New macro lens :)

bessa-66 · 01-05-2017, 04:40 AM

Hi all,

I have a "new" macro lens, my very first proper macro lens. It's a Vivitar 55mm f2.8 in M42 mount. However, at 1:1 you can literally see the depth of field change with the smallest movement. One tiny part of my subject is in focus and the rest is blurry. Is this normal? I've never used macro before so I have no idea.

Thanks

**BigMackCam** · 01-05-2017, 04:44 AM

Yes, that's perfectly normal. The closer you focus any lens, the shallower the depth of field. For macro work you want to be stopping down to at least f/8, and more likely f/16...

bessa-66 · 01-05-2017, 04:49 AM

Originally posted by BigMackCam

Yes, that's perfectly normal. The closer you focus any lens, the shallower the depth of field. For macro work you want to be stopping down to at least f/8, and more likely f/16...

I see. Can you do macro in the sunlight if you have to stop down so much, or do you need powerful flashes and stuff like that? Thanks for the quick reply too

**TomB_tx** · 01-05-2017, 05:09 AM

With a 50 - 60 mm macro, the front of the lens the front of the lens can get so close to the subject that it can leave shadows. That's why the ringlight flashes were developed that mount around the front of the lens.
But I prefer the control of natural light, so I consider a small, solid tripod essential for macro. I use an old Leica tabletop model, often with a bellows unit for closer focusing, and the bellows makes the tripod even more important. With that I may even use a small LED flashlight to shine on the subject.
However, when hiking or such I may just use a macro as my normal lens that just allows me to get closer when needed

r0ckstarr · 01-05-2017, 05:28 AM

Originally posted by bessa-66

One tiny part of my subject is in focus and the rest is blurry.

Do you have Photoshop? I have a little tutorial on focus stacking here:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/177-macro-photography/314313-focus-stacking-tutorial.html

Na Horuk · 01-05-2017, 05:44 AM

Yep. That is why people use things like ring lights or a whole flash rig, and they use focus stacking techniques (take multiple photos with diff focus, then digitally combine them into one with "big DoF")
Insect macro is difficult, and 55mm might not be long enough. Problem with 55mm at 1:1 is that you have to be really, really close to the subject - and if the subject is a twitchy, scared insect, it will run away

**stubyles** · 01-05-2017, 05:46 AM - **1 Like**

For bugs I tend to use TAV mode and focus stacking, put it in burst mode (my old K-3 was very good for this) and move the focus through the subject as you shoot, I generally shoot at around 1/400s to avoid motion blur. You do need bright conditions though otherwise the ISO gets too high and noise becomes a problem.
This one was at f5.6 and about 6 shots (I think):

pathdoc · 01-05-2017, 06:21 AM

The DOF issue is the reason why macro lenses generally close down one stop smaller than most others; e.g. all my non-macro 50mm and 55mm Takumars go only to f/16, but my SMC Macro 50/4 goes down to f/22. After the transition to K mount, they virtually all closed down to f/22 but the macros started going to f/32 (e.g. my D-FA 100/2.8 WR). The 35/2.8 Limited is the one exception I can think of, and it's a curious one because the minimum focus distance is incredibly small, and (as I found out in single-in last year), if any macro lens needs f/32 or even smaller, it's this one. OTOH, 35mm divided by 32 yields a VERY small aperture diameter, and I suspect the engineers ran into horrific and disproportionate diffraction issues & elected to give the extra stop a miss.

bluestringer · 01-05-2017, 07:58 AM

I have that lens in K-mount. It is excellent. As others have noted you need to stop down to f8-f16 and you need light. I use a Sunpak DX-8R ring flash. Also try to utilize catch in focus, it helps a lot.

**gaweidert** · 01-05-2017, 08:34 AM - **1 Like**

Depending upon the weather I use a 22" (56cm) Photoflex LIiteDisc round reflector instead of a flash whenever I can. Much softer light. Mine is a good 25+ years old and is showing it's age a bit but still works fine. It is silver on one side and gold on the other if you want warmer light. It collapses into a much smaller 8 1/2 (22cm) inch disc that fits into a pouch for storage. Still available for about $25 US at B&H.

**boriscleto** · 01-05-2017, 09:42 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Na Horuk

and if the subject is a twitchy, scared insect, it will run away

Which is why people put their subjects in the freezer before they shoot them...

**marcusBMG** · 01-05-2017, 10:05 AM - **1 Like**

There's loads online about macro - you need to invest in a bit of study. The great innovation that digital has enabled is focus stacking. This web site by PF member Nass has lots of detailed stuff:

Extreme Macro Photography

old4570 · 01-05-2017, 01:26 PM

The Vivitar 55 is a wonderful lens ,
It's rather unfortunate you went M42 ..

If you do your Macro under studio conditions with good lighting control , lens should work fine .

Single shot , free hand , Vivitar 55 ( K mount )

Wild Mark · 01-05-2017, 02:12 PM - **1 Like**

I have macro shot showing the DoF challenge. In this case the spider was simply too large to get all the detail in one shot.

bessa-66 · 01-05-2017, 03:14 PM

Hey everyone, thank you for your replies and tips! A valuable resource for someone just starting up

I'm looking forward to playing around with this lens

---------- Post added 01-05-17 at 03:16 PM ----------

Originally posted by r0ckstarr

Do you have Photoshop? I have a little tutorial on focus stacking here:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/177-macro-photography/314313-focus-stacking-tutorial.html

Thanks, I'll check it out

01-05-2017, 04:40 AM	#1
bessa-66 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 137	New macro lens :) Hi all, I have a "new" macro lens, my very first proper macro lens. It's a Vivitar 55mm f2.8 in M42 mount. However, at 1:1 you can literally see the depth of field change with the smallest movement. One tiny part of my subject is in focus and the rest is blurry. Is this normal? I've never used macro before so I have no idea. Thanks

01-05-2017, 01:26 PM	#13
old4570 Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 2,551	Hmmmmm The Vivitar 55 is a wonderful lens , It's rather unfortunate you went M42 .. If you do your Macro under studio conditions with good lighting control , lens should work fine . Single shot , free hand , Vivitar 55 ( K mount )

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
New K-mount lens: Samyang 100mm F/2.8 Macro	Doundounba	Pentax News and Rumors	46	11-14-2016 06:02 PM
New wide angle macro lens for Pentax-K mount	Pavel_Zhelev	General Photography	3	03-25-2016 03:53 AM
Nature Testing new macro lens	atomx	Post Your Photos!	4	02-15-2015 05:47 PM
new macro lens	oatman911	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	8	01-31-2009 05:43 AM

01-05-2017, 04:44 AM	#2
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,670	Yes, that's perfectly normal. The closer you focus any lens, the shallower the depth of field. For macro work you want to be stopping down to at least f/8, and more likely f/16...

01-05-2017, 04:49 AM	#3
bessa-66 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 137 Original Poster	Originally posted by BigMackCam Yes, that's perfectly normal. The closer you focus any lens, the shallower the depth of field. For macro work you want to be stopping down to at least f/8, and more likely f/16... I see. Can you do macro in the sunlight if you have to stop down so much, or do you need powerful flashes and stuff like that? Thanks for the quick reply too

01-05-2017, 05:09 AM	#4
TomB_tx Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Texas Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,446	With a 50 - 60 mm macro, the front of the lens the front of the lens can get so close to the subject that it can leave shadows. That's why the ringlight flashes were developed that mount around the front of the lens. But I prefer the control of natural light, so I consider a small, solid tripod essential for macro. I use an old Leica tabletop model, often with a bellows unit for closer focusing, and the bellows makes the tripod even more important. With that I may even use a small LED flashlight to shine on the subject. However, when hiking or such I may just use a macro as my normal lens that just allows me to get closer when needed

01-05-2017, 05:28 AM	#5
r0ckstarr Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Texas Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,507	Originally posted by bessa-66 One tiny part of my subject is in focus and the rest is blurry. Do you have Photoshop? I have a little tutorial on focus stacking here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/177-macro-photography/314313-focus-stacking-tutorial.html

01-05-2017, 05:44 AM	#6
Na Horuk Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Slovenia, probably Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 11,186	Yep. That is why people use things like ring lights or a whole flash rig, and they use focus stacking techniques (take multiple photos with diff focus, then digitally combine them into one with "big DoF") Insect macro is difficult, and 55mm might not be long enough. Problem with 55mm at 1:1 is that you have to be really, really close to the subject - and if the subject is a twitchy, scared insect, it will run away

01-05-2017, 05:46 AM - 1 Like	#7
stubyles Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2013 Photos: Gallery Posts: 824	For bugs I tend to use TAV mode and focus stacking, put it in burst mode (my old K-3 was very good for this) and move the focus through the subject as you shoot, I generally shoot at around 1/400s to avoid motion blur. You do need bright conditions though otherwise the ISO gets too high and noise becomes a problem. This one was at f5.6 and about 6 shots (I think):

01-05-2017, 06:21 AM	#8
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	The DOF issue is the reason why macro lenses generally close down one stop smaller than most others; e.g. all my non-macro 50mm and 55mm Takumars go only to f/16, but my SMC Macro 50/4 goes down to f/22. After the transition to K mount, they virtually all closed down to f/22 but the macros started going to f/32 (e.g. my D-FA 100/2.8 WR). The 35/2.8 Limited is the one exception I can think of, and it's a curious one because the minimum focus distance is incredibly small, and (as I found out in single-in last year), if any macro lens needs f/32 or even smaller, it's this one. OTOH, 35mm divided by 32 yields a VERY small aperture diameter, and I suspect the engineers ran into horrific and disproportionate diffraction issues & elected to give the extra stop a miss.

01-05-2017, 07:58 AM	#9
bluestringer Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Cotton fields of South Georgia Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,748	I have that lens in K-mount. It is excellent. As others have noted you need to stop down to f8-f16 and you need light. I use a Sunpak DX-8R ring flash. Also try to utilize catch in focus, it helps a lot.

01-05-2017, 08:34 AM - 1 Like	#10
gaweidert Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Rochester, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,325	Depending upon the weather I use a 22" (56cm) Photoflex LIiteDisc round reflector instead of a flash whenever I can. Much softer light. Mine is a good 25+ years old and is showing it's age a bit but still works fine. It is silver on one side and gold on the other if you want warmer light. It collapses into a much smaller 8 1/2 (22cm) inch disc that fits into a pouch for storage. Still available for about $25 US at B&H.

01-05-2017, 09:42 AM - 1 Like	#11
boriscleto Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: North Syracuse, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,475	Originally posted by Na Horuk and if the subject is a twitchy, scared insect, it will run away Which is why people put their subjects in the freezer before they shoot them...

01-05-2017, 10:05 AM - 1 Like	#12
marcusBMG Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Wales Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,869	There's loads online about macro - you need to invest in a bit of study. The great innovation that digital has enabled is focus stacking. This web site by PF member Nass has lots of detailed stuff: Extreme Macro Photography

01-05-2017, 03:14 PM	#15
bessa-66 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Posts: 137 Original Poster	Hey everyone, thank you for your replies and tips! A valuable resource for someone just starting up I'm looking forward to playing around with this lens ---------- Post added 01-05-17 at 03:16 PM ---------- Originally posted by r0ckstarr Do you have Photoshop? I have a little tutorial on focus stacking here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/177-macro-photography/314313-focus-stacking-tutorial.html Thanks, I'll check it out