[MilkaSchokoHase87]

Hey Pentaxians,

I need some help. I did not know what to do anymore.

I have the O-GPS1 with K-3 for about 1,5 years and I tested it so many times.
On wide fields where nobody goes along - in the city - ... with tele lens - with standard lens - with wide angle -... nothing!
It just worked 1 Time !!!! for about 2hours.

What can I do right OR what should I put attention on.

How is it right to calibrate? Is there any or just ONE right way to calibrate?

I want to use it for astrotracer with Pentax 50mm f1.4, Sigma 18-35 f1.8 Art and maybe with Samyang 10mm f2.8 and Porst 135mm f1.8 or Pentax 200mm f2.5.

Are there any limitations in usage?!? Is the time limited like shooting stars without O-GPS1 ?!?

Please let me know you Pentaxian-Pro-knowledge before the stars come out again =).

If the answer was still given in a thread I did not know, please let me know that. We don´t need to discuss the same problem again.

Best regards and Thanks for all anseres,

Milka

[TER-OR]

If you just want to geotag your images you don't need to do the fine calibration. I usually did when in the field, then left the GPS on whether the camera is or not. I'll have to get used to the K3II now, and make sure the GPS is running. For the astrotracing and electronic compass function you'll want to calibrate. That was really fast when using the K5 with OGPS.

If you're having problems maybe there's something wrong with the unit? Maybe it doesn't like the batteries your using (grasping at straws there).

[FantasticMrFox]

What can I do right OR what should I put attention on.

Well ... what are you doing? Are you going through all the calibration steps carefully the way the manual is describing them? If so, then maybe your unit is faulty.

How is it right to calibrate? Is there any or just ONE right way to calibrate?

The way it says in the manual, or on the screen.

Are there any limitations in usage?!? Is the time limited like shooting stars without O-GPS1?!?

Yes, the sensor can only be shifted that much. I think the exposure time is limited to about 5 min. This can be lower depending on your position and focal length used, and after calibration the camera should tell you the maximum time it thinks will work.

[MilkaSchokoHase87]

Maybe it doesn't like the batteries your using

Read more at: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/318341-i...#ixzz459GKdrBp

I don´t know. I used several types of the AAA-Batteries available in Germany and I always used new ones.

---------- Post added 04-07-16 at 06:58 AM ----------

Well ... what are you doing? Are you going through all the calibration steps carefully the way the manual is describing them? If so, then maybe your unit is faulty.

I calibrate it like the screen. I rotate it overhead 180° first, than 180° horizontal and than 180° vertical (left to right).
Not always this way - I tried to switch the positions , but it does not work. Did I something wrong ?
It was working 1 Time, so I think it can work... but I´m not able to use it right

The way it says in the manual, or on the screen.

Like the screen, but I think it is the same in the manual, isn´t it?

Yes, the sensor can only be shifted that much. I think the exposure time is limited to about 5 min. This can be lower depending on your position and focal length used, and after calibration the camera should tell you the maximum time it thinks will work.

If I´m using Manual lenses, should I chose the focal length of the lens before calibration? Should I calibrate for each lens after chosing focal length? How is it with non-Pentax lenses? did the O-GPS1 accept these lenses at its algorithm?

[TER-OR]

If I´m using Manual lenses, should I chose the focal length of the lens before calibration? Should I calibrate for each lens after chosing focal length? How is it with non-Pentax lenses? did the O-GPS1 accept these lenses at its algorithm?

It doesn't know or care whose lenses you put on the camera. I'm not even sure it cares if you change lenses, most manual lenses have no communication with the camera (electronic communication). So yes, you'll need to enter the FL and recalibrate every time you change lenses with different FL. The GPS doesn't care about the lens. The camera very much does.

[mattt]

ummm overhead / side to side? could be translation but the motions are pivots around camera axis, not large movements.

[Quartermaster James]

I think I see your problem: if it is similar to the K-3ii, and every other GPS unit and electronic compass that I have used, then calibration is accomplished with a full, 360 degree, rotation around each axis; not just rocking the camera 180 degrees. Most of my devices want three or more full rotations around each axis, but the K-3ii doesn't allow enough time for that. I have no personal experience with the O-GPS1 unit.

Addendum: I stand corrected. According to Ricoh, 360 degrees is not required for the O-GPS1: Rotate the camera at least 180 degrees in three directions, as illustrated above. When the O-GPS1 is successfully calibrated, the letters "OK" will appear on the camera's LCD monitor. http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/products/o-gps1/calibration.html

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Last edited by Quartermaster James; 04-07-2016 at 11:01 AM.

[C_Jones]

At approximately 6:33 of the following video it shows how to do a precise calibration. When I do it I do complete revolutions in each direction. The complete rotations are what make a difference.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=pentax+gps+calibration&&view=detail&mid...94&FORM=VRDGAR

The following video is an even better demonstration, which really works.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=o-gps1+calibration&&view=detail&mid=FAFAFAD44F3149525326FAFAFAD44F3149525326&FORM=VRDGAR

[MostlyHarmless]

Calibration, I believe, is for the electronic compass and should only really affect the meta data showing which direction the camera was pointed - not the location (and of course it's needed for Astrotracer). I've found though that it takes a while to 'wake up' - if I turn the camera off, or let it go to sleep, I need to leave it for a few seconds before it'll record the location - so this might be worth checking. Incidentally, this is a right pain in practice and for me it's easier to use a separate GPS (Garmin eTrex 20) and post-sync the data from the GPX track (you lose the direction information). I do use Astrotracer from time to time, but even then it's often easier (and you get better results) to use shorter exposures and stacking software (you can use the interval timer then too) - it depends what you're doing. I understand, though am not sure, that the GPS in the K-3ii fixes these problems and you can use the interval timer (? am seriously considering getting one if true).

(Also, we shouldn't expect too much from Astrotracer - given that serious, obsessive, astro-photographers with lots of expensive and very heavy gear have a lot of trouble and a not-brilliant hit rate either, we need patience:-)

[mattt]

Here is one I cooked up....

Youtu.be

Youtu.be

[Not a Number]

The Ricoh page that Quartermaster James linked above has an embedded video:

You Tube

You Tube

[MilkaSchokoHase87]

Great Thanks to your attendance. I will try all the inspirations when the next clear sky is coming.
Maybe there is a little trick in calibration. If there is one - I will try to find him =). I will let you know =)

[MilkaSchokoHase87]

I have one more Question:
for working with manual lenses I have to add the focal length. Do I add the focal length of the lens (for example 50mm) or do I have to add the focal length with crop factor of 1.5 (for the 50mm its 75mm on 35mm equivalent) ????

Thanks for your answers.

[Quartermaster James]

The actual focal length. Forget you ever heard the words "crop factor! "

[MilkaSchokoHase87]

The actual focal length. Forget you ever heard the words "crop factor! "

thanks for the quick reply