Technique for capturing Photos for HDR- Blurry photos

jaywes · 10-20-2015, 12:29 PM

My current process utilizes my k-5 with sigma 10-20 using AEB. This particular shoot I captured images at f11, 5 shots 1.5 stops apart each on tripod. Delayed shutter (2-3sec I believe with AEB). Each shot seems a little blurry. I'm not sure whats going on.

Is there a better technique for capturing photos for HDR? or is this faulty lens/camera? Does it appear like tripod is shaking?

FIRST SHOT IS BASE SHOT. SECOND IS HDR OF 5 IMAGES.

Thanks in advance.

**boriscleto** · 10-20-2015, 12:34 PM

Things are being moved by the wind...

Any technique that involves multiple exposures is goimg to be susceptible to this.

It can be mitigated by using software to align the images.

johngs · 10-20-2015, 12:44 PM

Do you turn off shake reduction when you use a tripod? I believe you should.

jaywes · 10-20-2015, 01:49 PM

Thanks for responding.

Originally posted by boriscleto

Things are being moved by the wind...

Any technique that involves multiple exposures is goimg to be susceptible to this.

It can be mitigated by using software to align the images.

I set PS to align images. However, the wind isn't swaying the building therefore, it should be sharp.

Originally posted by johngs

Do you turn off shake reduction when you use a tripod? I believe you should.

Yup. Automatic Exposure Bracketing (AEB) automatically turns it off.

**blackcloudbrew** · 10-20-2015, 03:02 PM

It sounds like you are using PhotoShop to create your HDR images. I'm personally not a fan of this software for HDR. I suggest you look at other options such as Photomatix from HDR soft or HDR Efex by Nik. They have better alignment tools, however, no alignment tool is perfect. For the above image, the technique looks ok, that would not be my choice of a resultant image though as it looks washed out. Given your setup, I suggest you try to combine 3 images not 5 (0, -1.5, +1.5) and see what you get from that. It does look a bit like you are getting a little ghosting in the leaves. However, the building - to me - looks sharp. Also, are you producing your HDR from raw files or jpegs? That may not have anything to do with sharpness but it can produce better HDR images.

Personally, I will say that when I do HDR (and I've been doing it for a while now [2008], I expect some loss in sharpness although I'm happy when it doesn't happen as well. One thing to consider is your starting shutter speed. You want it high (as you can) particularly when you are doing 5 images, even on a tripod.

jaywes · 10-20-2015, 06:19 PM

Originally posted by blackcloudbrew

It sounds like you are using PhotoShop to create your HDR images. I'm personally not a fan of this software for HDR. I suggest you look at other options such as Photomatix from HDR soft or HDR Efex by Nik. They have better alignment tools, however, no alignment tool is perfect. For the above image, the technique looks ok, that would not be my choice of a resultant image though as it looks washed out. Given your setup, I suggest you try to combine 3 images not 5 (0, -1.5, +1.5) and see what you get from that. It does look a bit like you are getting a little ghosting in the leaves. However, the building - to me - looks sharp. Also, are you producing your HDR from raw files or jpegs? That may not have anything to do with sharpness but it can produce better HDR images.

Personally, I will say that when I do HDR (and I've been doing it for a while now [2008], I expect some loss in sharpness although I'm happy when it doesn't happen as well. One thing to consider is your starting shutter speed. You want it high (as you can) particularly when you are doing 5 images, even on a tripod.

Thank you for the advice. I will check out the better software. This shot was the first of the bunch. Documenting mostly but wanted to try capturing for HDR. It's hard with downsizing for web but definitely a lot of sharpness lose even with raw files. I will shoot it again if software change doesn't yeild a better product. I didn't pay as much to shutter speed as I should have. I let it go. Much appreciated.

**Canada_Rockies** · 10-20-2015, 06:58 PM

My favouite technique in Photomatix is Highlight & Shadow.

stevebrot · 10-20-2015, 07:58 PM

Originally posted by blackcloudbrew

I suggest you look at other options such as Photomatix from HDR soft or HDR Efex by Nik.

...or even HDRMerge (Free).

Steve

dcumpian · 10-21-2015, 06:40 AM

+1 to the Photomatix advice (I've never tried HDRMerge, so can't comment on that one). The better software can eliminate "ghosting" based on your selection, or by using one image as the "master". Alignment is also typically much better.

It is difficult to tell whether your image is actually blurry or simply lacking in contrast.

Regards,
Dan

jaywes · 10-25-2015, 07:15 PM

Thank you all for the advice.

**Rondec** · 10-26-2015, 03:24 AM - **1 Like**

I like HDR Efex and Photomatix. I don't really think your photo needs HDR treatment though. I find it most useful in situations where I need to capture maximal dynamic range.

Earlier this year I shot a series of three shots and edited them in Lightroom just with manipulation of sliders, Photomatix and HDR Efex. These were the results.

Single Lightroom Image:

HDR Efex

Photomatix.

With all of these programs you can choose how surreal to make your image. I usually try to avoid pushing thing to unnatural levels.

By the way, I hope you don't mind my mentioning that you have some dirt on your sensor...

DeadJohn · 10-26-2015, 06:58 AM

@Rondec, can you repeat the above comparison with Lightroom's new HDR merge feature?

**Rondec** · 10-26-2015, 07:45 AM

Originally posted by DeadJohn

@Rondec, can you repeat the above comparison with Lightroom's new HDR merge feature?

I'm still on Lightroom 5 and I don't think that feature exists for it. I might try another comparison down the road, but my preference in general is to use a single photo shot at low iso usually underexposed by a stop, bump shadows and exposure and then apply a GND to the sky. It takes about thirty seconds and is quicker than any of the other options. The biggest problem with it is that it can introduce quite a bit of noise into the image.

Most images that I post are processed in this fashion. I only use Photomatix when I need more detail in the shadows than I can get from a single image.

DeadJohn · 10-26-2015, 09:13 AM

Originally posted by Rondec

SNIPPED FOR BREVITY ... my preference in general is to use a single photo shot at low iso usually underexposed by a stop, bump shadows and exposure ... Most images that I post are processed in this fashion. I only use Photomatix when I need more detail in the shadows than I can get from a single image.

I do similar with a single exposure. The K-5 sensor does a good job capturing shadow detail and as long as I don't blow highlights too much slider adjustments can do a good job. Sometimes, though, the lighting is really bad. I was hiking this weekend, weather was cloudy but those clouds were thin enough to be very bright, while some cliff faces and fall foliage were heavily shadowed.

I took a few bracketed exposures on my hike as a processing exercise. I plan to compare what I can pull from a single exposure vs. Lightroom HDR, Photoshop layers, and maybe other software.

Your sample images are pleasing. I especially like the HDR Efex sky. The distant trees look soft, likely due to the f2.0 aperture (to get a good handheld shutter speed) rather than HDR artifacts.

**boriscleto** · 10-26-2015, 04:41 PM

Originally posted by DeadJohn

I do similar with a single exposure. The K-5 sensor does a good job capturing shadow detail and as long as I don't blow highlights too much slider adjustments can do a good job. Sometimes, though, the lighting is really bad. I was hiking this weekend, weather was cloudy but those clouds were thin enough to be very bright, while some cliff faces and fall foliage were heavily shadowed.

5 shot HDR merge in Lightroom.

Single Frame.

10-20-2015, 12:29 PM	#1
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235	Technique for capturing Photos for HDR- Blurry photos My current process utilizes my k-5 with sigma 10-20 using AEB. This particular shoot I captured images at f11, 5 shots 1.5 stops apart each on tripod. Delayed shutter (2-3sec I believe with AEB). Each shot seems a little blurry. I'm not sure whats going on. Is there a better technique for capturing photos for HDR? or is this faulty lens/camera? Does it appear like tripod is shaking? FIRST SHOT IS BASE SHOT. SECOND IS HDR OF 5 IMAGES. Thanks in advance.

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10-20-2015, 12:34 PM	#2
boriscleto Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: North Syracuse, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,477	Things are being moved by the wind... Any technique that involves multiple exposures is goimg to be susceptible to this. It can be mitigated by using software to align the images.

10-20-2015, 12:44 PM	#3
johngs Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posts: 229	Do you turn off shake reduction when you use a tripod? I believe you should.

10-20-2015, 01:49 PM	#4
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235 Original Poster	Thanks for responding. Originally posted by boriscleto Things are being moved by the wind... Any technique that involves multiple exposures is goimg to be susceptible to this. It can be mitigated by using software to align the images. I set PS to align images. However, the wind isn't swaying the building therefore, it should be sharp. Originally posted by johngs Do you turn off shake reduction when you use a tripod? I believe you should. Yup. Automatic Exposure Bracketing (AEB) automatically turns it off.

10-20-2015, 03:02 PM	#5
blackcloudbrew Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Cotati, California USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,461	It sounds like you are using PhotoShop to create your HDR images. I'm personally not a fan of this software for HDR. I suggest you look at other options such as Photomatix from HDR soft or HDR Efex by Nik. They have better alignment tools, however, no alignment tool is perfect. For the above image, the technique looks ok, that would not be my choice of a resultant image though as it looks washed out. Given your setup, I suggest you try to combine 3 images not 5 (0, -1.5, +1.5) and see what you get from that. It does look a bit like you are getting a little ghosting in the leaves. However, the building - to me - looks sharp. Also, are you producing your HDR from raw files or jpegs? That may not have anything to do with sharpness but it can produce better HDR images. Personally, I will say that when I do HDR (and I've been doing it for a while now [2008], I expect some loss in sharpness although I'm happy when it doesn't happen as well. One thing to consider is your starting shutter speed. You want it high (as you can) particularly when you are doing 5 images, even on a tripod.

10-20-2015, 06:19 PM	#6
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235 Original Poster	Originally posted by blackcloudbrew It sounds like you are using PhotoShop to create your HDR images. I'm personally not a fan of this software for HDR. I suggest you look at other options such as Photomatix from HDR soft or HDR Efex by Nik. They have better alignment tools, however, no alignment tool is perfect. For the above image, the technique looks ok, that would not be my choice of a resultant image though as it looks washed out. Given your setup, I suggest you try to combine 3 images not 5 (0, -1.5, +1.5) and see what you get from that. It does look a bit like you are getting a little ghosting in the leaves. However, the building - to me - looks sharp. Also, are you producing your HDR from raw files or jpegs? That may not have anything to do with sharpness but it can produce better HDR images. Personally, I will say that when I do HDR (and I've been doing it for a while now [2008], I expect some loss in sharpness although I'm happy when it doesn't happen as well. One thing to consider is your starting shutter speed. You want it high (as you can) particularly when you are doing 5 images, even on a tripod. Thank you for the advice. I will check out the better software. This shot was the first of the bunch. Documenting mostly but wanted to try capturing for HDR. It's hard with downsizing for web but definitely a lot of sharpness lose even with raw files. I will shoot it again if software change doesn't yeild a better product. I didn't pay as much to shutter speed as I should have. I let it go. Much appreciated.

10-20-2015, 06:58 PM	#7
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	My favouite technique in Photomatix is Highlight & Shadow.

10-20-2015, 07:58 PM	#8
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by blackcloudbrew I suggest you look at other options such as Photomatix from HDR soft or HDR Efex by Nik. ...or even HDRMerge (Free). Steve

10-21-2015, 06:40 AM	#9
dcumpian Forum Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: King William, VA Posts: 83	+1 to the Photomatix advice (I've never tried HDRMerge, so can't comment on that one). The better software can eliminate "ghosting" based on your selection, or by using one image as the "master". Alignment is also typically much better. It is difficult to tell whether your image is actually blurry or simply lacking in contrast. Regards, Dan

10-25-2015, 07:15 PM	#10
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235 Original Poster	Thank you all for the advice.

10-26-2015, 03:24 AM - 1 Like	#11
Rondec Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gladys, Virginia Photos: Gallery Posts: 27,666	I like HDR Efex and Photomatix. I don't really think your photo needs HDR treatment though. I find it most useful in situations where I need to capture maximal dynamic range. Earlier this year I shot a series of three shots and edited them in Lightroom just with manipulation of sliders, Photomatix and HDR Efex. These were the results. Single Lightroom Image: HDR Efex Photomatix. With all of these programs you can choose how surreal to make your image. I usually try to avoid pushing thing to unnatural levels. By the way, I hope you don't mind my mentioning that you have some dirt on your sensor...

10-26-2015, 06:58 AM	#12
DeadJohn Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New York Posts: 4,834	@Rondec, can you repeat the above comparison with Lightroom's new HDR merge feature?

10-26-2015, 07:45 AM	#13
Rondec Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gladys, Virginia Photos: Gallery Posts: 27,666	Originally posted by DeadJohn @Rondec, can you repeat the above comparison with Lightroom's new HDR merge feature? I'm still on Lightroom 5 and I don't think that feature exists for it. I might try another comparison down the road, but my preference in general is to use a single photo shot at low iso usually underexposed by a stop, bump shadows and exposure and then apply a GND to the sky. It takes about thirty seconds and is quicker than any of the other options. The biggest problem with it is that it can introduce quite a bit of noise into the image. Most images that I post are processed in this fashion. I only use Photomatix when I need more detail in the shadows than I can get from a single image.

10-26-2015, 09:13 AM	#14
DeadJohn Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New York Posts: 4,834	Originally posted by Rondec SNIPPED FOR BREVITY ... my preference in general is to use a single photo shot at low iso usually underexposed by a stop, bump shadows and exposure ... Most images that I post are processed in this fashion. I only use Photomatix when I need more detail in the shadows than I can get from a single image. I do similar with a single exposure. The K-5 sensor does a good job capturing shadow detail and as long as I don't blow highlights too much slider adjustments can do a good job. Sometimes, though, the lighting is really bad. I was hiking this weekend, weather was cloudy but those clouds were thin enough to be very bright, while some cliff faces and fall foliage were heavily shadowed. I took a few bracketed exposures on my hike as a processing exercise. I plan to compare what I can pull from a single exposure vs. Lightroom HDR, Photoshop layers, and maybe other software. Your sample images are pleasing. I especially like the HDR Efex sky. The distant trees look soft, likely due to the f2.0 aperture (to get a good handheld shutter speed) rather than HDR artifacts.

10-26-2015, 04:41 PM	#15
boriscleto Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: North Syracuse, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,477	Originally posted by DeadJohn I do similar with a single exposure. The K-5 sensor does a good job capturing shadow detail and as long as I don't blow highlights too much slider adjustments can do a good job. Sometimes, though, the lighting is really bad. I was hiking this weekend, weather was cloudy but those clouds were thin enough to be very bright, while some cliff faces and fall foliage were heavily shadowed. 5 shot HDR merge in Lightroom. Single Frame.