Anyone Work With Plastic?

**AggieDad** · 12-31-2017, 04:47 PM

I need a little help.

The memory card door on my K-5II broke into two parts and I need to put it together. Fortunately the break is clean and the pieces fit together perfectly. Unfortunately, the cost to replace it at any camera repair facility will be pretty high.

My plan is to use a piece of plastic on the outside of the door as a splice overlapping the two pieces. This will give me a goodly sized contact surface for glueing.

My question is this: What adhesive (type, brand) will work best with the type of plastic (I don't know what it is) that the camera is made of?

I eagerly await your sage advice.

Many thanks,

Don

Last edited by AggieDad; 12-31-2017 at 09:29 PM.

honey bo bo · 12-31-2017, 05:10 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by AggieDad

I need a little help.

The memory card door on my K-5II broke into two parts and I need to put it together. Fortunately the break is clean and the pieces fit together perfectly. Unfortunately, the cost to replace it at any camera repair facility will pretty high.

My plan is to use a piece of plastic on the outside of the door as a splice overlapping the two pieces. This will give me a goodly sized contact surface for glueing.

My question is this: What adhesive (type, brand) will work best with the type of plastic (I don't know what it is) that the camera is made of?

I eagerly await your sage advice.

Many thanks,

Don

Gorilla Super Glue. I've used it on different plastics including a tripod head. Much better than Crazy glue more permanent. I don't think I would even use a splice. Make sure crack is covered good hold together for a few minutes then let it sit overnight without any pressure or movement on it. Good Luck. Don't get any on you though it does bind extremely well.

sqrrl · 12-31-2017, 06:00 PM

Seconded, If that doesn't work then nothing will - I would use a splice personally. Make sure you don't get it anywhere near glass - the fumes can cloud glass.

Not a Number · 12-31-2017, 06:47 PM

Search the internet for "superglue and baking soda" This will leave a super hard welt from the glue that you'll need to file down before sand paper finishing. Cures instantly with the baking soda. Do not get any glue on the weather seals,

If you splice / splint a piece of plastic over the crack I'd suggest JB Plastic Weld. The drawback is that is a tan / cream color. Make sure the surfaces are clean and roughed up with like some #220 wet-dry sand paper (the black stuff). This is essential for a good bond.

**alfa75ts** · 12-31-2017, 07:16 PM

First off, try uscamera they have one for the K5/K7 which probably fits the K5II. pentax-k5-k7-cf-card-cover

Otherwise, acetone melts ABS plastic and will give you a plastic to plastic bond rather than a plastic to glue to plastic bond.

It will be much slower to cure (day/s) but should be a stronger bond.

**patrick9** · 12-31-2017, 08:25 PM

Shame you are not closer. I repair plastic in my line of work. Cars are so many types of plastic anymore.3M makes a metal bond (8115) that should work to repair the door. That is what is used to hold corvettes inner structures together. Just need to be careful not to drip any into the battery compartment or onto the metal contacts. It will be permanent. Takes 24 hrs for full cure but is set in 4 hours . A good bodyman should be able to put it back together for you. You could buy it but it and the gun get expensive for such a small amount that you need.

honey bo bo · 12-31-2017, 08:40 PM

Originally posted by Not a Number

Search the internet for "superglue and baking soda" This will leave a super hard welt from the glue that you'll need to file down before sand paper finishing. Cures instantly with the baking soda. Do not get any glue on the weather seals,

If you splice / splint a piece of plastic over the crack I'd suggest JB Plastic Weld. The drawback is that is a tan / cream color. Make sure the surfaces are clean and roughed up with like some #220 wet-dry sand paper (the black stuff). This is essential for a good bond.

I can attest to the hardness of Gorilla Super Glue. I had (3) L109 batteries from another Camera so that I could use them in My K3 I super glued hard sponge to the back so they would fit in my grip where a L190 would normally go . They worked fine. But my son just bought a K S-2 which takes the L109's so I decided to give them to him. Well I thought it was just a matter of ripping the sponge off and away we go.

Not so. I tried using a knife to scrape and then sandpaper

; I finally ended up with fine metal file so that I could remove enough of the glue so the batteries would fit properly in his K S-2 battery chamber

. The baking soda is new to me and a good idea especially when you have to build up stock or reinforce your weld.

Last edited by honey bo bo; 01-01-2018 at 01:50 PM.

**UncleVanya** · 12-31-2017, 10:36 PM

There are numerous liquids that melt the plastic for a strong plastic to plastic bond rather than a glue joint.

honey bo bo · 01-01-2018, 06:41 AM

Originally posted by UncleVanya

There are numerous liquids that melt the plastic for a strong plastic to plastic bond rather than a glue joint.

I have found that different plastic melt methods change the dimensions too much usually where size & shape matters.

**UncleVanya** · 01-01-2018, 07:43 AM

Originally posted by honey bo bo

I have found that different plastic melt methods change the dimensions too much usually where size & shape matters.

In another hobby (rocketry) I have used it quite a bit. Plastic fins guess using any other method will never hold. However they don't need precision to fly just strength and reasonably clean shapes.

Tako Kichi · 01-01-2018, 09:52 AM

If you have a model shop nearby try Tamiya plastic cement. It's a liquid glue that comes in a jar with a brush and is used by plastic model builders to glue plastic parts together. It's a solvent type adhesive and will weld the parts together making the joint as strong as the parent parts. It may be that even the tiny brush supplied will be too large so I would suggest using a cocktail stick or toothpick to apply the adhesive. Coat one edge, align the parts with a little finger pressure and the adhesive will cure in a few seconds.

Not a Number · 01-01-2018, 10:09 AM

The trick is usually finding the proper solvent for the plastic. Superglues (cyanoacrylates) do work at a molecular level which is why normally very small amounts should be used. Something like JB Plastic weld adheres to most plastics.:

Polymer Guide: If you seek solvation

Bad Boy · 01-01-2018, 11:41 AM

If someone here can confirm what type of plastic it is then the best glue can be selected.

Gorilla Super Glue is good for most plastics.

Some plastics dissolve in solvent others do not. If it is ABS plastic it dissolves acetone. ABS cement made with acetone and ABS, used for ABS pipe joints, would be the best. I have had great success with it on motorcycle body work. The glue is as strong as the original and can be built up in layers of liquid and can be shaped after is dries.

Does anyone know the type of plastic used?

**c.perkins** · 01-01-2018, 03:10 PM

If you know the basics of stick welding in the old days or just welding two pieces together, I have repaired a lot of plastic using a soldering iron and a proper tip.

Been doing it for years.

It may not look great when done but will hold like it never broke in the first place if done right.

Cosmetically afterwards you could apply some two part epoxy and smooth it down and paint/color it to match.

Just a thought.

Clarence

**AggieDad** · 01-01-2018, 09:39 PM

Many thanks for all the suggestions.

My reason for he post is that my personal experience with glue for plastic dates back to the 1960s when I was messing around with model railroading. So I really had no idea about what modern adhesives would be best.

It seems as though the favorite is Gorilla Super Glue. However I am a bit confused. I thought all super glues were 100% ethyl cyanoacrylate. Is the Gorilla Glue version different?

Originally posted by c.perkins

If you know the basics of stick welding in the old days or just welding two pieces together, I have repaired a lot of plastic using a soldering iron and a proper tip.

My problem is time I used a soldering iron was building a crystal radio back when I was in Boy Scouts. I don’t think this is the best place to try to re-hone my skills.

If my repair ever works, I’ll post a photo. If it doesn’t work there will be silence about it.

12-31-2017, 04:47 PM	#1
AggieDad Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Houston, TX Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,453	Anyone Work With Plastic? I need a little help. The memory card door on my K-5II broke into two parts and I need to put it together. Fortunately the break is clean and the pieces fit together perfectly. Unfortunately, the cost to replace it at any camera repair facility will be pretty high. My plan is to use a piece of plastic on the outside of the door as a splice overlapping the two pieces. This will give me a goodly sized contact surface for glueing. My question is this: What adhesive (type, brand) will work best with the type of plastic (I don't know what it is) that the camera is made of? I eagerly await your sage advice. Many thanks, Don Last edited by AggieDad; 12-31-2017 at 09:29 PM.

12-31-2017, 08:40 PM	#7
honey bo bo Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 768	Originally posted by Not a Number Search the internet for "superglue and baking soda" This will leave a super hard welt from the glue that you'll need to file down before sand paper finishing. Cures instantly with the baking soda. Do not get any glue on the weather seals, If you splice / splint a piece of plastic over the crack I'd suggest JB Plastic Weld. The drawback is that is a tan / cream color. Make sure the surfaces are clean and roughed up with like some #220 wet-dry sand paper (the black stuff). This is essential for a good bond. I can attest to the hardness of Gorilla Super Glue. I had (3) L109 batteries from another Camera so that I could use them in My K3 I super glued hard sponge to the back so they would fit in my grip where a L190 would normally go . They worked fine. But my son just bought a K S-2 which takes the L109's so I decided to give them to him. Well I thought it was just a matter of ripping the sponge off and away we go. Not so. I tried using a knife to scrape and then sandpaper; I finally ended up with fine metal file so that I could remove enough of the glue so the batteries would fit properly in his K S-2 battery chamber. The baking soda is new to me and a good idea especially when you have to build up stock or reinforce your weld. Last edited by honey bo bo; 01-01-2018 at 01:50 PM.

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12-31-2017, 05:10 PM - 1 Like	#2
honey bo bo Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 768	Originally posted by AggieDad I need a little help. The memory card door on my K-5II broke into two parts and I need to put it together. Fortunately the break is clean and the pieces fit together perfectly. Unfortunately, the cost to replace it at any camera repair facility will pretty high. My plan is to use a piece of plastic on the outside of the door as a splice overlapping the two pieces. This will give me a goodly sized contact surface for glueing. My question is this: What adhesive (type, brand) will work best with the type of plastic (I don't know what it is) that the camera is made of? I eagerly await your sage advice. Many thanks, Don Gorilla Super Glue. I've used it on different plastics including a tripod head. Much better than Crazy glue more permanent. I don't think I would even use a splice. Make sure crack is covered good hold together for a few minutes then let it sit overnight without any pressure or movement on it. Good Luck. Don't get any on you though it does bind extremely well.

12-31-2017, 06:00 PM	#3
sqrrl Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Otago, New Zealand Posts: 422	Seconded, If that doesn't work then nothing will - I would use a splice personally. Make sure you don't get it anywhere near glass - the fumes can cloud glass.

12-31-2017, 06:47 PM	#4
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	Search the internet for "superglue and baking soda" This will leave a super hard welt from the glue that you'll need to file down before sand paper finishing. Cures instantly with the baking soda. Do not get any glue on the weather seals, If you splice / splint a piece of plastic over the crack I'd suggest JB Plastic Weld. The drawback is that is a tan / cream color. Make sure the surfaces are clean and roughed up with like some #220 wet-dry sand paper (the black stuff). This is essential for a good bond.

12-31-2017, 07:16 PM	#5
alfa75ts Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Melbourne Australia Photos: Albums Posts: 1,356	First off, try uscamera they have one for the K5/K7 which probably fits the K5II. pentax-k5-k7-cf-card-cover Otherwise, acetone melts ABS plastic and will give you a plastic to plastic bond rather than a plastic to glue to plastic bond. It will be much slower to cure (day/s) but should be a stronger bond.

12-31-2017, 08:25 PM	#6
patrick9 Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Murfreesboro Tennessee Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,458	Shame you are not closer. I repair plastic in my line of work. Cars are so many types of plastic anymore.3M makes a metal bond (8115) that should work to repair the door. That is what is used to hold corvettes inner structures together. Just need to be careful not to drip any into the battery compartment or onto the metal contacts. It will be permanent. Takes 24 hrs for full cure but is set in 4 hours . A good bodyman should be able to put it back together for you. You could buy it but it and the gun get expensive for such a small amount that you need.

12-31-2017, 10:36 PM	#8
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,404	There are numerous liquids that melt the plastic for a strong plastic to plastic bond rather than a glue joint.

01-01-2018, 06:41 AM	#9
honey bo bo Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 768	Originally posted by UncleVanya There are numerous liquids that melt the plastic for a strong plastic to plastic bond rather than a glue joint. I have found that different plastic melt methods change the dimensions too much usually where size & shape matters.

01-01-2018, 07:43 AM	#10
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,404	Originally posted by honey bo bo I have found that different plastic melt methods change the dimensions too much usually where size & shape matters. In another hobby (rocketry) I have used it quite a bit. Plastic fins guess using any other method will never hold. However they don't need precision to fly just strength and reasonably clean shapes.

01-01-2018, 09:52 AM	#11
Tako Kichi Veteran Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: SW Ontario, Canada (ex-pat Brit) Posts: 1,296	If you have a model shop nearby try Tamiya plastic cement. It's a liquid glue that comes in a jar with a brush and is used by plastic model builders to glue plastic parts together. It's a solvent type adhesive and will weld the parts together making the joint as strong as the parent parts. It may be that even the tiny brush supplied will be too large so I would suggest using a cocktail stick or toothpick to apply the adhesive. Coat one edge, align the parts with a little finger pressure and the adhesive will cure in a few seconds.

01-01-2018, 10:09 AM	#12
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	The trick is usually finding the proper solvent for the plastic. Superglues (cyanoacrylates) do work at a molecular level which is why normally very small amounts should be used. Something like JB Plastic weld adheres to most plastics.: Polymer Guide: If you seek solvation

01-01-2018, 11:41 AM	#13
Bad Boy Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Western Washington State Posts: 41	If someone here can confirm what type of plastic it is then the best glue can be selected. Gorilla Super Glue is good for most plastics. Some plastics dissolve in solvent others do not. If it is ABS plastic it dissolves acetone. ABS cement made with acetone and ABS, used for ABS pipe joints, would be the best. I have had great success with it on motorcycle body work. The glue is as strong as the original and can be built up in layers of liquid and can be shaped after is dries. Does anyone know the type of plastic used?

01-01-2018, 03:10 PM	#14
c.perkins Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: New Lisbon, WI. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 515	If you know the basics of stick welding in the old days or just welding two pieces together, I have repaired a lot of plastic using a soldering iron and a proper tip. Been doing it for years. It may not look great when done but will hold like it never broke in the first place if done right. Cosmetically afterwards you could apply some two part epoxy and smooth it down and paint/color it to match. Just a thought. Clarence

01-01-2018, 09:39 PM	#15
AggieDad Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Houston, TX Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,453 Original Poster	Many thanks for all the suggestions. My reason for he post is that my personal experience with glue for plastic dates back to the 1960s when I was messing around with model railroading. So I really had no idea about what modern adhesives would be best. It seems as though the favorite is Gorilla Super Glue. However I am a bit confused. I thought all super glues were 100% ethyl cyanoacrylate. Is the Gorilla Glue version different? Originally posted by c.perkins If you know the basics of stick welding in the old days or just welding two pieces together, I have repaired a lot of plastic using a soldering iron and a proper tip. My problem is time I used a soldering iron was building a crystal radio back when I was in Boy Scouts. I don’t think this is the best place to try to re-hone my skills. If my repair ever works, I’ll post a photo. If it doesn’t work there will be silence about it.