[TomB_tx]

Ann,
I know what you mean - I started with Pentax in 1965 and have used manual film cameras ever since as they give full control, and in a way that is 2nd nature to me. I never got along with digital until Leica came out with their M9, which works just like their film cameras have for decades. I tried a K-5 for my old Pentax manual lenses, but it isn't ideal for that use. Finally I tried a Sony A7 for my old Pentax lenses, and it has become my "digital LX" in aperture preferred mode. With spot mode you can pick the area to meter, and the EVF lightens/darkens the scene so you see the effect of metering that spot. Then hold the exposure, re-compose to suit, and take the shot.

[nicolpa47]

Ann,
I know what you mean - I started with Pentax in 1965 and have used manual film cameras ever since as they give full control, and in a way that is 2nd nature to me. I never got along with digital until Leica came out with their M9, which works just like their film cameras have for decades. I tried a K-5 for my old Pentax manual lenses, but it isn't ideal for that use. Finally I tried a Sony A7 for my old Pentax lenses, and it has become my "digital LX" in aperture preferred mode. With spot mode you can pick the area to meter, and the EVF lightens/darkens the scene so you see the effect of metering that spot. Then hold the exposure, re-compose to suit, and take the shot.

You have more or less described how I used to work with my SPII and MX. When first starting with a DSLR(K100D) I worked similarly in picking my assessment of the correct area to meter - albeit using one of the auto modes. As I have become more familiar with the digital cameras and their controls, I will still assess the correct area to meter even though I find that the more recent cameras cope very well, but using the various camera modes depending upon my priority for an individual photo. Obviously there is no EVF, but I can cross check with the review screen and adjust the exposure as necessary. I do understand the confusion caused by the plethora of buttons and options on the cameras - it takes time and usage to become familiar with them, and I'm still learning.

[Just1MoreDave]

...I can put it in manual, I can set aperture, f-stop and iso and set for spot metering. And still the only freaking photo I can take seems to be perfectly exposed! I'd like to take a picture with part perfectly exposed and part in shadow but it won't take the picture. Even a bad picture would let me figure out what to do to correct it(and without using film, developing film and printing which is an advantage)...

I think everyone including me missed the point on first read, which is you already have set up the camera kind of like a Spotmatic, but it won't let you take a picture sometimes. The camera defaults to "focus priority" which is the #1 cause of not letting you take a picture. Until the camera thinks something is in focus, the shutter is locked. The easy fix is like some have mentioned, switch to manual focus, the switch on the front of the camera. Then you have to focus yourself of course.

I would try center weighted metering instead of spot. Despite the name, the Spotmatic didn't have spot metering. Center weighted will give you some settings that are close, and with digital, you can pretty quickly tell if it's what you want. With some experience, you can quickly figure out how to get from the meter suggestions to the exposure you want. I gave spot metering a try but you have to be aware that it only meters one exact spot. The rest of the frame is ignored.

[pakinjapan]

…I'd like to take a picture with part perfectly exposed and part in shadow ...

You can do this in many ways. I will talk about the 2 ways I usually do. {#2 might be faster and useful for you.}
1. Take photo as normal. Then in Post-production, I am using Photoshop so I will talk about Photoshop. Start with that freaking perfectly exposed photo,
1.1.make a copy of it so you have 2 identical, images A and B
1.2. Image A, adjust the setting so that the perfectly exposed part looks good.
1.3. Image B, adjust the setting so that the part in shadow looks good / dark enough to you.
1.4. Put them together as layers and mask the upper layer so you got the best of both worlds in one image.

2. Another ways which is less complicate than #1.
Very often I shoot with multi-segment metering and do it at anywhere from -0.5 to -2.5 to keep the shadow area a lot darker than it should be. Then adjust variate setting in RAW converter software of your choice. As mentioned, I am using camera raw and Photoshop, so I usually adjust highlight and shadow settings, curves setting and so on.

They are more ways to do this, hope you keep on trying.

a few image samples I found on internet:

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Last edited by pakinjapan; 10-09-2017 at 06:13 PM.

[anniehp]

Pepperberry Farm, you hit the nail on the head, the darn camera takes good pictures in spite of me. I guess a lot of people want that. Whats the world coming to?


TwoUptons, I still have my spotmatic but I find the possibilities of digital exciting and don’t want to go back to film. I just want at least most of the same control I had with film.


I agree with those that say go to manual, its figuring out how to do that that’s not as straightforward as I thought it would be. I didn’t get this camera new and I hope I would have had the good sense to chuck everything but who knows? I didn’t fully realize how confusing all the auto stuff was until I took out my old spotmatic and went through the steps to take a picture. That’s what made sense but now I have to figure how to do it on digital.


I thought it would be fairly simple from turning the dial at the top to M. I set my ISO to 400, like my old Tri-X. I put it on spot metering. I found the dial at the back to the right of the viewfinder controls the f stop. Shutter speed is controlled by the dial on the front just forward of the on/off switch. So since when is shutter speed measured in inches? Either I’ve fallen down a rabbit hole or I’ve done something wrong somewhere.


I really appreciate the help, I’ll be going through the steps mentioned and see if I can find the places I’ve gone wrong.


Ann

[Not a Number]

o since when is shutter speed measured in inches?

The (") is also the symbol from mathematics/geometry/trigonometry/angular measurement for seconds, most commonly used for global map coordinates.

Angle Measurement: Degrees, Minutes, Seconds | Zona Land Education

There are symbols that are used when stating angles using degrees, minutes, and seconds. Those symbols are show below:

Symbol for degree: °

Symbol for minute: '

Symbol for second: "

So, the angle of 40 degrees, 20 minutes, 50 seconds is usually written this way:
notation for 40°, 20', 50"

As noted before using center-weighted metering will give you closer results to what you want as cameras from the Spotmatic era did not use matrix metering. The differences in dynamic range between film and digital may also be a factor in the results you are getting.

[iDon]

Don't forget to turn off automatic shadow/hightlight recovery.
As my first camera was a K2DMD, I understand your feelings about modern DSLRs...

[pepperberry farm]

Pepperberry Farm, you hit the nail on the head, the darn camera takes good pictures in spite of me. I guess a lot of people want that. Whats the world coming to?

I really appreciate the help, I’ll be going through the steps mentioned and see if I can find the places I’ve gone wrong.


Ann

I'm glad you took that in the spirit it was delivered.... and I understand where you are coming from/trying to achieve...


I've found it easier to go fully manual with my K-3 vs my K-50, strangely enough....

[Lord Lucan]

Despite the name, the Spotmatic didn't have spot metering.

The 1960 prototype did, which is why they called it a Spot-Matic. The production models 1965-1975 did not, but Pentax forgot to amend the name (except to drop the hyphen).

[darylk]

Here you go...Dubious digiFilm: Yashica announces one of the weirdest products we’ve ever seen

[Ontarian50]

I once did the math using a typical DSLR.
In the menu you could choose from...
4 exposure modes, x 7 stops of ISO, x 14 white balance settings, x 4 colour modes, x2 colour spaces, x 4 contrast management settings, x 3 vignetting controls, x 5 noise reduction options, x 3 AF release modes, x 5 AF area modes, x 5 focus tracking modes ....

Even ignoring all the other fine tuning possibilities (and basic metering, shutter and aperture settings), this still equals 11,289,600 possible combinations that could be changed for each and every shot (and logically should be changed for each and every shot - because you can)

Shooting RAW certainly takes a load off, knowing you can tweak a whole load of data at your leisure later.

Still, it's a far cry from choosing your roll of film for your Spotmatic, loading it up and doing your best with it for the next 36 shots (that's what, 2-3 weeks of photography?), and then choosing something different for your next roll.

[35mmfilmfan]

As soon as your new DSLR arrives: Step #1, throw away the "quick start" folder; Step #2, throw out any CD's that came with the camera; Step #4 set the mode dial to "M;" step #5. set to "MF:" Step #6: Buy an inexpensive light meter; Step #7, do not ever go online to download a digital manual for the camera.

Step #3, there is no .. .. .. .. Step #3

[ChrisPlatt]

Here you go...Dubious digiFilm: Yashica announces one of the weirdest products we’ve ever seen

Great idea! Apparently many agree, as the Kickstarter campaign has already doubled its goal with more than a month left.

Maybe some innovative camera manufacturer will notice this interest and come up with something better.
Are you listening Kobayashi-san?

Chris

[timw4mail]

Still, it's a far cry from choosing your roll of film for your Spotmatic, loading it up and doing your best with it for the next 36 shots (that's what, 2-3 weeks of photography?), and then choosing something different for your next roll.

Funny how a 36 shot roll seems more than 3x longer than a 12 shot roll...

[WPRESTO]

Step #3, there is no .. .. .. .. Step #3

I skipped that one, thought it was too obvious, but someone offered a step #3 as well as additional steps. Not sure if these are baby or giant steps.