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10-20-2016, 02:16 AM   #16
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Basically I had the camera set up all wrong. Now I have a few things to work with I'll try them when I get the camera back. And I'll bring the monopod just in case.
AF-S
spot metering
shutter at least 1/500
shake reduction-off
I'll start with that

10-20-2016, 06:15 AM   #17
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Remember that metering and focus mode are different. Spot may work but it may also be confused by a white bird. Center point focus or one of the more restricted sets (center 9? I can't remember) will limit the af choices to be more likely to select your subject. Switching to back button autofocus may also help as the option to prefocus on a spot in the area and wait would work without the fear that pressing the shutter release will change focus accidentally by locking on the wrong object.
10-20-2016, 11:18 AM   #18
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To keep the whites from blowing out, meter the green first. Advice I received from a long time bird shooter here. And it works. Course I don't always remember that advice but when I shoot a white bird I up the f stop and lower the ISO.

If you want to try, use center-weighted metering. I assume that's what UV is recommending but never ever use pattern metering on wildlife. Pattern metering is okay for landscape/buildings/people, but not so good on wildlife.
10-20-2016, 11:51 AM   #19
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Lens reviewers mention massive CA.
The whole white bird simply became a chromatic abberation, try to stop the lens down to f8 like others already said.

10-20-2016, 01:16 PM   #20
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I don't shoot birds, but I almost always have the focus set to the back button instead of going along with the shutter button. As someone else mentioned, you can focus once and then take multiple shots without having to refocus, if your subject doesn't fly away.
10-20-2016, 01:30 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by enyaw Quote
I'm guessing it might be the filter that came with the lens.
Definitely try again without the filter. The only filters you would probably need for digital would be a circular polarizer or neutral density filter. UV, haze filters, etc are of not much use on digital except as a means of lens protection under adverse conditions.
10-20-2016, 02:42 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady95 Quote
The EXIF on each photo shows Pattern metering. Try spot metering instead. All my birds are shot this way. You want to focus on the bird not necessarily the whole photo scene.


The EXIF field for 'Patten' I believe refers to the exposure metering mode (short for 'multi-pattern') and is nothing to do with autofocusing. Changing exposure metering modes should have no impact on focusing accuracy.

10-20-2016, 03:41 PM   #23
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Hi, I do have back button autofocus on. I prefer that method after using it on my Nikon. Will shoot try shooting at f8 and above as well. I also have centre point focus on. I don't know if all of that showed in the exif but I'm letting you know just in case

I'm guessing it had more to do with fstop and shutter speed. I think 1/500 would have been good and F8 So I'll keep those things in mind and try out spot metering as well.

Last edited by enyaw; 10-20-2016 at 04:00 PM.
10-21-2016, 12:10 AM - 1 Like   #24
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For these types of shots I use single, centre point AF mode, back button AF, centre weighted metering, TAv exposure mode, f/11 or f/16 (Sigma 150-500/4.5-6.3), about 1/1000 sec and a monopod. I "chimp" a lot, and adjust my exposure using the exposure compensation adjustment (I recently switched from Av mode, or occasional full manual mode). I often tweak the focus manually, and have a magnifying eyecup installed to aid manual focus using the OVF. Camera is a K-3.



10-21-2016, 01:47 AM   #25
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Thanks alot. I see a monopod would be very helpful even with a 210mm. centre point af-check, back button auto focus-check. My metering was wrong, and my fstop and my shutter speed. I shoot manual but still learning and it was my first time out with that lens.

those are beautiful photos.

Last edited by enyaw; 10-21-2016 at 01:55 AM.
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