[jeantarrou]

Yes, but again, the focusing screen and the AF system are unrelated. Catch-in-focus and the focus indicator are tied to the AF system, of course. If you also want accurate visual focusing you need a properly-adjusted focusing screen so you can see what you're doing.

Ok, so when doing this does is matter if I calibrate the screen first and then the AF or vice-versa?

[Audi 5 cyl]

So I'm still pretty dissatisfied with my manual focusing results and I'd like to ask you all for some suggestions/recommendations/techniques that maybe I haven't tried or thought of yet?

As a background, I've been using manual lenses for almost 2 years now so there's no lack of practice, I've also installed a Pentax magnifier eyecup (the O-ME53 with a 1.18x magnification) and an EC-A focusing screen Focusing Screen .

I'm wondering if an eyecup with a greater magnification might help?

I don't LOVE the EC-A screen, it's better than the stock one but I think I'd prefer and maybe get better results with split-image screen?

Unfortunately (I say this because it adds to the challenge) my "subjects" are almost exclusively my young children, often running, jumping, rolling around, laughing, crying, screaming, playing (you get the point) and frequently I'm juggling the low light fast moving subject conundrum. Maybe this is another area I could reconsider my technique, but the "solution" so far is shooting mostly wide-open, which obviously really narrows my DOF. I have tried varying combinations of higher ISO with a more stopped-down aperture and that has of course widened my DOF but it's a relative improvement because I'm also often snapping pics of my girls when they're <10' away from me.

Thinking out loud here, I rarely attach my flash, could this help?

Lastly, the visual and audible focus notifications on my K30 are not accurate, with center focus selected the camera is sounding when my focus subject is clearly (no pun intended!) not in focus. My question here, would dialing in the in camera AF fine adjustment correct this particular issue?

Thanks in advance for any input!

- Pump up the iso to a 1250-1600, or more if there is not much light. I keep the camera in Av mode and iso is adjusted to auto to a 100-1250 range most of the time.
- For older, manual, lenses, it is crucial to input the focal length properly, if not SR will just mess up the shot.
- Know your lenses and the way manual focus works (focus throw, dampness, optical factors). Not all lenses just snap in focus the way we would have wanted them to. My Cosinon-S 50mm f/1.8 is a very very easy lens to focus wide open. It just comes naturally with that one. On the other hand, Schneider Kreuznach Xenon 50 f/1.9 and Voigtlander Ultron 50 f/2 are very difficult to focus and I use them primarily for their bokeh, not ease of use. Pentax lenses are generally easy to focus.
- Predict the subject movement! A galloping horse running toward you, or any other animal or a vehicle for that matter, or unpredictable swifts and swallows are a nightmare for any AF system. With manual focus, you might just get the shot without issues if you predict your subject's speed and trajectory.
- I do not have experience with flashes, so can not help you there. I have four bodies now, and have fired the flash maybe ten times for the last three years. I consider this a big drawback of my current style.
- For macro photography, I use Componons instead of regular macro lenses and tend to focus wide open and then close down to desired aperture to take the shot. This works very well for me.
- On penta-mirror cameras, I find the eyecup useful, not so much on penta-prism cameras. I doubt that this will bring anything positive for more precise focusing.
- Live view works as a charm, not only for focus precision, but also for bokeh composition. Sensor sees the bokeh as it will look on the exposure, the same for flares, eye via viewfinder can not.

Split screen prism is a useful tool if well adjusted with shims, but not for any kind of speed photography. Split screens will get you the shot, but I find them useful for still life, when I have the time to hold my breath, take things easy, calm down and plan the shot, more adapted to manual film photography IMO.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Marko

[stevebrot]

How do I know if my screen needs to be shimmed or not?

Make your best attempt at manual focus using the viewfinder and a flat target. Switch to live view and press the OK button to magnify the view. Is the magnified live view acceptable sharp?

Alternatively, make your best effort at manual focus using magnified live view and switch to the regular viewfinder. Is the viewfinder image sharp?

Magnified live view is the gold standard for manual focus. If the viewfinder focus agrees, the shimming is perfect.


Steve

[Bengan]

Ok, so when doing this does is matter if I calibrate the screen first and then the AF or vice-versa?

No, you can do either first.

[jeantarrou]

OK, so the game plan is to make sure I'm properly dialed in with the focusing screen and the in-camera AF, I'm interested to see what my initial results end up being. Also, it'll be curious to try this with all my lenses. Then I'll start using CID, attach my flash more often and I'm definitely considering the S focusing screen, anyone have one they're looking to get rid of!?

[luftfluss]

Oy, this is all beyond me. Shooting wildlife manual-focusing at 500mm is probably easier than shooting energetic kids at 50mm! Good luck!

[Kerrowdown]

I noticed from from your images that the shutter speeds are on the slow end, have a go with faster speeds as that may well help you to get sharper results too.

[arkav]

I have a K30 and struggle to focus MF lenses through the optical viewfinder.

I have the same camera, and do a lot of manual focus work using the viewfinder.
I mostly use the 100 DFA WR macro lense for this, with a maximum aperture of f2.8, which makes for a fairly bright view in the viewfinder. Lenses with smaller maximum apertures will make for a dimmer view in the viewfinder. I used to do this with a K200D ( dimmer viewfinder ) and an M series macro ( F4 ). First I got the 100WR, then I got the K30, so for me, things have got progressively easier.

I keep debating about installing a split image screen.

Of course, depending on your eyesight, you may have more trouble doing this

[jeantarrou]

I noticed from from your images that the shutter speeds are on the slow end, have a go with faster speeds as that may well help you to get sharper results too.

I'd love to, my reason for the slower shutter speeds are the low light environment. I don't really want to pump up the ISO anymore either I don't think? I wish the F stop data was saved, but it's fair to assume I'm either wide open or stopped down only 1 or 2 clicks...

[Just1MoreDave]

I'd love to, my reason for the slower shutter speeds are the low light environment. I don't really want to pump up the ISO anymore either I don't think? I wish the F stop data was saved, but it's fair to assume I'm either wide open or stopped down only 1 or 2 clicks...

I think the average viewer will notice blur more than noise. The noise isn't so terrible with the recent cameras anyway. It is probably less noticeable in the image than flash.

[jeantarrou]

I think the average viewer will notice blur more than noise. The noise isn't so terrible with the recent cameras anyway. It is probably less noticeable in the image than flash.

I've experimented a fair amount with higher iso's and have felt like 1600 is about my max, BUT, after squaring away my focus screen and AF fine adjustment I should probably play around with those higher iso's to see if there's an improvement.

---------- Post added 01-17-17 at 12:00 PM ----------

And I'm really grateful for all the suggestions made here, I'm planning on giving every one a fair shake. It'll be more experience deposited into the knowledge bank.

[jeantarrou]

Little update, the focus screen doesn't require any shimming, sharply focused magnified view in live view shows the same results in the viewfinder, check that one off the list.

---------- Post added 01-17-17 at 06:59 PM ----------

Update #2, had to apply 3 steps of correction for front focus. Feeling "dialed in" right now, I'll continue to experiment, hopefully come back to this thread with some positive results!!!!