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02-25-2016, 09:46 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by dangleabols Quote
k-30 is a fantastic camera, but modern dslrs are complicated and powerful tools, the k-30 is no exception. There is going to be a lot of learning required to get the hang of it.

As you are looking at using old lenses, does the following web page help?

using k-30 with older lenses | ricoh imaging support
big help,thank-you.

02-25-2016, 09:48 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by jimc1101 Quote
what exactly are the problems you are having ? I have had a k-30 since 2012 and have never had a problem. You are not able to use on manuel, exactly what does that mean ? I would suggest that you use in auto or at least p mode to get started until you move to manual mode, unless you set up the menus differently, once you are in m mode, press the green button and it will meter correctly for the most part and you can then change aperture and shutter speed to change as you want. Suggestion would be not to be so disappointed after a couple pictures. Read the manual, use p or auto mode to start just to see what aperture/shutter speeds that the camera is selecting and you can see how your pictures look based on that and change in m mode as you go.

The k-30 is a great camera. I always think about upgrading but i get great pics from it so i keep asking myself why to upgrade if i love what it produces. If you get pictures that you did not expect, post a copy here and we can give you suggestions on what is going on.
thank-you.i'm going through the helps i've received & surely
get back with my pics.

---------- Post added 02-25-16 at 05:51 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by kiwi_jono Quote
agree with previous comments.

May i suggest some things:
1. To start with put it in program "p" mode for a while. Due to the great program mode pentax has, you can still control pretty much everything and its easier to start with.
2. Then read through the manual over a few nights
3. Ask questions here - people are really helpful
thank-you.......u r very kind.

---------- Post added 02-25-16 at 05:56 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Edgar_in_Indy Quote
If you can't figure out the K-30, then you're not going to have an easier time with any other DSLR. For the most part, they all work the same way. But if you ask a more specific question, I am sure you will get a lot of help. The K-30 is an incredible camera, and one of the best values in photography, so it would be a shame to write it off so quickly.
THKS FOR YOUR INPUT.
THE LENS I HAVE ARE........1.)28mm,2.)50 mm & 3.)80-200mm lenses.
I JUST TO WORK HARDER,WHICH I HAVEN'T DONE...YET.

---------- Post added 02-25-16 at 05:58 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
you have the option of using it just like a point-and-shoot, bankatbull.

If you want to learn photography, there must be a course you can do in valetta or a club you can join.
thks 4 d suggestion..i will.
Valletta.....i'll post some soon.
Rgds
victor-malta

---------- Post added 02-25-16 at 06:02 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by luftfluss Quote
definitely check out the link that dangleabols posted.

If you list the lenses you have available, we might be able to offer more specific help.
thk-u....
I did.
I just have to keep it handy.
Rgds
victor
02-25-2016, 02:30 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by blacknight659 Quote
k-30 is perfectly capable and you will learn it well. Once you understand how pentax does things, you will feel that everyone else does it wrong lol. Hang in there, you will get it.
kind words,thank-you.
I'll have to try harder.
Rgds
victor,malta
02-25-2016, 03:11 PM   #19
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One inexpensive modern lens might help you learn the basic camera use before adding the complexity of manual lenses. Either the DA 50/1.8 or DA 35 2.4 can be had for around $100 if that sounds like something you could do.

02-25-2016, 11:35 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattb123 Quote
One inexpensive modern lens might help you learn the basic camera use before adding the complexity of manual lenses. Either the DA 50/1.8 or DA 35 2.4 can be had for around $100 if that sounds like something you could do.
I second this. If you have no modern autofocus lenses; the da 35mm f2.4 is worth a shout. It's cheap and on the k30 it will behave similar to a 50mm lens on a 35mm film camera.
02-26-2016, 01:11 AM   #21
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I've been using 2 K-30 bodies over a span of 2-3 years, mostly for weddings but also for portraits and other stuff. Both bodies are pretty worn now and when I started to look for replacements, K-30 was the first camera I looked for. Sadly it had been discontinued for some time and was nowhere to be found in the shops.

Give it a chance - I'm sure you'll come to love it.
02-26-2016, 04:14 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattb123 Quote
one inexpensive modern lens might help you learn the basic camera use before adding the complexity of manual lenses. Either the da 50/1.8 or da 35 2.4 can be had for around $100 if that sounds like something you could do.
thks 4 d suggestion.we'll look into it.
Rgds
v

---------- Post added 02-26-16 at 12:15 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by dangleabols Quote
i second this. If you have no modern autofocus lenses; the da 35mm f2.4 is worth a shout. It's cheap and on the k30 it will behave similar to a 50mm lens on a 35mm film camera.
thks..o.k.
I'll experiment with these lenses.
Rgds

v
02-27-2016, 02:34 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by dangleabols Quote
i second this. If you have no modern autofocus lenses; the da 35mm f2.4 is worth a shout. It's cheap and on the k30 it will behave similar to a 50mm lens on a 35mm film camera.
i'll try this........soon.i need to get one of these lenses.

02-28-2016, 06:39 PM - 1 Like   #24
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I have to agree with the general consensus here, I've put just under 80,000 shots on a K30, fantastic camera. I also use almost exclusively manual lenses, including the same 50mm and 28mm you have. The only auto lens I have is the 18 - 55mm kit lens, which I rarely touch.

Go through the menu and find the setting to allow the aperture ring, from there it works juts like the ME Super with even more control over the exposure. I can't remember, it's been 20 years since I used mine, but I think the ME Super ran in Aperture Priority mode, with no full manual like the ME had, that was the only difference. I had both. That meant in Auto mode it would set the shutter speed for you according to what aperture you used. I prefer full manual actually...

Put the K30 in Manual mode, the green button will set the exposure pretty close, or mine does, take a test shot then adjust the shutter speed (front thumbwheel) to fine tune it. The rear thumbwheel won't do anything in Manual mode, except zoom in on pictures when you review. Just remember every time you change aperture you also have to reset the exposure, it works almost exactly like a film camera.

If you set it to Aperture Priority mode, Av, and use the green button, it should act almost exactly like the ME Super. (I might be thinking of the ME though, I can't remember for sure) I use Av mode sometimes on cloudy days with wind when the light changes every couple of minutes.

If you want to see what the K30 can do, I'm pretty sure several of those who already posted have plenty shots uploaded, and my Flickr account is in my signature, any of the first 6 or 8 pages were all taken with the K30 and manual lenses, exactly what you're trying to do, and some with the same lenses. Almost all are in full manual mode.

As the first response said, it's not the camera, the problem is standing behind it. That's not meant to be an insult or put down, just a fact.
02-28-2016, 07:48 PM   #25
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It could be there is a problem with the camera. Shooting manual with the k30 should be as easy as shooting manual with the ME Super. Well almost as easy...
02-29-2016, 08:11 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by hjoseph7 Quote
It could be there is a problem with the camera. Shooting manual with the k30 should be as easy as shooting manual with the ME Super. Well almost as easy...
The trouble may be that shooting manual on an older camera was using a large set of its features where shooting manual on a k-30 is to limit the features available to some degree.

I have 2 manual lenses but to be honest I rarely use them out of doors or when hand held. The Pentax f1.7 50mm is, however, extremely sharp when you get the focus right.
02-29-2016, 10:20 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by paleo pete Quote
i have to agree with the general consensus here, i've put just under 80,000 shots on a k30, fantastic camera. I also use almost exclusively manual lenses, including the same 50mm and 28mm you have. The only auto lens i have is the 18 - 55mm kit lens, which i rarely touch.

Go through the menu and find the setting to allow the aperture ring, from there it works juts like the me super with even more control over the exposure. I can't remember, it's been 20 years since i used mine, but i think the me super ran in aperture priority mode, with no full manual like the me had, that was the only difference. I had both. That meant in auto mode it would set the shutter speed for you according to what aperture you used. I prefer full manual actually...

Put the k30 in manual mode, the green button will set the exposure pretty close, or mine does, take a test shot then adjust the shutter speed (front thumbwheel) to fine tune it. The rear thumbwheel won't do anything in manual mode, except zoom in on pictures when you review. Just remember every time you change aperture you also have to reset the exposure, it works almost exactly like a film camera.

If you set it to aperture priority mode, av, and use the green button, it should act almost exactly like the me super. (i might be thinking of the me though, i can't remember for sure) i use av mode sometimes on cloudy days with wind when the light changes every couple of minutes.

If you want to see what the k30 can do, i'm pretty sure several of those who already posted have plenty shots uploaded, and my flickr account is in my signature, any of the first 6 or 8 pages were all taken with the k30 and manual lenses, exactly what you're trying to do, and some with the same lenses. Almost all are in full manual mode.

As the first response said, it's not the camera, the problem is standing behind it. That's not meant to be an insult or put down, just a fact.
hello sir & thank-you for your response.and i'm sure you are all right.
I'll wait for better weather & i'll post pics.
Keep you posted.
In the meantime,i'll be glad to share you thoughts with me.
Rgds

v
02-29-2016, 11:33 AM - 1 Like   #28
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It's not always easy but you are at the right place here at PForums to get advice and learn.....takes a little time, but is well worth it. If you do you can get an Award like this for studying hard.....




If not....you may end up with this...no one wants this!


Best Regards & Good Luck!
03-01-2016, 05:52 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by rupert Quote
it's not always easy but you are at the right place here at pforums to get advice and learn.....takes a little time, but is well worth it. If you do you can get an award like this for studying hard.....




if not....you may end up with this...no one wants this!


best regards & good luck!
hi & thks for your"contribution".
Would you be so kind to be more specif to the cause at hand ,pls.
Once again,thks-u.
Rgds
v
03-01-2016, 12:14 PM - 5 Likes   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by BANKatBULL Quote
...Would you be so kind to be more specif to the cause at hand ,pls...
I was going to ask you the same question, because your issue seems pretty vague, so our answers are also vague. It's hard to tell if you are doing something wrong or the camera is.

Just to show how easy it is to do something wrong, I took these examples from my latest trip photos. I have a lot of experience but anyone can screw up or go beyond the limits of the camera. I think these represent the most common problems.

Focus problems and narrow depth of field:

This was a failed attempt to be artistic but a good example of bad focus. You can tell where the focus point is, and where it isn't. The out of focus areas don't show motion blur or camera movement. This is not autofocus failure - I focused manually, but I didn't look carefully enough at the viewfinder to get the parts I wanted in focus.

Subject motion (slow shutter speed):

The shutter speed is 1 second, so the fixed objects are sharp and moving objects are blurry. You can see moving stuff in all parts of the frame, so it's not a focus issue. Sharp stationary objects mean it's not camera movement. You can see some people are still enough even over one second. Also in a wide angle shot, distant motion doesn't look as blurry as close motion.

Camera motion (slow shutter speed)

The classic sign of camera motion is that everything looks shifted in one direction. If the shot has bright points of light, it's easier to spot. You can see that the building just looks blurry but the lights show you why. I was bracing the camera on a railing and shutter speed was 10 seconds. I took several shots because I knew 10 seconds was very optimistic, hoping to hold the camera still in at least one.

Overexposure:

When a digital sensor overexposes, you can't see or recover any detail in the image. That part just stays white, even if you darken the rest of the shot. This shot is not quite ruined, but it's so bright that parts must be overexposed. I should have noticed this and taken another shot at different settings.

Overexposure in just one channel, plus camera tilt:

The sensor has only 25% red pixels, 25% blue pixels and 50% green pixels. The meter (except in the K3) doesn't see color. In this shot, the blue stage lighting caused the blue channel to overexpose. You can see this before shooting by looking for a solid bright red or blue with lots of darker area in the shot. Neon, city lights, stage, etc. are obvious, but watch for flowers too, because the green foliage is darker than you think. You may see a lack of detail in the red or blue after taking the shot. The camera has an RGB histogram that shows each channel, also useful. In this case, I knew the blue channel was likely to overexpose but wasn't concerned because the stage wall wasn't important. However, I did not pay attention to holding the camera properly and tilted the shot by almost 3 degrees, which is bad.

Underexposure:

The shot is obviously too dark. The camera's meter may have been fooled by the patch of sky at the top. Watch for this because if you didn't really care about that sky being overexposed, you might not get any detail in the important parts of the shot. This shot can actually be processed to look fine. Underexposure is hardly an issue with the K-30 and similar Pentaxes.

Lens flare:

The big splash of light coming from the left is one type of flare. I was using the lens hood but it wasn't enough - on zoom lenses, the hood is a compromise and won't help all the time. This is also visible through the viewfinder when shooting so mostly my fault. Flare can also be bright colored spots or a trail of reflections from each lens element.

Finger in the shot:

My lame excuse is that the lens is very wide but come on, I should have seen that in the viewfinder.

A lot of these mistakes can be avoided by seeing them in the viewfinder first. The rest are predictable by some experience. They all could have been seen right in the field after taking the shot.
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