How do you shoot the moon?

inzova · 10-12-2016, 07:27 PM

So I took this shot tonight and was wondering if anyone had any input on how i could possibly make it better? To note I used a tripod and the phone app to fire the picture.

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jimr-pdx · 10-12-2016, 07:42 PM

Spot metering is my choice, but for large shots a turbulent atmosphere can be a big issue. Some nights you just won't win, but weather forecasts can predict stability and transparency.

inzova · 10-12-2016, 07:47 PM

Originally posted by jimr-pdx

Spot metering is my choice, but for large shots a turbulent atmosphere can be a big issue. Some nights you just won't win, but weather forecasts can predict stability and transparency.

I'll try spot metering thanks !

Adam · 10-12-2016, 08:18 PM

The two most important things, IMO, are a stable tripod (along with a sufficiently fast shutter speed) and nailing the focus. Live view really helps for that

Once you master the technique, the lens will be your limiting factor. Based on the attached shot, I'd say your technique is already pretty good! Just sharpen it a bit and boost the contrast to give it that pop.

Adam
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KiloHotelphoto · 10-12-2016, 08:25 PM - **1 Like**

14 Tips for Shooting the Moon | explora

B&H had this in their Explora section, they also emailed it out in a news letter a few weeks ago. I've be meaning to give it a shot but the weather hasn't cooperated.

**geomez** · 10-12-2016, 09:13 PM - **1 Like**

I'd say the same as Adam but add manual focus with liveview zoomed in with focus peaking turned on.

inzova · 10-12-2016, 09:45 PM

Originally posted by Adam

The two most important things, IMO, are a stable tripod (along with a sufficiently fast shutter speed) and nailing the focus. Live view really helps for that

Once you master the technique, the lens will be your limiting factor. Based on the attached shot, I'd say your technique is already pretty good! Just sharpen it a bit and boost the contrast to give it that pop.

Thanks ill keep that in mind !

**Tas** · 10-12-2016, 10:02 PM - **2 Likes**

I concur with the above and would add the following:

Decide if you want the moon in detail or as a spotlight, both approaches will work with the right context.
If you're after detail, the moon is best captured during daylight hours, to do this I recommend planning on where to shoot from and when to shoot by using a program like the Photographer's Ephemeris: The Photographer's Ephemeris: TPE for Desktop There's plenty of apps like this for your smart phone too, another good one is Sun Surveyor.
As the moon is reflecting the sun it is very bright, so you will be able to get away with faster than expected shutter speeds, so stop down to f8-f11 and see how the exposures look and adjust your shutter speed accordingly.
Go manual focus and live view as suggested. If you're shooting the moon as it's rising keep it lower in the field of view to start with as it will transit upwards and this will give you more time to work with. The reverse is of course applicable if you're catching the moon setting.
You need mirror lock up so you minimise shaking/vibration, if your phone app doesn't give you this a cheap wired remote will do.
If it's windy then you'd be best off looking for a sheltered location to shoot from. The long lens will magnify movements/vibration caused by wind.
Don't be deterred by clouds, some of the most atmospheric moon images include cloud. Fast moving cloud across the face of the moon looks really kewl on video.
The moon added to landscapes etc can add something special to your images, there's a thread here if you're looking for some idease/inspiration: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/27...your-moon.html

Good luck,

Tas

assa1 · 10-12-2016, 10:55 PM - **2 Likes**

There are two clous: stability and exposure. You should have a really sturdy and stabile tripod. Use selftimer and, if you have, remote shutter release. As far as exposure concerned try to set lowest ISO possible and f8. Start with 1/160s. Set AF to spot. You can take really nice images of the moon.

**david94903** · 10-12-2016, 11:03 PM - **2 Likes**

1/160 sec, f/8, ISO 100 handheld @ 450mm on K3.

Gimbal · 10-12-2016, 11:33 PM - **2 Likes**

I will only add that you should take plenty of pictures. Due to air turbulence chances are that some will be better than others even if you don’t change anything between the shots.

inzova · 10-13-2016, 02:53 AM

Originally posted by david94903

1/160 sec, f/8, ISO 100 handheld @ 450mm on K3.

nice shot !

Billk · 10-13-2016, 03:49 AM - **1 Like**

Freezing night in Bleak City tonight, which always helps.

K3ii, DA 300mm F4 and 1.4TC.

ISO 100, F8, 1/320 Sec.

Focused using live view, with zoom in (you go to live view then press the OK button).Mirror lock up and shutter release to minimise vibration. I also use a pretty chunky tripod.

**gaweidert** · 10-13-2016, 04:09 AM

By betting it all!!

Ooops. Misunderstood the question. The moon is a pretty close to an 18% grey card. I have always used the sunny 16 rule as a starting point. 1/ASA (ISO in newspeak) at f16. Exposure would vary by how close the moon is the the horizon. Sunny 16 rule applies to directly overhead as that it when the light from it passes through the least amount of atmosphere. Since the moon is the same distance from the sun as earth,the amount of light energy reaching it is the same.

**UncleVanya** · 10-13-2016, 07:22 AM

Originally posted by gaweidert

By betting it all!!

Ooops. Misunderstood the question. The moon is a pretty close to an 18% grey card. I have always used the sunny 16 rule as a starting point. 1/ASA (ISO in newspeak) at f16. Exposure would vary by how close the moon is the the horizon. Sunny 16 rule applies to directly overhead as that it when the light from it passes through the least amount of atmosphere. Since the moon is the same distance from the sun as earth,the amount of light energy reaching it is the same.

The actual "rule" I grew up with is f8 at 1/ISO (ASA back then) for the moon. F16 sunny sixteen was for sunny conditions. In practice on dslr I find this rule to result in photos that are a bit too dark but it is a good place to start.

10-12-2016, 10:02 PM - 2 Likes	#8
Tas Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Brisbane, QLD Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,202	I concur with the above and would add the following: Decide if you want the moon in detail or as a spotlight, both approaches will work with the right context. If you're after detail, the moon is best captured during daylight hours, to do this I recommend planning on where to shoot from and when to shoot by using a program like the Photographer's Ephemeris: The Photographer's Ephemeris: TPE for Desktop There's plenty of apps like this for your smart phone too, another good one is Sun Surveyor. As the moon is reflecting the sun it is very bright, so you will be able to get away with faster than expected shutter speeds, so stop down to f8-f11 and see how the exposures look and adjust your shutter speed accordingly. Go manual focus and live view as suggested. If you're shooting the moon as it's rising keep it lower in the field of view to start with as it will transit upwards and this will give you more time to work with. The reverse is of course applicable if you're catching the moon setting. You need mirror lock up so you minimise shaking/vibration, if your phone app doesn't give you this a cheap wired remote will do. If it's windy then you'd be best off looking for a sheltered location to shoot from. The long lens will magnify movements/vibration caused by wind. Don't be deterred by clouds, some of the most atmospheric moon images include cloud. Fast moving cloud across the face of the moon looks really kewl on video. The moon added to landscapes etc can add something special to your images, there's a thread here if you're looking for some idease/inspiration: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/26-mini-challenges-games-photo-stories/27...your-moon.html Good luck, Tas

10-12-2016, 10:55 PM - 2 Likes	#9
assa1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2015 Posts: 140	There are two clous: stability and exposure. You should have a really sturdy and stabile tripod. Use selftimer and, if you have, remote shutter release. As far as exposure concerned try to set lowest ISO possible and f8. Start with 1/160s. Set AF to spot. You can take really nice images of the moon. Attached Images

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10-12-2016, 07:42 PM	#2
jimr-pdx Pentaxian Join Date: May 2010 Location: now 1 hour north of PDX Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,897	Spot metering is my choice, but for large shots a turbulent atmosphere can be a big issue. Some nights you just won't win, but weather forecasts can predict stability and transparency.

10-12-2016, 07:47 PM	#3
inzova Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Photos: Albums Posts: 44 Original Poster	Originally posted by jimr-pdx Spot metering is my choice, but for large shots a turbulent atmosphere can be a big issue. Some nights you just won't win, but weather forecasts can predict stability and transparency. I'll try spot metering thanks !

10-12-2016, 08:18 PM	#4
Adam Administrator Site Webmaster Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Arizona Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 51,608	The two most important things, IMO, are a stable tripod (along with a sufficiently fast shutter speed) and nailing the focus. Live view really helps for that Once you master the technique, the lens will be your limiting factor. Based on the attached shot, I'd say your technique is already pretty good! Just sharpen it a bit and boost the contrast to give it that pop. Adam PentaxForums.com Webmaster (Site Usage Guide \| Site Help \| My Photography) PentaxForums.com server and development costs are user-supported. You can help cover these costs by donating or purchasing one of our Pentax eBooks. Or, buy your photo gear from our affiliates, Adorama, B&H Photo, KEH, or Topaz Labs, and get FREE Marketplace access - click here to see how! Trusted Pentax retailers:

10-12-2016, 08:25 PM - 1 Like	#5
KiloHotelphoto Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Glen Mills, PA Photos: Albums Posts: 1,030	14 Tips for Shooting the Moon \| explora B&H had this in their Explora section, they also emailed it out in a news letter a few weeks ago. I've be meaning to give it a shot but the weather hasn't cooperated.

10-12-2016, 09:13 PM - 1 Like	#6
geomez Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Roanoke, Virginia, USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,760	I'd say the same as Adam but add manual focus with liveview zoomed in with focus peaking turned on.

10-12-2016, 09:45 PM	#7
inzova Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Photos: Albums Posts: 44 Original Poster	Originally posted by Adam The two most important things, IMO, are a stable tripod (along with a sufficiently fast shutter speed) and nailing the focus. Live view really helps for that Once you master the technique, the lens will be your limiting factor. Based on the attached shot, I'd say your technique is already pretty good! Just sharpen it a bit and boost the contrast to give it that pop. Thanks ill keep that in mind !

10-12-2016, 11:33 PM - 2 Likes	#11
Gimbal Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Sweden Posts: 2,106	I will only add that you should take plenty of pictures. Due to air turbulence chances are that some will be better than others even if you don’t change anything between the shots.

10-13-2016, 02:53 AM	#12
inzova Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Photos: Albums Posts: 44 Original Poster	Originally posted by david94903 1/160 sec, f/8, ISO 100 handheld @ 450mm on K3. nice shot !

10-13-2016, 04:09 AM	#14
gaweidert Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Rochester, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,327	By betting it all!! Ooops. Misunderstood the question. The moon is a pretty close to an 18% grey card. I have always used the sunny 16 rule as a starting point. 1/ASA (ISO in newspeak) at f16. Exposure would vary by how close the moon is the the horizon. Sunny 16 rule applies to directly overhead as that it when the light from it passes through the least amount of atmosphere. Since the moon is the same distance from the sun as earth,the amount of light energy reaching it is the same.

10-13-2016, 07:22 AM	#15
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,460	Originally posted by gaweidert By betting it all!! Ooops. Misunderstood the question. The moon is a pretty close to an 18% grey card. I have always used the sunny 16 rule as a starting point. 1/ASA (ISO in newspeak) at f16. Exposure would vary by how close the moon is the the horizon. Sunny 16 rule applies to directly overhead as that it when the light from it passes through the least amount of atmosphere. Since the moon is the same distance from the sun as earth,the amount of light energy reaching it is the same. The actual "rule" I grew up with is f8 at 1/ISO (ASA back then) for the moon. F16 sunny sixteen was for sunny conditions. In practice on dslr I find this rule to result in photos that are a bit too dark but it is a good place to start.