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05-20-2016, 11:49 AM   #16
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You have to replace the plug (2.5mm femalle stereo) on Novoflex in order not to potentially damage something in camera. I suggest prior this not to connect any more Novoflex with camera until you do this. Your cable afterwords will be good or you have to cut one end of the cable get 2.5 stereo jack and leave the wire for focus disconnected. This is the other work around but you will have to wake up camera before in order to get focus confirm and then fire away.

05-21-2016, 01:29 PM   #17
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As RAART said, you could just cut the plug off of the camera end of the cable and solder on a TRS (stereo) sub-mini plug with the wires connected to the tip and sleeve. You would then just get shutter trip without focusing (Novaflex is manual focus?).
05-21-2016, 02:21 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by RAART Quote
This will help you resolve your problems...
Thanks for that RAART.
The main point of the half way press would be to effect wake up without having to move my hand to the camera. But the main thing is shutter fire and I now have that, but the screen blanking out is a bit odd.
05-23-2016, 01:57 PM   #19
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Well I took a good fifty pics at the RSPB reserve. I don't think there is any hazard to the camera, and no problems with getting shutter release with the button on the novoflex but the connection at the camera is iffy. If I wiggle the jack the screen alternately goes on and off, and I even triggered a couple of shutter fires just by wiggling. Wiggling the jack on the novoflex did not have any effect. When the camera is awake I get focus confirm no problem.
My next move is the purchase of a cheap wired remote. When it arrives I can inspect th ewiring and consider trying to install the switch in the novoflex. Trouble is I can't see how the stock comes off the barrel of the novoflex PIGRIFF in order to rewire the jack.

05-23-2016, 03:36 PM   #20
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The solution for you is the orthodox way... Separate the focus from the shutter and close it with micro switch installed somewhere close to your thumb where you can press it to enable half-press and trigger the shutter. I hope you understand what I meant with it. If not let me know and I will explain in details. Too bad I do not have Novoflex otherwise it will be way simpler.
05-23-2016, 03:52 PM   #21
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Appreciate your help RAART - but I don't quite follow you, are you suggesting a second switch?
I have already linked to the novoflex description page here it is again, the pics and descriptions are mine.
QuoteQuote:
The inset pics show the internals of the cable shutter release mechanism and an original cable. For mechanical shutter release orient the coin slot in the cable shutter button CS vertically so that it pops out. To activate the electronic switch ET, CS needs to be pushed in and oriented horizontally. ET is a 2 cable momentary switch, the connecting jack looks mono not stereo in the pic (however one for pentax pictured in the PF thread linked to is clearly a 3 section stereo jack). Pic 5 shows a Pentax K5 connected to the PIGRIFF with a generic "Camera Remote Control Switch Shutter Release Cable Cord RS-C1" from China. This has 3-section 2.5mm jacks on each end and works.
This is a close up pic of the remote switch, I have removed the cover on the grip. The hole is for a mechanical cable, the wires lead to a 2.5mm socket.
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Last edited by marcusBMG; 06-13-2016 at 08:39 AM.
05-23-2016, 09:52 PM - 1 Like   #22
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Yes, that's right another switch on the side where you can press like half-press... On your close up of the switch I see another terminal and it may happen that this switch can be used and you do have just to exchange 2.5mm input jack (female) to 2.5mm stereo input jack (female). If the original switch can be reused than it is excellent and if not then you have to drill a small hole and install micro switch where is convenient for you or close to your thumb (very easy to press without taking hand of the grip).

Check the switch installed there if it is closing circuits between the ground and the last (not used) pin when you touch the button. If you can without releasing the button than check the other pin. It should not closing the circuit only if the button is fully depressed. If it is working like this then you need just to rewire and install 2.5 stereo jack (female) and you are good to go. If it does not work that way than another micro switch has to be installed on the side close to your thumb as well as 2.5mm stereo jack (female). I will provide you with schematics just need to draw them.

Here are diverse versions of 2.5mm stereo female jack. You have to remove original and replace it with those and the best is to find with same mounting options.









---------- Post added 05-24-16 at 01:10 AM ----------

Just to add also if you like to do more pro work than you have to find a tact switch which should support half press function and replace original one with that, but remember that in any case here first you have to replace 2.5mm jack with stereo one (female).

Last edited by RAART; 05-23-2016 at 10:11 PM.
06-13-2016, 09:01 AM - 1 Like   #23
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Got myself a couple of cheap canon remote shutter switches. The innards turned out to be the same - a "leaf" switch (if that's the right terminology). Pic shows the smaller one. And a 2.5mm stereo socket from my local Maplins. So one plan is to strip the leaf switch from its casing, install it in the novoflex grip (probably mounted on an inserted wee block of wood), rig the existing push button to activate the switch, (bit of tube, perpendicular screw/bolt to push on the leaf switch), and wire it up. But what is not clear is which of the tabs on the stereo socket is tip and which is ring?

QuoteOriginally posted by RAART Quote
Just to add also if you like to do more pro work than you have to find a tact switch which should support half press function and replace original one with that, but remember that in any case here first you have to replace 2.5mm jack with stereo one (female).
However it might be easier to get a tact switch as you suggested RAART, which would probably be small enough to simply put in line with the push button and wire that up. However I've been having trouble finding/identifying the right switch. All the ones I've looked at seem to be two pin on-off switches. Is there a technical name/descriptor?
Update I was browsing rs-online.com their switch type options were:
  • Latching (3)
  • (On)-Off (1)
  • Momentary (469
  • Off-(On) (60)
  • Off-On (29)
  • On-Off (101)
  • Push-On (105)


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Last edited by marcusBMG; 06-13-2016 at 09:21 AM.
10-13-2016, 02:48 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by commongrounder Quote
If you want to check your remote before plugging it into the camera, the Pentax (and I think Canon, too.) pin-out for the sub-mini TRS (Tip, Ring Sleeve) plug (see stevebrot's photo above) is Sleeve - Common, Ring - Focus, and Tip - Shutter. If you use an ohm-meter, or continuity tester, pushing the button half-way should cause continuity between Sleeve and Ring. Pushing the button full down should cause continuity between Sleeve and Tip (as well as Sleeve and Ring). I don't really think a remote that is wired differently will cause smoke or damage. It will just likely not work or will be backwards (fire before focus). Even the ones that have timer or intervalometer circuits in them just use electronic switching. No voltages present on the plug contacts.
I just wanted to say thanks for this! I'm working on something and needed this info. Once again, PentaxForums to the rescue for my arcane question...
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