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11-05-2015, 09:52 AM   #1
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K50 sr question

I never seem to be able to shoot with anything less than 1.5 of the fl while handheld. I'm not sure if this is normal or not but I've seen pictures where people have shot 60ss at 150mm. I can't even do 150 SS at 150mm. So I was wondering if maybe my sr isn't working properly or if that's just how it is. I don't think I'm that shaky while holding the camera. Even my 35mm I have to shoot at 50 to get a sharp image. So if anyone has any advice or info, I'd appreciate it. Thanks

11-05-2015, 09:53 AM   #2
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Are they using a tripod....
11-05-2015, 10:01 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by bertwert Quote
Are they using a tripod....
No. I think it was on Facebook and it said "handheld". I could see you'd have to be very steady for that but I'd be happy using 150 ss at 150mm.
11-05-2015, 10:02 AM   #4
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I routinely shot at less than 1/focal length with my k50 handheld. Can you post some examples shot at various shutter speeds with full exif intact?

11-05-2015, 10:07 AM   #5
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Leaning against a tree, arms cradled into body will help with stabilizing images.
11-05-2015, 10:09 AM   #6
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I'm at work now but when I get home I'll post some pics. And leaning against a tree or something does help but unfortunately it's not always an option.
11-05-2015, 10:13 AM   #7
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What do you shoot exactly ? If your subject isn't static, SR couldn't be used as a substitute for shutter speed...
11-05-2015, 10:13 AM   #8
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Something to keep in mind- you're able to view your own photos at 100% but you're limited to looking at photos on Facebook at the resolution they're posted. This lets you be much more critical of your own stuff.

11-05-2015, 10:15 AM - 1 Like   #9
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I know there's a forum article on handholding techniques by Heie, but I get lost in the articles section. The rules of thumb don't mean everyone will be exactly the same. Technique and practice will help everyone.

A scene with small bright points, like stars, distant streetlights at night, reflections off cars, etc. make camera motion more obvious. Take shots at slower and slower shutter speeds to see when those bright points become streaks. Then try again, holding the camera better.
11-05-2015, 10:16 AM   #10
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Even with shake reduction, you need to try to keep the camera as still as possible if you want to break the 1/fl rule. I've gotten razor-sharp 1/3s and 1/4s handhelds with my K-3 at around 30mm or so, but only when taking care to make sure my holding technique was good.

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11-05-2015, 10:17 AM   #11
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Here's the article:
Making the Most of Long Exposure Handhelds - Introduction - In-Depth Articles

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11-05-2015, 10:20 AM   #12
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Beat me to it.
11-05-2015, 11:02 AM - 2 Likes   #13
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After reading that article, I'd say the problem is me. I know I rock forward and back as well as side to side. So if I'm shooting 150 mm at 2.8, I could just be moving in and out of the DOF enough to mess it up. That in combination with the lens moving around in a circular motion is just too much for the sr. I'll take some shots after work and try some things. I'll post the results this evening.
11-06-2015, 01:36 PM - 2 Likes   #14
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Regarding shake reduction, technique is everything.

I do not claim to do this often, but please see the attached photos

the first shot is from the K7 using the 1.7x AFA and the K300/4 at ISO 1600,

and 100% crop of the head


Technique is everything in this, but here is how I did it.

Hold camera in one hand with the left hand extended to the front of the lens, elbows tight against your rib cage. Stand with feet about 18 inches apart, one slightly back of the other, and breath out slowly pressing the shutter when you have let out about 1/2 your normal breath

This shot was taken that way free standing with a 500mm lens at 1/40, you need to continually hold the shutter button 1/2 way done focusing and metering to keep shake reduction active. SR does really , really work.

As for the technique practice, practice, practice
11-07-2015, 07:31 AM - 2 Likes   #15
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So apparently my technique was the whole problem. Honestly I'm completely surprised that I could improve the results as much as I did just by holding the camera differently and slowing down a bit. So thanks for posting that guide. I still need to practice a bit more but I was shooting 150mm at 100ss with now problems. So I'm glad this was such a simple fix. Thanks again everyone.
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