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12-12-2017, 03:48 PM   #16
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This is to just break the text up a bit taken with the K-m the other day. Getting used to the k-5ii but not ready to take it out yet as I have to get more famalier with it.

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12-12-2017, 07:39 PM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Re: firmware, I always update. You can wait a few days or weeks to see if the new firmware is working well for other people, but waiting longer than that seems counterproductive. On the *istD for example I think one of the firmware changes adds support for SDHC cards which nearly all current SD cards are vs plain SD.
The *ist D is the only Pentax DSLR to take CF cards, but apparently you need a firmware update to use a card bigger than 4Gb. The update makes the camera work better with non-A lenses also.
12-12-2017, 07:51 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
The *ist D is the only Pentax DSLR to take CF cards, but apparently you need a firmware update to use a card bigger than 4Gb. The update makes the camera work better with non-A lenses also.
Whoops! I was thinking of the wrong camera on the SD vs. SDHC then. Thanks.
12-19-2017, 10:08 AM   #19
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I seem to be getting milky photo's rather than sharp and clear and have to edit every single photo I was trying the bracketing feature which didn'tmake much difference to the images the difference was so small. Now lets see if I can find the example I left untouched and the enhanced version. The Sigma 28-300 I haven't used before and I had a 1A filter I thought I had a UV filter guess I have to go again.

---------- Post added 12-19-17 at 10:11 AM ----------

In the past I have always used Tamron lens and no filter with my istd and always got good clear shots without the need to edit.

---------- Post added 12-19-17 at 10:13 AM ----------

Might try the full segment metering as well I guess and I'll turn off the bracketing at least I know how that works now,

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12-19-2017, 11:57 AM   #20
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Hard to tell from out here, Kombivan, but is it overexposed or just very low contrast from stray light?

Throw the 'filter' into the sea and have the lens hood on, if it helps.

If that lens is old the coatings won't be as good as a modern one, too - makes a big difference in contrast.

12-19-2017, 12:55 PM   #21
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Looks like flare - I'd drop the filter myself and make certain that you had a lens hood or a shade covering the end of the lens and take some more shots.
12-19-2017, 02:44 PM   #22
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Just found out it was because I didn't have the exposure compensation turned on my sigma lens requires about -2 to get a good exposure and the 20-35 I have requires a -3 to get a proper exposure I think pentax are getting a bit lazy with all these bells and whistles to correct things I am going to have to adapt as I can't function with an auto exposure correction stuffing up my artistic side.

---------- Post added 12-19-17 at 02:46 PM ----------

Unclevanya there was no direct sunlight in one area I was experiencing the problem. I'll get there Clackers
12-19-2017, 03:26 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kombivan Quote
Just found out it was because I didn't have the exposure compensation turned on my sigma lens requires about -2 to get a good exposure and the 20-35 I have requires a -3 to get a proper exposure I think pentax are getting a bit lazy with all these bells and whistles to correct things I am going to have to adapt as I can't function with an auto exposure correction stuffing up my artistic side
if you like, just leave it in Manual, Kombivan, it's not possible for the camera to understand what we're trying to do.

12-19-2017, 03:55 PM - 2 Likes   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kombivan Quote
I did pick up some under $5.00 uv filters that are suppose to correct the old lenses lack of new coating.
Mate, who told you that? They just present another surface for glare to do exactly that ... reduce contrast. Filters that are coated cost way more than $5 (to manufacture, you have to deposit the coating on them in vapour form), and even then, they can't somehow coat all the elements inside an old lens behind them.

Or even worse, these things put artifacts across your image when there's direct sunlight on the front element. UV is not the problem for digital as it might have been in the film age.

I've heard some people say they use one as some sort of substitute for a lens cap ... a layer of physical protection. Ok, if so, take it off while actually shooting. I still think a lens cap does this more robustly and is easier to remove, too.

Last edited by clackers; 12-19-2017 at 04:01 PM.
12-20-2017, 10:42 PM   #25
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Flare isn't all sun induced. Internal flare can occur due to poor coatings and even the dreaded fungus. Anything that scatters light inside the lens can be at fault. I can't recall if you used a filter - if so - ditch it and try again. See with your own eyes if it works better or worse don't take our word for it. Be sure to look at it in 100% zoomed in mode and do some A/B testing. The tests I have done and seen show that particularly at longer focal lengths filters can be a real negative to the overall IQ of a lens system. Really good ghostless multi coated filters are VERY expensive. And even those can cause degradation. The problem seems to be less noticed on shorter focal lengths but still a problem at times. The only filters I will use (other than the edge case I mentioned in micro 4/3 - is a polarizer or a close up lens and technically only one of these is a filter the other is an auxillary lens.)
12-21-2017, 02:35 AM   #26
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With my k-5ii and the k-m I have I have noticed in AV mode the +/- exposure correction doesn't function is this caused because the newer digital cameras only +/- correct using the aperture?

bare in mind km & k-5ii are new to me.

Last edited by Kombivan; 12-22-2017 at 07:18 AM.
12-22-2017, 06:56 AM - 1 Like   #27
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I captured with an 420-800mm lens on my K-5ii whilst out walking today. The tripod I took wasn't my favourite and not real sturty but when using it in salt water wetlands It will have to do. I used green mode with this lens as there was no aperture ring etc on the manual lens with fixed aperture.

First picture White Ibis

The little bird in the middle is the Black-Winged white Headed stilt Bird and deliberately lead me away from her young chicks I wasn't going to pursue them as that is wrong If I had Of Captured them all good but it took me too long to set up.

The last photo was taken from 3/4 of a kilometer just so you have an idea of how the 420-800mm lens performs. These are Black Swans and Pelicans in the distance.

As you can see I am ontop of the overexposure Problem I was having with exposure correction turned off. It is on for this session.
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Last edited by Kombivan; 12-22-2017 at 08:15 AM.
12-23-2017, 11:02 AM   #28
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Just thought I would crop one to see how it looks. I don't know how I am hoing to overcome the manual focus issue as I use reading glasses, but not with the camera.
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12-23-2017, 11:28 AM - 1 Like   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kombivan Quote
Just thought I would crop one to see how it looks. I don't know how I am hoing to overcome the manual focus issue as I use reading glasses, but not with the camera.
Have you tried to use magnified live view?
12-23-2017, 11:48 AM - 2 Likes   #30
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I found one of these to be helpful

PENTAX Magnifier Eyecup O-ME53 reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database

have you tried the view finder diopter adjustment explained on page 58 of the manual

http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/man-pdf/k-5-2.pdf
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