav mode. I did slighty under expose or over expose some photos on the nikon because I was just shooting quickly.

08-22-2015, 08:44 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Murfy Quote

No. I don't tend to use shake reduction. I have it off on the lens of the 250 on the sigma. I did shot at a lower shutter speed with the pentax but I was sitting in the same chair both times and I have a pretty steady hand, I would think 1/360 would be sufficient, but maybe not?[COLOR=Silver]

Thanks for the suggestion, I posted two links to flicker images above, the pentax definitely looks 'hazy' or blurry to me and I am not sure then what I am doing wrong. I will make sure to use Af-c for action, would that be the cause?
To me it looks like camera shake, I would definitely use SR. Not using shake reduction for race cars or fast panning action is one thing, small kids playing team sports is another. You could have a lens problem, to rule that out do some test shots of a good still target on a tripod using a remote or 12 second delay to check your lens. If those pics are bad you have a lens or focus problem.
08-23-2015, 04:31 AM   #18
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I like this thread, especially because it pushes Pentax purists in their zone of discomfort.

QuoteOriginally posted by Murfy Quote
I spent a lot of money for the camera and lens and I would like to know why I can't seem to get over this hurdle of not getting decent shots above 115mm anymore, this is all part of the learning experience for me, and I am curious and want to learn why there is such a difference in sharpness of my images, whether it is from lens, the sensor, the camera or my own silly mistakes. I don't think there is anything wrong with improving my work or abilities or asking others how I can improve something.
From what I can from the images posted here, you compare an overexposed, max focal length, cropped from 24Mp sensor image to an image taken with same sensor size, larger pixels, not cropped and properly exposed shot.
1- overexposed translate into lower contrast, you'd have to increase contrast in post processing of the Pentax image to get the same contrast as the Nikon.
2- crop of 24Mpixel/135mm image. The lens is at it lowest MTF and you crop it, so, you magnify by 2 x edge blur , light flare etc. (basically, 24Mpixels with identical sensor size does mean that crop = lower IQ)
3- With 135mm FL , the size of the subject matter is vs AF sensor size, relatively smaller compare the Nikon situation, again, cropping is not an advantage. If you want to take neat pictures with no AF issues, the subject you AF on should be of significant size, otherwise, you may have a lot of miss-focused shots.
08-23-2015, 05:56 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
I like this thread, especially because it pushes Pentax purists in their zone of discomfort.



From what I can from the images posted here, you compare an overexposed, max focal length, cropped from 24Mp sensor image to an image taken with same sensor size, larger pixels, not cropped and properly exposed shot.
1- overexposed translate into lower contrast, you'd have to increase contrast in post processing of the Pentax image to get the same contrast as the Nikon.
2- crop of 24Mpixel/135mm image. The lens is at it lowest MTF and you crop it, so, you magnify by 2 x edge blur , light flare etc. (basically, 24Mpixels with identical sensor size does mean that crop = lower IQ)
3- With 135mm FL , the size of the subject matter is vs AF sensor size, relatively smaller compare the Nikon situation, again, cropping is not an advantage. If you want to take neat pictures with no AF issues, the subject you AF on should be of significant size, otherwise, you may have a lot of miss-focused shots.
I do have an image 3 weeks prior that is properly exposed that I can post, when I use tav mode is always overexposes. I have some that were taken closer, I guess I picked bad examples, but I will load up some more of the pictures I have taken over the past 3 weeks.

But yes basically that is exactly what I am asking,

"-Is this typical of being at the extreme of the lens?

-if not typical of being at the lens extreme, what could be a reason...? "

If it is typical, than I am interesting in getting another lens that would better suited for this because I want to buy some more lens


Last edited by Murfy; 08-23-2015 at 06:28 AM.
08-23-2015, 09:01 AM   #20
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This may not be your problem, but I used to have trouble with focus priority if AF was slow. I'd press the shutter button, AF wouldn't happen, I'd worry about the perfect shot passing me by, press the shutter button really hard, etc. When AF finally locked, I was not holding the camera in steady hands, more like trying to crush the shutter button through the body so it would fire. I'd be moving the camera too much when it fired. I had a very similar experience when I had a new lens that wouldn't focus to infinity. It had worked fine when I tested it at shorter distances. Farther away, it wouldn't lock consistently. Just another idea to test.
08-23-2015, 10:22 AM   #21
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The Pentax shot looks like slightly out of focus to my eyes, not a shake issue. I would say it is a focus issue. Try other AF-settings.
08-24-2015, 02:32 PM   #22
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thanks for the help everyone, I took the camera out today and suspect I either have a camera or lens issue problem at this point. I am doing some more testing, but at 48-55mm, my photos were out of focus at 1/250 sec and above or in focus in the wrong area. I checked everything over a few times. I am only guessing but I think it was dropped and knocked something because I had pretty good images and predictable focusing for about 6 months. I bought a 55-300 WR which I was planning on buying anyways (I could not resist the price plus a few gift cards I had) if I have issues with that, then I guess I will have to have the camera looked at.
08-24-2015, 04:33 PM   #23
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if you take your finger off the shutter after the AF locks then you are going to get blurry pictures. My guess is that the focusing point(s) was not directly on the subject when you took the picture. If that wasn't the case, then it's either your camera or more bad new for Pentax.


To be fair, I have taken pictures of moving subjects from the hip and managed to get perfectly focused pictures with my K-5II. That's with only one focusing point, the center focusing point active. You can also check some of the pictures taken by some of our members in the "Sports Photography -Single Image" thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/275291-sports-p...le-images.html


The focusing is supposed to be better on the K3 so it could be your technique, but that does not explain why you had more keepers with the Nikon ?

08-24-2015, 05:40 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
if you take your finger off the shutter after the AF locks then you are going to get blurry pictures. My guess is that the focusing point(s) was not directly on the subject when you took the picture. If that wasn't the case, then it's either your camera or more bad new for Pentax.


To be fair, I have taken pictures of moving subjects from the hip and managed to get perfectly focused pictures with my K-5II. That's with only one focusing point, the center focusing point active. You can also check some of the pictures taken by some of our members in the "Sports Photography -Single Image" thread https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/275291-sports-p...le-images.html


The focusing is supposed to be better on the K3 so it could be your technique, but that does not explain why you had more keepers with the Nikon ?
I tested more today with my kids, not heavy action shots at all (very humid and hot today, they were moving like snails, lol), I also took photos of rocks and tree stumps. I was really trying to be aware of everything I was doing and where the focus point was, shutter speed, etc. I had my nikon d200 since 2007 and was never as frustrated with that as I have been with the Pentax in the past few months. I did have great pictures for the first few months with the pentax, and I thought maybe I knew enough to be dangerous and really messed some setting up, but I have rechecked settings so many times, I think maybe something happened to the camera, like a drop or something, and I knocked something off kilter. I used back button focusing a few months ago, never noticed a big improvement. I use back button on the Nikon and have no problems at all with that. (I have no love for Nikon, it's just what I have experienced)

I noted where I focused, got the pictures home and some were in focus, some had focus on arm or dress. Some I can't find the focus anywhere. There is a plug in for Lightroom for Nikon called check focus points, I wish they had it for pentax. My only other lens are manual, so I will check when I get the new lens, and then I guess it may need repair.
08-25-2015, 10:50 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Murfy Quote
There is a plug in for Lightroom for Nikon called check focus points, I wish they had it for pentax.
As far as I remember, the Pentax Utility (based on SilkyPix) can show the focus points which were used, at least in the version delivered with the K-5.

But I haven't used that software for a long time, so I could be wrong.
08-25-2015, 11:43 AM   #26
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thanks, let me check it out.
08-26-2015, 01:22 PM   #27
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I got the 55-300mm today and took some photos to test. Haven't looked at them yet, but when people said the lens was loud, I figured how loud could it be? OMG! I think I scared off all the wildlife in a mile radius! LOL.
08-27-2015, 11:34 AM   #28
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For most uses that lens noise doesn't make any difference. It seems loud, but it's next to your ear. Compared with the 18-135 it's much louder of course.

I'd make some comparisons in highly controlled settings. Tripod, good exposure etc. at a few FL for both lenses. Find a good subject with enough contrast to make it easy.

The long end of any zoom tends not to be its strongest point, but I think the long end of the 55-300 is better than its short end. Test both Live View and viewfinder. I think we really need to figure out if there's something wrong with the lens or camera or if it's something else - what, I have no idea.

Usually I'm using center point and AF.C mode with center metering. Matrix metering for sports is probably better.
08-27-2015, 01:36 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
For most uses that lens noise doesn't make any difference. It seems loud, but it's next to your ear. Compared with the 18-135 it's much louder of course.
yes I was exaggerating , but I put the lens on and went to focus and was totally not expecting it to be so loud

QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
I'd make some comparisons in highly controlled settings. Tripod, good exposure etc. at a few FL for both lenses. Find a good subject with enough contrast to make it easy.

The long end of any zoom tends not to be its strongest point, but I think the long end of the 55-300 is better than its short end. Test both Live View and viewfinder. I think we really need to figure out if there's something wrong with the lens or camera or if it's something else - what, I have no idea.
I have been doing that with the 18-135, testing it in live view and viewfinder. I think random blurriness happens only with viewfinder. I took a lot of shots that look like a back focus issue, so I wanted to test that some more, but then I got the other lens and started playing around with that. I have to say I think I am having more in focus shots with the new 55-300.

QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
Usually I'm using center point and AF.C mode with center metering. Matrix metering for sports is probably better.
I am going to see if I can use the lens tonight or this weekend for sports, I do keep the focus on center point, but I do have Expanded Area AF(S), so it does pop around a bit, I do notice it happening more with the 55-300, although I haven't used it specifically for soccer yet. I'll have to see how things turn out this weekend.
08-27-2015, 04:39 PM   #30
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I like to use AF-C and the Auto-5 setting for moving things personally. It keeps the AF points clustered around the middle but seems to help with tracking in my experience.
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