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10-20-2015, 06:01 PM   #16
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This is just a suggestion. AF.C, Spot metering, and TAV mode. Set F stop to accomodate light available and shutter speed to accomodate how quick subject is moving. ISO will adjust itself in TAV mode, but to have satisfying ISO results you can try different variations of the F stop and shutter speed settings while using TAV. Examples are: seagull in flight F8, 1000 shutter speed; flowing river F10, 400 shutter speed; bee on flower F11, 250 shutter speed. You can adjust the F stop and shutter speed to yield the best possible result, depending on the available light. The use of EV compensation is effective in providing a lighter (+) or darker (-) image, which can also influence the ISO result. For example, on some days I have shot birds in flight using F8 and 1000 shutter speed, while also using EV setting variations of +.3, +.7, or +1. When doing that, in some cases the ISO will not increase and I am gaining light on the subject at the same time. Also for example, if I shoot a flower which is quite well lit and want to reduce the ISO, I sometimes will use negative EV (-.3, -.7, -1, so on) which reduces the ISO in some cases along with reducing glare effect and improving contrast on the flower. TAV mode is what I use when shooting wildlife/landscape outdoors. I have learned from trial and error through the use of it to gain knowledge of what settings accomodate different shooting conditions/situations. I know similar information may have been posted, and these are just suggestions.


Last edited by C_Jones; 10-20-2015 at 06:44 PM.
10-21-2015, 05:27 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by C_Jones Quote
This is just a suggestion. AF.C, Spot metering, and TAV mode. Set F stop to accomodate light available and shutter speed to accomodate how quick subject is moving. ISO will adjust itself in TAV mode, but to have satisfying ISO results you can try different variations of the F stop and shutter speed settings while using TAV. Examples are: seagull in flight F8, 1000 shutter speed; flowing river F10, 400 shutter speed; bee on flower F11, 250 shutter speed. You can adjust the F stop and shutter speed to yield the best possible result, depending on the available light. The use of EV compensation is effective in providing a lighter (+) or darker (-) image, which can also influence the ISO result. For example, on some days I have shot birds in flight using F8 and 1000 shutter speed, while also using EV setting variations of +.3, +.7, or +1. When doing that, in some cases the ISO will not increase and I am gaining light on the subject at the same time. Also for example, if I shoot a flower which is quite well lit and want to reduce the ISO, I sometimes will use negative EV (-.3, -.7, -1, so on) which reduces the ISO in some cases along with reducing glare effect and improving contrast on the flower. TAV mode is what I use when shooting wildlife/landscape outdoors. I have learned from trial and error through the use of it to gain knowledge of what settings accomodate different shooting conditions/situations. I know similar information may have been posted, and these are just suggestions.
I have been doing a variation of this, but did not think to use the EV compensation. I was just adjusting either the f stop or shutter speed.

Thank you!
10-21-2015, 05:39 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by nonstopnick Quote
I have been doing a variation of this, but did not think to use the EV compensation. I was just adjusting either the f stop or shutter speed.

Thank you!
In manual mode, what you're doing is essentially the same thing, nonstopnick, and the advantage is that in the heat of battle, you understand right away which variable of the exposure triangle you're varying, and its consequences for that shot.
10-22-2015, 12:24 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by nonstopnick Quote
I have been doing a variation of this, but did not think to use the EV compensation. I was just adjusting either the f stop or shutter speed.

Thank you!
You're welcome.

Here is a little bit more information.

You can use the EV along with the F stop and Shutter Speed. It is available to you to try make adjustments along with them. In the examples I mentioned, I really have used the EV. One day when I was not very familiar with it I noticed a Cedar Waxwing (bird) inside sort of a bunch of leafy trees. I was trying my F Stop adjustment only at first (like a person would have done on a film camera), then I thought I would try the EV (a plus, for ex. +.3 or +.7). When I tried it I noticed the lighting in the picture was lightening the shadows where the bird was. Since then I have tried using EV in many different situations, and it really can be of use as I mentioned in the examples.

The F Stop is always an available option, but the EV is also available for adjustment also without changing the F Stop itself. The use of EV with flowers example I mentioned takes advantage of the EV to reduce ISO depending on what extreme you use it to (to lighten or darken). You may recall some day when you were out shooting and a brightly lit flower was getting all kinds of sun. If you use negative EV at the desired F Stop for depth you want, and shutter speed you want, it will reduce the glare effect to a point where you can recognize those features of the flower that otherwise might have been throwing the bright light on each other. F Stop and Shutter Speed are sort of basis along with the ISO, and the EV is another addition which you may/can use along with them as a companion if needed.

I will give you another example. This is real, noting some of the settings I used. I saw a Great Blue Heron on the branch of a dead tree in the shore area of a lake recently. I set my F Stop to F13 to get depth/contrast and Shutter Speed to 320 to pick up any quick movement because it would sometimes clean or move its feet. When the sun was brightly shining on it I would use minus EV (ex. -.3, -.7, or -1). That would eliminate the glare from the sun and the features of the Heron were visible with detail. Then the sun was going behind clouds and the darkness was falling upon the Heron. I then kept my F Stop in the F11 or F13 range (preferably F13 for depth), kept the Shutter Speed 320, and used plus EV (ex. +.3, +.7, or +1) to lighten the Heron. That allowed the visible detail of the Heron to be lightened despite the darkness that was shed upon it, and I also was able to keep the F11 or F13 F Stop and the 320 Shutter Speed to catch any movement when the Heron was on the branch.

10-22-2015, 09:44 PM   #20
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^^^ this is good stuff I will use, thank you for taking the time write and post this. I would love to see some of your work.
10-23-2015, 10:05 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by nonstopnick Quote
^^^ this is good stuff I will ushttps://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/newattachment.php?do=manageattach&p=#e, thank you for taking the time write and post this. I would love to see some of your work.
You're welcome.

Here is an image of the Heron, and a crop of the same picture. I have resized them in Paint to reduce their byte size for posting, so if you zoom they may not have the same pixel quality as the original. Just examples. I was using TAV mode. Settings were F13, 320 Shutter Speed, 320 ISO, and +.7 EV. I was using my K-3 II and Sigma 150-500.
Attached Images
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PENTAX K-3 II  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-3 II  Photo 

Last edited by C_Jones; 10-23-2015 at 10:13 AM.
10-23-2015, 11:38 AM   #22
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^^^ Very Nice ^^^ Thank you!
10-23-2015, 12:23 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by nonstopnick Quote
^^^ Very Nice ^^^ Thank you!
I usually use the Spot metering mode. I had recently purchased a Pentax 16-85 and used the K-3II to test it out, not using Spot mode for testing. Afterward I placed the K-3II on my Sigma 150-500 and had not realized that I had not switched the metering back to Spot (which I like for tracking). So that is why in the EXIF data of the images I posted it reads "Pattern" instead of "Spot" which I usually use.

Just wanted to note that.

Thanks for the compliment.

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