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04-04-2016, 05:44 PM   #1
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D-LI90P battery

I have two D-LI90P batteries since 2012. I was using it with K-5. The manufacture date was 2011 and 2012. Im not sure if I can use these batteries for K-1 later on. Where and how can I check the battery condition?

04-04-2016, 05:50 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by rlatjsrud Quote
I have two D-LI90P batteries since 2012. I was using it with K-5. The manufacture date was 2011 and 2012. Im not sure if I can use these batteries for K-1 later on. Where and how can I check the battery condition?
They should work unless you've put them through an unusually high number of cycles. Have you noticed any significant degradation in battery life?

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04-04-2016, 06:05 PM   #3
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The best way to test the battery would be to charge the cell, test its voltage with a multimeter & record the number of snaps you get with it.

In my experience, a freshly-charged D-Li109 should hold about 8.3V or so. If your reading is significantly lower than this, it's more than likely a dying cell.

I will say that the OEM battery seems to, on average, shoot more photographs than the backup generics I bought to fill out my kit. The aftermarket batteries charge just fine on the OEM charger, but even with twice the advertised cell capacity (2100mAh versus 1050mAh), they seem to last about 60% as long as the OEM cell.
04-04-2016, 07:44 PM   #4
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There's a big difference between the D-LI90P and the D-Li109. With the 109 I agree that aftermarket batteries have not given me the performance I expected, especially at cold (-5F - 5F) temperature performance.

With the aftermarket 190s, however, I have not found any significant difference in performance, even in extreme cold (-25+F).

You speak of the batteries you have as if you are not currently using them. Is this so? Either way, charge them up and see if they are good to go. At the worst, you have some dead batteries. Four years is a long shelf life, but if they've been well cared for, they should be fine. I have batteries in circulation that are easily that old.

04-04-2016, 08:25 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Architecture Quote
The best way to test the battery would be to charge the cell, test its voltage with a multimeter & record the number of snaps you get with it.

In my experience, a freshly-charged D-Li109 should hold about 8.3V or so. If your reading is significantly lower than this, it's more than likely a dying cell.
A multimeter alone does absolutely no good for Testing a battery. Any battery.
Batteries must be tested under a load. Once the load has been removed, the battery will slowly recover its voltage. A battery can be pretty much totally discharged, and still have a voltage close to its rated Voltage.

There are several articles on how batteries work and how to test them at https://www.eevblog.com/batteries-charging/

This guy is an Electronics engineer, and he seems to know what he's talking about.
04-04-2016, 08:49 PM   #6
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If a cell won't hold it's charge, it won't exhibit the same voltage as a healthy cell. This is why I suggested recording the number of actuations in conjunction with testing its voltage.

If you pull a battery off your charger and instead of registering somewhere between 7.4V & 8.3V you get something like 3.5V, you have a dying battery.
04-04-2016, 10:54 PM   #7
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Even a battery that has a bad cell, may have sufficient voltage to indicate that it is good with a voltmeter. Only when a proper load is put on it will it show up as being bad. Watch the videos In the link that I provided. In one video he drains several batteries down to almost nothing, let them sit for a while, And without a load, the battery showed nearly full voltage. The internal resistance of the battery increases as the charge decreases. The voltage is still there, but the resistance is so high that it has no current capacity. that is why you need a load when testing batteries. Even in the few minutes it takes to remove the batteries from a device and then measure the voltage, the voltage can increase enough to make you believe that it is good when it is not.
04-04-2016, 11:01 PM   #8
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Can you tell me where I advised to only test the voltage? It's as if you haven't read what I've written.

04-05-2016, 08:13 AM - 1 Like   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by rlatjsrud Quote
I have two D-LI90P batteries since 2012. I was using it with K-5. The manufacture date was 2011 and 2012. Im not sure if I can use these batteries for K-1 later on. Where and how can I check the battery condition?

My short answer is - use your K-5. If the batteries work like they should there, they will work with the K-1
04-05-2016, 02:03 PM   #10
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It's good that Pentax seem to be using the same batteries with several models, K5 series, K3 series and the 645's at least. I also have a Hahnel and an Energiser which are good but cheaper than OEM.
04-05-2016, 08:54 PM - 1 Like   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Architecture Quote
If a cell won't hold it's charge, it won't exhibit the same voltage as a healthy cell. This is why I suggested recording the number of actuations in conjunction with testing its voltage.

If you pull a battery off your charger and instead of registering somewhere between 7.4V & 8.3V you get something like 3.5V, you have a dying battery.
Well I just tested by shooting 1000 images but the battery is still full. The battery was made in 2011. Hmmm quite impressive.
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