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09-12-2016, 05:29 AM   #16
klh
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You are getting a lot of good advice here, so I will be a bit repetitive. I have been using this lens successfully on a K20D, K-5, and now my K-3. Here is my recipe.
  1. Manual or TAv at f/8 and 1/800. Occasionally go to f/5.6. Wider than that and it gets very difficult to get focus on a moving target.
  2. AF-C with back button focus. That way I can pre-focus on the players of interest and take my finger off when I'm trying to shoot. At f/8 I don't mind if they move a little bit. If they move too much, just hit the AF button again to refocus. Also, I don't have to worry about someone running across the frame in front of the action (line judges for example) and the camera trying to refocus.
  3. Select a focus point usually at or slightly above the center point depending on what the players are wearing. Look for a high contrast (such as white shorts and colored shirt, or a bright logo on a dark shirt). Focusing on the face or legs is too difficult. Keep the action in the center of the frame. I can always crop the photo later.
  4. Keep both eyes open as I track the action and press the shutter when something interesting happens (burst mode to raise my chances of a keeper)
  5. Shake reduction off (not needed at that speed and when panning)




Last edited by klh; 09-12-2016 at 05:37 AM.
09-12-2016, 07:29 PM   #17
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Yep, and if you've done wildlife shooting that's good practice for sports - there are skills and mindsets in common.

I must set up a hide on the 20 yard line of a football field .... 😀

09-12-2016, 08:13 PM   #18
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Great advice in this thread - I am going to try some different things based on others comments.

Here is what I have been trying to do with the faster aperture...I usually stay at f2.8.
I try to get my subject/player in focus and get the others in the foreground and background as out of focus as possible.

My feeling is that it emphasizes the action and the "active" player.

Not to steal the thread - but instead to expand it....what are your thoughts?

Thanks,

radman
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09-13-2016, 11:03 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by radman Quote
Great advice in this thread - I am going to try some different things based on others comments.

Here is what I have been trying to do with the faster aperture...I usually stay at f2.8.
I try to get my subject/player in focus and get the others in the foreground and background as out of focus as possible.

My feeling is that it emphasizes the action and the "active" player.

Not to steal the thread - but instead to expand it....what are your thoughts?

Thanks,

radman
Radman, I can't argue with success - your shots look great.

For me, it's a matter of probability. If I shoot a subject 40 yards away at 200mm and f/8, I have nearly 12 yards of depth of field to work with. If I go for f/2.8, I only have 1 yard of DOF, and it's more likely I will miss the shot. But no doubt, when you nail it, it's a great result.

09-15-2016, 10:25 AM   #20
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To answer a couple of questions from earlier:

1. Using a 70-200 lens different than the Tamron: I don't think it would matter much. The Tamron generally has a good reputation.

2. USing the AF button: The AF button is preferable in these situations because you can lock focus separately from the shutter release thus you can focus and wait easier. If you are using the shutter button, you essentially have to hold things at a half trigger after you get focus and wait. The problem is that during this process there is a tendency for the finger to waiver a bit and the camera to refocus.

As for the DOF issue, Unless your subjects are quite far away, you are going to find that setting the aperture at 5.6 vs. 2.8 is essentially going to double your DOF. This may sound bad, but if you are already dealing with a DOF that is on the order of 1 m (5-feet), the doubling it is only going to change things to the order of 2-m (10-feet). That is still somewhat narrow, but easier to get focus, and you should still end up with an appropriately blurred background.

Finally, I do find with action, that it helps to keep an eye on shutter speed. I usually end up in TAv mode, even in broad daylight. With a 200 mm lens, you already need faster than 1/200 (approximately) for a steady shot. With moving kids or wildlife, you probably need more on the order of 1/500 unless you are good at the panning techniques others suggested. I also suggest using a monopod or tripod if feasible.

If you really want some good shots, go to some of the practices before the game and use it for your own practice. Sometimes it's just a matter of taking a lot of shots before you start to get a feel for what works. Even if you aren't changing much, you'll find that you'll get better.
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