[Kombivan]

Yes I have adjusted that its just a very short depth of field about 2-3' I got the adjuster pretty good but it did take me a while to get used to my old lens but with it I could increase the depth of feild with the aperture ring one day I will get it cleaned out. I have however realised with this photo I was focused on the other bird when this one came into land so that might be the issue with this image. the other images I took yesterday the swaying of the tree tops was exessive of the 2 feet depth of feild so I will just have to get my timing better.

---------- Post added 12-23-17 at 07:23 PM ----------

I found one of these to be helpful

PENTAX Magnifier Eyecup O-ME53 reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database

have you tried the view finder diopter adjustment explained on page 58 of the manual

http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/man-pdf/k-5-2.pdf

Do I need to adjust the eyepiece for each different lens?

[aslyfox]

. . . Do I need to adjust the eyepiece for each different lens?

no
you slide off the original eye piece and replace it with this one:

"Description:
This eye-cup magnifies the viewfinder image 1.18 times. When mounted on a K-7, the viewfinder magnification becomes 1.03x instead of the 0.92x without the magnifier.

Fits the *ist D and all K series DSLRs. "


Read more at: PENTAX Magnifier Eyecup O-ME53 reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database

it affects the view through the viewfinder regardless of what lens you have attached to your camera

[UncleVanya]

The diopter adjustment is to match your vision not the lenses. You look through it with a well focused scene on a tripod (live view, autofocus, or other means used to get it that way) then take the glasses off and look through while adjusting the diopter. When it looks clear leave it that way.

(Or just do it the quick and dirty away, focus handheld and adjust)

[Kombivan]

I found one of these to be helpful

PENTAX Magnifier Eyecup O-ME53 reviews - Pentax Camera Accessory Review Database

have you tried the view finder diopter adjustment explained on page 58 of the manual

http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/man-pdf/k-5-2.pdf

These eye pieces are unreal I didn't know there were lines on my viefinder screen and I can read the stuff inside the viewfinder this is unreal thank you so much Aslyfox and UncleVanya for the suggestions. Thank You.

[UncleVanya]

These eye pieces are unreal I didn't know there were lines on my viefinder screen and I can read the stuff inside the viewfinder this is unreal thank you so much Aslyfox and UncleVanya for the suggestions. Thank You.

LOL - Happy to have helped.

[aslyfox]

LOL - Happy to have helped.

me too

[Kombivan]

Only one problem the rim is different to the standard one and my eyebrow or lashes are forced into the viewfinder area guess it'll be the sissors or the tweesers

[aslyfox]

Only one problem the rim is different to the standard one and my eyebrow or lashes are forced into the viewfinder area guess it'll be the sissors or the tweesers

" I never promised you a rose garden "

You Tube

You Tube

[Kombivan]

Good One I like that

[Kombivan]

I just picked up a K-5 pentax and I am liking it more than the k-5ii I got a while back I should check the photo's first but they look better on the back screen.

Exposures were much better on the k5 so i have set the k5ii up to match and from this point I will try to improve the settings a little. in the info area.

[Kombivan]

Hello as you should have guessed by now I have a dded a K-5 to my kit as well as the K-5ii, and I just put a focusing screen in and I love it. I am also getting a handle of how the in camera flash works. I found in Program mode the flash works ok but in aperture priority mode things get washed out when your using an ISO 2,500 for normal photography as well as flash. I decided to drop my iso indoors to 80 and took a shot in AV mode bit under exposed so I went up to 250 iso and it was just right. thats all it will give you somthing to go and play with if your like me new to digital well the modern digital. I Imagine TV mode would be the same with flash use I have to get used to using the ISO like an aperture or shutter speed but 10 times more sensitive. Cheers.

---------- Post added 02-13-18 at 01:50 AM ----------

I am also finding the 1.4 rear adapter really good especially as it has the 7 contacts on the back for auto focus. I have a 2x rear adapter coming also with 7 contacts on it so it should also auto focus. I have also stopped using the shutter button for focusing I now use the AF botton on the back of the K-5's this way once your focused the camera doesn't try again when you hit the shutter button and I'm finding my electronic focusing has improved using this technique thanks Tim for leaving your old camera set the way you had it.

[UncleVanya]

I'm not following your point about the number of contacts and autofocus. The contacts on the back are for auto-aperture and lens communication but the autofocus requires a couple of additional things. Namely a screw drive shaft and/or the PowerZoom/SDM contacts. So a Pentax SMC A 1.4x Converter won't provide Autofocus, but an HD DA 1.4x will for example.

https://www.ephotozine.com/articles/pentax-hd-pentax-da-af-1-4x-aw-rear-conv...1402652272.jpg

The seven contacts only provide the data pin, the max aperture, and the "auto" aperture selection (on or off by way of retracting or pushing it in contact). The two gold pins inside the mount to the top are the SDM/PowerZoom contacts. The slotted item to the top above the gold pins is the screw drive slot. Not sure if you knew all this already just trying to clarify what you meant.

[mikesbike]

Your auto ISO range is only for being in modes where the camera will set the ISO automatically. But you can simply set whatever ISO you desire when being in other modes by hitting the ISO button. If you hit the info button twice, the quick links for adjustments will come up, including the auto ISO range. I have my K-5 and K-5 IIs set for a range of 100-3200. But by hitting the ISO button on top, I can set ISO 6400, or 8,000 or 10,000 if I would care to. It will then be and stay in that manual setting until you change modes to an auto mode which requires the camera to set ISO automatically.

As to underexposures, the K-5 series cameras tend to underexpose by about 1/3 EV by my estimation. Better than their predecessors the K-200D and K-20D, which would underexpose by 1/2 to 3/4 EV. Just how this will impact the actual result is matter of the lighting and metering in a particular circumstance. I just took a shot of my indoor scene, in a room having a very large picture window on the left wall, no sunlight coming directly in, but a very bright afternoon. Some light, but mostly darker furniture. No artificial lighting. ISO is 1600. The matrix meter did a good job. In P mode, "0" exposure comp set, the window, which took up about 1/3 of the frame on the extreme left to middle, using the DA 21mm Limited lens, is a white-out, while the rest of the room is perfectly exposed. If I had people in the room, this would be ideal, without my having to fiddle around. So the meter produced a good balance between the extreme bright area and the darker areas, tending to overexpose the bright while opening up the rest of the scene just right. But for most more evenly lit scenes, I may very well have exposure comp set at +1/3 EV.

You can go to the Custom Functions menu (C menus) and set EV steps to 1/3 if not already so. In the same menu, you can set ISO sensitivity steps to be likewise as EV steps.

The K-5 series are excellent cameras. I don't know what you've found you like better about the K-5 over the K-5 II, since the II offers faster, more accurate AF with some lenses. I added the K-5 IIs since it eliminated the AA filter, which has resulted in sharper fine detail. Be sure also to set F for Fine Sharpening in your Custom Image menu.

[Kombivan]

I'm not following your point about the number of contacts and autofocus. The contacts on the back are for auto-aperture and lens communication but the autofocus requires a couple of additional things. Namely a screw drive shaft and/or the PowerZoom/SDM contacts. So a Pentax SMC A 1.4x Converter won't provide Autofocus, but an HD DA 1.4x will for example.

https://www.ephotozine.com/articles/pentax-hd-pentax-da-af-1-4x-aw-rear-conv...1402652272.jpg

The seven contacts only provide the data pin, the max aperture, and the "auto" aperture selection (on or off by way of retracting or pushing it in contact). The two gold pins inside the mount to the top are the SDM/PowerZoom contacts. The slotted item to the top above the gold pins is the screw drive slot. Not sure if you knew all this already just trying to clarify what you meant.

well if there are only 6 it won't auto focus number 3 or 4 might be missing but I buy my stuff on ebay so I am looking at images to assertain the features and it took a while to work out the 7th contact is the AF thats all.

---------- Post added 02-13-18 at 07:17 PM ----------

Your auto ISO range is only for being in modes where the camera will set the ISO automatically. But you can simply set whatever ISO you desire when being in other modes by hitting the ISO button. If you hit the info button twice, the quick links for adjustments will come up, including the auto ISO range. I have my K-5 and K-5 IIs set for a range of 100-3200. But by hitting the ISO button on top, I can set ISO 6400, or 8,000 or 10,000 if I would care to. It will then be and stay in that manual setting until you change modes to an auto mode which requires the camera to set ISO automatically.

As to underexposures, the K-5 series cameras tend to underexpose by about 1/3 EV by my estimation. Better than their predecessors the K-200D and K-20D, which would underexpose by 1/2 to 3/4 EV. Just how this will impact the actual result is matter of the lighting and metering in a particular circumstance. I just took a shot of my indoor scene, in a room having a very large picture window on the left wall, no sunlight coming directly in, but a very bright afternoon. Some light, but mostly darker furniture. No artificial lighting. ISO is 1600. The matrix meter did a good job. In P mode, "0" exposure comp set, the window, which took up about 1/3 of the frame on the extreme left to middle, using the DA 21mm Limited lens, is a white-out, while the rest of the room is perfectly exposed. If I had people in the room, this would be ideal, without my having to fiddle around. So the meter produced a good balance between the extreme bright area and the darker areas, tending to overexpose the bright while opening up the rest of the scene just right. But for most more evenly lit scenes, I may very well have exposure comp set at +1/3 EV.

You can go to the Custom Functions menu (C menus) and set EV steps to 1/3 if not already so. In the same menu, you can set ISO sensitivity steps to be likewise as EV steps.

The K-5 series are excellent cameras. I don't know what you've found you like better about the K-5 over the K-5 II, since the II offers faster, more accurate AF with some lenses. I added the K-5 IIs since it eliminated the AA filter, which has resulted in sharper fine detail. Be sure also to set F for Fine Sharpening in your Custom Image menu.

Thank you for the F tip I have found my cameras to be spot on with the exposure =/- settings however using a zoom lens on AV mode when I zoom in I am loosing some light so I may need to close the aperture a little to see if that corrects the problem. I am using the full 80-51,000 ISO range and I like it but I set it manually. I will have a look which modes utilize the lot possibly green mode.

Also the Tawny Frogmouth is sitting on the shaded side of the tree being the reason its a little darker than you would expect.

[UncleVanya]

Seven contacts is a characteristic of the early KAF mount, but this may help give more context:

The Evolution of the Pentax K-mount - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com