I just got a new s/h K-5 II body

Kombivan · 02-27-2018, 07:39 AM

Bright settings z,z,z,+1,+1. Handheld.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

Kombivan · 02-28-2018, 01:40 AM

The last Photo is bad any suggestions to help with the excess glare?

MrB1 · 02-28-2018, 04:19 AM

Originally posted by Kombivan

The last Photo is bad any suggestions to help with the excess glare?

Why point the camera directly at the sun when it is well above the horizon? Never mind the camera, isn't that dangerous for the eyes?

Why have the ISO set at 400? - You have the lens set to its widest aperture and the camera cannot increase the shutter speed any more, as it is at its maximum of 1/8000s.

Kombivan · 02-28-2018, 11:10 AM

I went out just to test the camera and get use to it as I am not at all used to these K-5's yet and shooting into the sun is somthing I have been doing for 20 years as long as your quick at it I have 20/20 vision at 62 and just need reading glasses for reading which was caused by hours on a computer with a bright screen I now always use purple backgrounds on my computers it soft on the eyes.. and 400 is high but I just wanted to see the results testing the limits so to speak and I can look at theme here in my own little thread The photos are in bright mode settings but the pelican on the net and the house are in natural mode settings pretty much all set to zero..

MrB1 · 02-28-2018, 01:19 PM - **1 Like**

In these posts there seems to be little evidence of rational thought or methodical procedure being applied to testing the camera, so I'm leaving this thread somewhat disappointed by the amount of time I've spent trying to make some sense of it all. From the confusing examples with odd camera settings presented here, it seems impossible to make a definitive decision about the camera, but I suspect there is nothing wrong with it.

Kombivan · 02-28-2018, 01:40 PM

1/3/18

Kombivan · 02-28-2018, 01:45 PM

1/3/18

---------- Post added 03-01-18 at 07:59 AM ----------

I can't post all the photo's I've taken so I just pic a few from the same session and I don't think my camera is reporting correctly to the exif or what the camera does isn't what its told to do.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

Kombivan · 02-28-2018, 08:13 PM

I don't think I will update firmware again.

Kombivan · 02-28-2018, 10:38 PM

Originally posted by Kombivan

Its doing weird stuff. Check these two 0.3 or o.7 apart. Maybe I could sell them as bushfire photo's I'm using aperture poriorty 80 iso 3.5f its at sunrise in the shade these photo's are not right. The settings in the EXIF aren't even reading correctly.

The problem here is that the iso should be about 2000 instead of 80. The iso in the dslr cameras is nothing like the iso in film cameras in film you drop the iso to get better detail with ISO you increase the iso to get more detail and as a bonus you get a faster shutter speed avoiding camera shake. Very happy with this find. this is why some images look blan with the background you need more ISO for an overcast day set to cloud and ISO 2000 will give good background detail 800 won't. let alone 80.

Bear in mind I'm having issues with my camera's.

---------- Post added 03-01-18 at 05:24 PM ----------

so drop ISO into sun. Raise it with the sun filtered behind an object. and at sunrise when you turn 90-180 degrees to get the sun hitting the landscape open the iso up some more.

When I start shooting a sunrise or sunset I shoot about 200 photo's an hour I need to slow down and start checking settings as the iso will cause massive changes when I change direction of shooting which is what has occured above. and instead of an aperture block I am experencing a mental block. In saying this I still have the exposure issue with my k-5ii as it exposes correctly at -2.7ev.

Kombivan · 03-13-2018, 08:54 PM

The problem here was the 1.4x sigma convertor was some how confusing the camera with multipul focal lengths for the same lens ID a camera reset or 2 should fix this problem then just set your camera up again and take note of your settings before a reset if it was working the way you liked it to work before the bug massed things up. This bug might not occur after the v107 firmware in the k5ii but I am totally unsure about this as I haven't tested this theory yet as I don't have my k5ii back yet.

**BigMackCam** · 03-14-2018, 09:34 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Kombivan

The iso in the dslr cameras is nothing like the iso in film cameras in film you drop the iso to get better detail with ISO you increase the iso to get more detail and as a bonus you get a faster shutter speed avoiding camera shake. Very happy with this find. this is why some images look blan with the background you need more ISO for an overcast day set to cloud and ISO 2000 will give good background detail 800 won't. let alone 80.

With respect, that's not actually the case. Selecting a lower ISO setting on a digital camera reduces the sensitivity to light, and a higher ISO increases the sensitivity - just like switching to lower or higher ISO film in a film camera. As you increase the ISO setting, that will also increase the amount of noise in the recorded image, which negatively impacts detail. It will also reduce the dynamic range that the camera can record, but that's a separate discussion.

You might occasionally have a perception of slightly greater detail at higher ISO settings due to the fine luminance noise it introduces, but that's an illusion caused by the way your eyes and brain interpret the picture. In fact, the detail is reduced. For maximum detail, you need to use the lowest ISO setting practical for the shot.

You're quite right that increasing the ISO will allow you to use a faster shutter speed for any given aperture setting. If you're at ISO 100, with the aperture at f/5.6 and a shutter speed of 1/80s gives correct exposure, when you increase ISO to 200, you'll use a shutter speed of 1/160s at the same aperture. It's the classic "exposure triangle" of ISO, aperture & shutter spped.

Hope this helps

Kombivan · 03-14-2018, 09:51 PM

Never heard it called an exposure triangle before. I Just got another camera and its taking beautiful photo's real pictures without any washout so I will be comparing settings from this camera to the other one. when I was talking about a higher Iso range I was only meaning the 1600 - 2500 iso range as I was surprised at the detail I was getting however the other day in one image of ducks on a pond I saw how the ripples in the water were extremely exaggerated by a faster iso. I think the movement in the ripples shortened their exposure time through movement as well as the high iso this could be why some photographers are getting some striking ripple effects. Or It could have been the sky reflected in the brown water creating blueish ripples. or Freezing it for the shorter time to capture the blue without loosing it to the brown as the ripple moves on with a slower exposure.

**BigMackCam** · 03-15-2018, 01:35 AM

Originally posted by Kombivan

Never heard it called an exposure triangle before. I Just got another camera and its taking beautiful photo's real pictures without any washout so I will be comparing settings from this camera to the other one. when I was talking about a higher Iso range I was only meaning the 1600 - 2500 iso range as I was surprised at the detail I was getting however the other day in one image of ducks on a pond I saw how the ripples in the water were extremely exaggerated by a faster iso. I think the movement in the ripples shortened their exposure time through movement as well as the high iso this could be why some photographers are getting some striking ripple effects. Or It could have been the sky reflected in the brown water creating blueish ripples. or Freezing it for the shorter time to capture the blue without loosing it to the brown as the ripple moves on with a slower exposure.

It's worth reading this article on exposure (which refers to the exposure triangle). It covers the motion blur / motion freezing concept you mentioned with the ripples in the water too. Although increasing ISO doesn't in itself freeze motion, it allows for a faster shutter speed at the same aperture, and the faster shutter speed will freeze motion better.

Kombivan · 03-16-2018, 12:40 AM

Thank you BigMacCam there should be some new things on that page for me in camera editing etc thank you.

I got to near the last paragraph in digital exposure techniques and it all went out the window I'm just going to have to learn this hands on I appreciate the article but I can't read it past a stress level. It was stressful as they didn't clearly explain the method hands on with taking photo's to the right and overlaying them etc. I think I will just plod along but thanks again for the article. It will come to me later.

Kombivan · 03-16-2018, 09:00 AM

With a K5 can't you just filter the noise? A K5ii hasn't got the filter on the sensor as well so it should even be clearer these articles would have been written for cameras like the K10D where the noise is quiet loud like many other early cameras.

03-14-2018, 09:34 AM - 1 Like	#86
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,674	Originally posted by Kombivan The iso in the dslr cameras is nothing like the iso in film cameras in film you drop the iso to get better detail with ISO you increase the iso to get more detail and as a bonus you get a faster shutter speed avoiding camera shake. Very happy with this find. this is why some images look blan with the background you need more ISO for an overcast day set to cloud and ISO 2000 will give good background detail 800 won't. let alone 80. With respect, that's not actually the case. Selecting a lower ISO setting on a digital camera reduces the sensitivity to light, and a higher ISO increases the sensitivity - just like switching to lower or higher ISO film in a film camera. As you increase the ISO setting, that will also increase the amount of noise in the recorded image, which negatively impacts detail. It will also reduce the dynamic range that the camera can record, but that's a separate discussion. You might occasionally have a perception of slightly greater detail at higher ISO settings due to the fine luminance noise it introduces, but that's an illusion caused by the way your eyes and brain interpret the picture. In fact, the detail is reduced. For maximum detail, you need to use the lowest ISO setting practical for the shot. You're quite right that increasing the ISO will allow you to use a faster shutter speed for any given aperture setting. If you're at ISO 100, with the aperture at f/5.6 and a shutter speed of 1/80s gives correct exposure, when you increase ISO to 200, you'll use a shutter speed of 1/160s at the same aperture. It's the classic "exposure triangle" of ISO, aperture & shutter spped. Hope this helps Last edited by BigMackCam; 03-14-2018 at 09:49 AM.

03-14-2018, 09:51 PM	#87
Kombivan Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 576 Original Poster	Never heard it called an exposure triangle before. I Just got another camera and its taking beautiful photo's real pictures without any washout so I will be comparing settings from this camera to the other one. when I was talking about a higher Iso range I was only meaning the 1600 - 2500 iso range as I was surprised at the detail I was getting however the other day in one image of ducks on a pond I saw how the ripples in the water were extremely exaggerated by a faster iso. I think the movement in the ripples shortened their exposure time through movement as well as the high iso this could be why some photographers are getting some striking ripple effects. Or It could have been the sky reflected in the brown water creating blueish ripples. or Freezing it for the shorter time to capture the blue without loosing it to the brown as the ripple moves on with a slower exposure. Last edited by Kombivan; 03-14-2018 at 11:55 PM.

03-16-2018, 12:40 AM	#89
Kombivan Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 576 Original Poster	Thank you BigMacCam there should be some new things on that page for me in camera editing etc thank you. I got to near the last paragraph in digital exposure techniques and it all went out the window I'm just going to have to learn this hands on I appreciate the article but I can't read it past a stress level. It was stressful as they didn't clearly explain the method hands on with taking photo's to the right and overlaying them etc. I think I will just plod along but thanks again for the article. It will come to me later. Last edited by Kombivan; 03-16-2018 at 07:43 AM.

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02-28-2018, 04:19 AM	#78
MrB1 Pentaxian Join Date: May 2013 Location: Hertfordshire, England Posts: 845	Originally posted by Kombivan The last Photo is bad any suggestions to help with the excess glare? Why point the camera directly at the sun when it is well above the horizon? Never mind the camera, isn't that dangerous for the eyes? Why have the ISO set at 400? - You have the lens set to its widest aperture and the camera cannot increase the shutter speed any more, as it is at its maximum of 1/8000s.

02-28-2018, 11:10 AM	#79
Kombivan Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 576 Original Poster	I went out just to test the camera and get use to it as I am not at all used to these K-5's yet and shooting into the sun is somthing I have been doing for 20 years as long as your quick at it I have 20/20 vision at 62 and just need reading glasses for reading which was caused by hours on a computer with a bright screen I now always use purple backgrounds on my computers it soft on the eyes.. and 400 is high but I just wanted to see the results testing the limits so to speak and I can look at theme here in my own little thread The photos are in bright mode settings but the pelican on the net and the house are in natural mode settings pretty much all set to zero..

02-28-2018, 01:19 PM - 1 Like	#80
MrB1 Pentaxian Join Date: May 2013 Location: Hertfordshire, England Posts: 845	In these posts there seems to be little evidence of rational thought or methodical procedure being applied to testing the camera, so I'm leaving this thread somewhat disappointed by the amount of time I've spent trying to make some sense of it all. From the confusing examples with odd camera settings presented here, it seems impossible to make a definitive decision about the camera, but I suspect there is nothing wrong with it.

02-28-2018, 08:13 PM	#83
Kombivan Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 576 Original Poster	I don't think I will update firmware again.

02-28-2018, 10:38 PM	#84
Kombivan Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 576 Original Poster	Originally posted by Kombivan Its doing weird stuff. Check these two 0.3 or o.7 apart. Maybe I could sell them as bushfire photo's I'm using aperture poriorty 80 iso 3.5f its at sunrise in the shade these photo's are not right. The settings in the EXIF aren't even reading correctly. The problem here is that the iso should be about 2000 instead of 80. The iso in the dslr cameras is nothing like the iso in film cameras in film you drop the iso to get better detail with ISO you increase the iso to get more detail and as a bonus you get a faster shutter speed avoiding camera shake. Very happy with this find. this is why some images look blan with the background you need more ISO for an overcast day set to cloud and ISO 2000 will give good background detail 800 won't. let alone 80. Bear in mind I'm having issues with my camera's. ---------- Post added 03-01-18 at 05:24 PM ---------- so drop ISO into sun. Raise it with the sun filtered behind an object. and at sunrise when you turn 90-180 degrees to get the sun hitting the landscape open the iso up some more. When I start shooting a sunrise or sunset I shoot about 200 photo's an hour I need to slow down and start checking settings as the iso will cause massive changes when I change direction of shooting which is what has occured above. and instead of an aperture block I am experencing a mental block. In saying this I still have the exposure issue with my k-5ii as it exposes correctly at -2.7ev.

03-13-2018, 08:54 PM	#85
Kombivan Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 576 Original Poster	The problem here was the 1.4x sigma convertor was some how confusing the camera with multipul focal lengths for the same lens ID a camera reset or 2 should fix this problem then just set your camera up again and take note of your settings before a reset if it was working the way you liked it to work before the bug massed things up. This bug might not occur after the v107 firmware in the k5ii but I am totally unsure about this as I haven't tested this theory yet as I don't have my k5ii back yet.

03-15-2018, 01:35 AM	#88
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,674	Originally posted by Kombivan Never heard it called an exposure triangle before. I Just got another camera and its taking beautiful photo's real pictures without any washout so I will be comparing settings from this camera to the other one. when I was talking about a higher Iso range I was only meaning the 1600 - 2500 iso range as I was surprised at the detail I was getting however the other day in one image of ducks on a pond I saw how the ripples in the water were extremely exaggerated by a faster iso. I think the movement in the ripples shortened their exposure time through movement as well as the high iso this could be why some photographers are getting some striking ripple effects. Or It could have been the sky reflected in the brown water creating blueish ripples. or Freezing it for the shorter time to capture the blue without loosing it to the brown as the ripple moves on with a slower exposure. It's worth reading this article on exposure (which refers to the exposure triangle). It covers the motion blur / motion freezing concept you mentioned with the ripples in the water too. Although increasing ISO doesn't in itself freeze motion, it allows for a faster shutter speed at the same aperture, and the faster shutter speed will freeze motion better.

03-16-2018, 09:00 AM	#90
Kombivan Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 576 Original Poster	With a K5 can't you just filter the noise? A K5ii hasn't got the filter on the sensor as well so it should even be clearer these articles would have been written for cameras like the K10D where the noise is quiet loud like many other early cameras.