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10-07-2015, 03:36 AM   #16
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https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/sz3/sets/72157657255192963/

Here are some pictures I took yesterday at lunch. I have no idea why but the pictures don't look that bad, sharpness wise at least. I did nothing different other than taking pictures of a much more open space. So really I have no idea where to go from here. Return it? Keep it? Idk

---------- Post added 10-07-15 at 03:38 AM ----------

And these are RAW SOOC other than auto tone in LR.

10-07-2015, 04:38 AM   #17
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Sometimes (depending on the source of light ... especially with artificial light) one can experience autofocus failures.

Maybe this is the Problem in Your case?
10-07-2015, 05:35 AM   #18
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Those look great. If you look around each of those photos at max size, you will find the spot of focus, with some grass or whatever perfectly sharp. So I think you just need some more time with the lens. People often ignore this, thinking that as soon as you put on a lens you will get its 100%, but you won't. You always need to learn the lens strengths, weaknesses, AF, and other behaviours before you will consistently get good results. You learn this subconsciously. Some axial CA wide open is expected from this lens, purple fringing is common with overcast, high-contrast weather.

If I were you, I would keep it. Maybe you can do one more test before the return period runs out, but it seems like you got a normal lens.

Last edited by Na Horuk; 10-07-2015 at 05:40 AM.
10-07-2015, 05:54 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by forest_bear59 Quote
Sometimes (depending on the source of light ... especially with artificial light) one can experience autofocus failures.

Maybe this is the Problem in Your case?
That's the only logical explanation at this point.

---------- Post added 10-07-15 at 06:05 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
Those look great. If you look around each of those photos at max size, you will find the spot of focus, with some grass or whatever perfectly sharp. So I think you just need some more time with the lens. People often ignore this, thinking that as soon as you put on a lens you will get its 100%, but you won't. You always need to learn the lens strengths, weaknesses, AF, and other behaviours before you will consistently get good results. You learn this subconsciously. Some axial CA wide open is expected from this lens, purple fringing is common with overcast, high-contrast weather.

If I were you, I would keep it. Maybe you can do one more test before the return period runs out, but it seems like you got a normal lens.
It has to be something with the AF. If I remember correctly, I had almost the same issue with my DA 50/1.8. Especially shooting concerts. My 18-135 was spot on 99% of the time however. So maybe it's all just a combination of the k50s focussing, the lesser quality plastic primes, and the slight front focussing issue I had. Plus trying to focus in low light at a concert. Though the stage was plenty bright so that seems surprising to me. But it's obviously not an issue with the lens sharpness. If you actually look at some of the pictures from the concert, I have a few of some people in the crowd I took with this lens. The sharpness is actually very good.
So I will keep it for now until I learn how to use it properly and if I decide to upgrade, I can always sell it for close to what I paid.

10-07-2015, 06:16 AM   #20
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I have a Pentax K-r, which was notorious for some focusing problems, especially in tungsten/artificial light. I read somewhere that using the latest firmware and choosing "Strong tungsten correction" in the Menu helps. Not sure if this applies to K-50, as well, but might be worth looking into. In low light scenarios, I often just focus once and leave it at that, only applying slight manual adjustments. No need to bother the AF before every photo
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