[BigMackCam]

With a K5 can't you just filter the noise? A K5ii hasn't got the filter on the sensor as well so it should even be clearer these articles would have been written for cameras like the K10D where the noise is quiet loud like many other early cameras.

The purpose of the filters on camera sensors has nothing to do with noise.

The sensors in most digital cameras have a Bayer array filter, or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, their own X-Trans equivalent. Additionally, older cameras (and some current models too) have an anti-aliasing ("AA") filter to reduce the effect of moiré and other artefacts that can occur as a result of demosaicing (it is the "AA" filter that has been removed in the K5IIs - the K5II still has one). Removing the "AA" filter leads to sharper images, but increases the risk of moiré.

The following article is helpful in understanding how digital sensors and these filters work:

Understanding Digital Camera Sensors

As for noise...

The sensor is not 100% efficient and produces a certain amount of electrical noise that is mixed in with the data it outputs. There is very little noise, but there is some - even if it's not obvious. When you select a higher ISO setting (because light levels are lower), what you're doing is instructing the camera to amplify the output from the sensor. The problem is, the noise is amplified too. The higher the ISO setting, the greater the amplification. The greater the amplification, the greater the noise.

The noise can be reduced via the in-camera JPEG engine, which converts RAW sensor data into JPEG images. Or, you can process RAW files yourself in software to achieve a similar (usually better) result.

Newer sensors produce less noise than older sensors, generally, as the technology is constantly improving. But even the very latest sensors output some noise at base ISO (even if you think you can't see it, it's there).

The latest cameras such as the K-70, KP and forthcoming K-1II use a new "image accelerator" processor which I believe reduces the amount of noise from the sensor before it is recorded and processed. It seems to be very effective.

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Last edited by BigMackCam; 03-16-2018 at 10:05 AM.

[Kombivan]

and if you shoot into light areas the noise in little and abundant in the darker areas

[Photobill]

My two cents
After reading the post I am not sure if you have decided that your two cameras are working right???
I would suggest this.
Mount camera #1 on tripod.
Use a modern Da lens (if you have one)
Set camera to green full auto! (This will allow the camera to make what it thinks is the proper exposure)
Take five photos with deferent targets (this will make the camera adjust exposures)
Mount camera #2 on tripod
Use the same lens you used on camera #1
Also set camera to fully auto and repeat the same photos
Review photos on a monitor (don't review on the screen of the camera)
If you have a program that will allow you to access the histogram you can compare them as well (the histogram is a great tool to determine proper exposure)
This should tell you rather you have a camera issue. The photos will not be exactly the same because you do not have control over the lighting during the test shots and each camera model will have slight variation's. But they should be very close. If they are close than I would say they are working properly.
Now you could repeat test by adding one new peace at a time (multipliers, lens & so forth)
I think with controlled testing your much more likely to resolve any issue's with camera, lens or multipliers.
Best of luck!!!

[Kombivan]

Thats real good photobill when I get the other camera back I will try this but I do know for sure the 1.4x converter is messin with the camera. and I need a long session to make sure the camera isn't failing when it works hard. Exposures look good with this k5 now. when I do a sunrise or sunset I get carried away 100 per hour easy thats when I have to check my cameras. I was using the 1.4x without a problem at first it was after I took it off but now its also when I put it on.

[Photobill]

One thing to remember shooting directly into the sun for prolonged periods could damage the cameras sensor. We had an eclipse a couple of months ago in the US and I know a couple of photographers that damaged there cameras because the did not use the proper filters. Nothing wrong with taking 100+ photos an hour and it will not hurt the camera (I shoot a K3II @ 10 fps when shooting sports) with no side affects. But shooting the sun is one thing that could harm the camera!!!
The problem with the x1.4 could be as simple as dirty contact.

[Kombivan]

Tell me more about sensor damage when shooting into the sun as I love shooting into the sun.

I have a fiberglass contact cleaner.

What about a converter used shooting into the sun that would be harmful I guess.

I have ND and Polarising filters which are required too shoot the sun?

[Photobill]

Take a look at this article

How to Photograph the Sun | B&H Explora