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09-06-2016, 08:19 PM   #1
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Pentax K10d general question

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum. I am an experienced graphic design professional and photography/photo editing is an important part of my work.

I'm also a photo enthusiast, for lack of a better termů and I've been shooting with a mint condition K10d. Eventually, I'd like to step up to a K5 or K5 II. In the meantime, my question for this thread is: When shooting in full automatic mode (an example might be, say, walking around at an outdoor or indoor event), am I better off using the green setting on my dial, or something else like P? I'd like to use the best choice of setting that will provide even lighting and best exposures when in full auto mode (my choice of lens lately has been the DA35 prime :-) ). I'm hoping for a few quick opinions. Thanks!

09-06-2016, 08:38 PM   #2
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Welcome to the Pentax Forums!

The conventional wisdom is to avoid "green" mode and use P as a predictable option for hands-off shooting.


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09-06-2016, 08:40 PM   #3
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Green mode is essentially P mode with many menu settings greyed out. If you know what you're doing, there's no reason to use green mode.

General tips: shoot in RAW and select the program line that corresponds to the intended goal. There's normal (default), bokeh, dof, action/faster shutter speed, and MTF.

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09-07-2016, 05:59 AM - 1 Like   #4
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P mode for sure. on the K-5, you can quickly change shutter, or aperture buy adjusting the front or back dials, the camera will auto adjust the available settings to make the exposure correct. I find this very very helpful when shooting events. I used to be a Manual only guy, but these settings are too darn useful, so I am a P shooter now.

09-07-2016, 06:39 AM   #5
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Thanks a lot for the responses... Very appreciated!!
09-07-2016, 07:04 AM   #6
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I prefer to shoot in TAv mode most of the time, choose your aperture and then adjust shutter speed to keep ISO in a good range. That gives you control of the two main variables with front and back wheels. You can balance the two on the fly, it's a very powerful tool.
The K5 series has a great sensor, I made that jump from K10 to K5 and it's no comparison. The K10 is still great for well-lit situations, and it's still a valued camera because it uses a CCD sensor, not CMOS.

The control layout is different, that will take a little getting used to.

Do you shoot RAW or JPG? The processing in-camera for JPG is improved with K5 as well.
09-08-2016, 07:13 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
I prefer to shoot in TAv mode most of the time, choose your aperture and then adjust shutter speed to keep ISO in a good range. That gives you control of the two main variables with front and back wheels. You can balance the two on the fly, it's a very powerful tool.
The K5 series has a great sensor, I made that jump from K10 to K5 and it's no comparison. The K10 is still great for well-lit situations, and it's still a valued camera because it uses a CCD sensor, not CMOS.

The control layout is different, that will take a little getting used to.

Do you shoot RAW or JPG? The processing in-camera for JPG is improved with K5 as well.
Thx for the TAv suggestion. I've tried it but will again. And yes, I do like the CCD quality at ISO 100-200. Really great. I usually shoot JPG for quicker operation and smaller file sizes. I know I'm likely compromising a bit on quality, but I've found that the JPGs look quite good. So I can imaging the improvement in the K5 with JPGs. I've heard that the original K5 is a very solid model. Do you agree? Also, what is your opinion about the K10 CCD images vs the K5 CMOS sensor? Thanks
09-08-2016, 07:30 AM   #8
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I can't really compare the K10 and K5 images. I was mostly shooting JPG at the time, and I was pretty novice. I played around a lot with settings, trying to push the K10 to its limit, then eventually put a split screen in it and played a lot with manual lenses. Then I got the K5 and didn't use the K10 all that much. I've thought about getting a K10 again and removing the AA filter, and maybe the Bayer filter so it records in full spectrum, but the lens filters for UV work are very expensive. I read here of one guy who ran cooling coils into the K10 body so he could use it for super long exposures on a telescope. Another person online put a K10 in one of those big amateur rockets and ran interval shots for an entire launch. He got some great images of the earth's curvature!

Is the K5 solid? Yes. Mine fell off a railing once, which killed the DA55-300. No damage to camera. Then it got torn from my strap in an incident with the dogs and a deer, and went flying. That also killed a DA55-300 with no damage to the camera. I have a hard screen protector on the back LCD and it's shattered. Paint is wearing off, and it has a few dings. It still functions perfectly, which is amazing. I can't imagine a Sony putting up with that kind of abuse. It had been in the rain numerous times, started acting twitchy last year but seems to have dried out completely and worked fine. It was just a trigger firing issue, I never investigated further once it started running OK again.

09-09-2016, 10:27 AM   #9
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Back when I had a K10D, I would use P mode. I wasn't shooting RAW then, but if I still had it I would be now. In darker areas (like a forest), I'd do EQ+2/3rds. I also use P mode for my current ones (K5, K3) since it's like aperature priority and shutter priority mode all in one and I like controlling ISO manually.
09-09-2016, 10:52 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by sadatoni Quote
Back when I had a K10D, I would use P mode. I wasn't shooting RAW then, but if I still had it I would be now. In darker areas (like a forest), I'd do EQ+2/3rds. I also use P mode for my current ones (K5, K3) since it's like aperature priority and shutter priority mode all in one and I like controlling ISO manually.
I recently adopted the P mode for my K-5iis. I wasn't really aware of how good it was to shoot this way. I was a M only guy, then started trying AV, and now go between AV and P most of the time. I have the ISO set to auto with the limits of 200(sometimes 400) - 3200. This help keep my shutter speed higher. I then use Exposure Compensation to adjust on the fly. What a freeing way to shoot.

Obviously in studio and when playing with flash, M is the only way to go. But for everyday shooting and being creative, P mode is really nice right now.
09-09-2016, 11:33 AM   #11
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You'll get better results in P mode for sure. For outdoor work, its hard to beat the colors of the K10D. Outdoors, I usually use auto-ISO set to 100-800 on my K10D and it works pretty well. Shooting in RAW will also give you much better results than the in-camera jpeg. Drop over to the K10D Club here on the forums sometime.
09-10-2016, 07:42 AM   #12
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I recently upgraded from a K110D to a K10D. From what research I did before doing that, it looked like, if I wanted to leave the CMOS sensor behind the next camera to step up to, that would really be worth having, would be a K5 or K5ii, but I'd probably have to save my pennies for a year to come close to getting a used one at a good price.

As paulh mentioned, reading the K10D Club thread posts, does lead one to believe that later cameras are different from the K10D, and in some good ways, but they aren't necessarily better than the K10D in the things it does best! There are people who have upgraded, but still grab their K10Ds all of the time for certain subject matter, leaving the "more advanced" dslr at home more often that one might expect!
09-10-2016, 07:58 PM   #13
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Link to the k10 club?
09-10-2016, 08:11 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blacknight659 Quote
Link to the k10 club?
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/242738-k10d-club.html
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