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01-02-2018, 06:24 PM - 1 Like   #1
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KP setup for quick adjustment from portrait to group photos

The thread title says it. I am still learning about my KP. This question is basic to photography technique and there are probably multiple ways to approach this but I am going to ask for advice. Do you experienced photographers use program mode and simply adjust the aperture for varying depth of focus? I want to be prepared for a group setting and I am certain that some individual portrait opportunities will present. Thanks

01-02-2018, 06:30 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by A H Thompson Quote
The thread title says it. I am still learning about my KP. This question is basic to photography technique and there are probably multiple ways to approach this but I am going to ask for advice. Do you experienced photographers use program mode and simply adjust the aperture for varying depth of focus? I want to be prepared for a group setting and I am certain that some individual portrait opportunities will present. Thanks
Ultimately, I think you want to very conversant with Manual mode, but for what you're describing you can just have it in Aperture mode - and spin that dial!

This works well in good daylight, but in other conditions the shutter speed may drop below 1/100s.

01-02-2018, 07:19 PM   #3
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I run aperture priority just about all the time. But as Clackers stated, I do keep a close eye on light conditions to adjust the iso as needed to keep my shutter speeds high enough. I’m not using the KP, but my dials are set for aperture and iso.
01-02-2018, 07:33 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by A H Thompson Quote
depth of focus?
Perhaps depth of field, not being pedantic, just getting it right from the outset, but there is a difference, depth of field is what photographers mainly chat about.
Depth of focus - Wikipedia

I think this is a good question, I say set up practice shots, there we can become familiar with just what aperture is need to fill the required job or required depth of field with a given lens to see everyone in focus. Or indeed give a shallower depth for single portraits


Last edited by beachgardener; 01-02-2018 at 07:38 PM.
01-02-2018, 07:45 PM   #5
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Aperture Priority is an easy place to start with portraits. You can work on composition and utilize depth of field in available light. Inside, leverage window light when possible. Add a reflector and a light stand to learn to start shaping light. Moving on to LED lighting off camera will help you learn different set ups while being able to see how things work.

As Clackers said you ultimately want to learn to shoot in Manual mode. This will give you much more creative control. It's also the mode to shoot with when using off camera strobes. Manual mode and off camera flash opens up a world of creative options. A great source for learning individual and group portraits is Popular Photography "The Complete Portrait Manual" - easy to read, it's an excellent crash course to shoot wow-worthy portraits. Another source of comprehensive knowledge to learn basics for flash photography is Strobist; http://strobist.blogspot.ca/

Getting a battery grip is also a solid help for portraiture.

Last edited by Saltwater Images; 01-02-2018 at 08:17 PM.
01-02-2018, 08:10 PM   #6
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DOF depends on a number of factors, including distance of the subjects from the camera, the focal length being used, and of course the aperture. So the lens you are using- its focal length and its aperture capability, is definitely a factor. If you are using a lens of faster aperture, say f/2.8 or faster, especially if not using a wide angle lens, you'd be best off to pay more careful attention to the settings, especially if lighting is less than bright outdoors. The more telephoto is your focal length, the more shallow is your DOF and more de-focused your background at any given aperture, compared to less telephoto. To get more in your picture sharp while using a telephoto FL will require a smaller aperture (higher number). Brighter lighting allows more latitude of settings without having to increase ISO.

As to Program mode, in good lighting there's no reason not to use it, unless the lighting presents a tricky situation, backlighting, etc. and even then you can employ exposure comp as needed. But always pay attention to what settings the program is giving you. Keep in mind, with the exclusive Pentax Hyper System, when using Program mode and you would rather have a different aperture or shutter speed, simply use your thumb or finger dial and select what you want! Fast, efficient, and simple. But as clackers says, watch what is happening to your shutter speed when setting an aperture. Likewise with shutter speed- watch the aperture. You will be instantly shifted to Av or Tv mode without having to change the mode dial first, then select your setting. This will remain in effect until you resume full Program operation with a touch of the green button or turn off the camera. if you will be turning the camera on and off, in that case use the mode dial to select Av or Tv so it will stay put.

That said, the Manual mode is the best way to learn about lighting and how a camera's meter reads lighting. Also learn how to use spot metering to overcome a tricky situation of lighting extremes. In Manual mode, the green button can be used to get instant meter-centered balanced exposure, which is very fast for spot-metering around a scene to bias exposure for best results. Or to just get your exposure set with regular matrix metering in Manual mode. Then go from there for your aperture or shutter speed preferences. This is the Pentax Hyper Manual operating system, and is much faster than the usual twirling of thumb and finger dials. After setting exposure using the green button, If you wish a different aperture, first hit the AE-L button (the button must be set for lock-exposure use- instead of an AF button), then select your aperture and the shutter speed will automatically change accordingly to preserve correct exposure. Same if selecting a different shutter speed- the aperture will follow along. No other brand camera operates with this efficiency.

Also with your KP, go to the custom image menu and set sharpening to "F" for Fine sharpening, at least in the "Bright" and "Natural" categories, for best detail in your images, according to lab tests and user experience. Another thing, when doing either group or individual people shots, it is most often a good idea to use flash, even in good outdoor lighting. It can provide catchlight in the eyes and can fill in harsh shadowing. If the lighting is very bright, you might need to increase flash comp by 1 EV or so.

As to individual portrait, your desired DOF will depend on what the background is like, how important it will be in your composition, whether it should be sharp or blurred to make your subject stand out from it more. If that is the case, you'll want to use a telephoto focal length usually between 40-100mm, maybe longer depending on your distance. The larger the aperture (smaller number), the more the background will be blurred because DOF is more shallow. If you are doing a closeup type head and shoulders portrait, you should definitely avoid any wide angle as a general rule, and getting too close with it, since this causes perspective distortion of the face, with exaggerated elongation of the nose, etc.

Last edited by mikesbike; 01-02-2018 at 09:06 PM.
01-02-2018, 09:36 PM   #7
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I run with Aperture priority on my kp probably 90% of the time - I have the rear dial set for aperture, the front set for iso, and the top command dial set for ev compensation, that gets me by in most situations.

For macro, studio, and for difficult lighting I use manual mode for more control.

I rarely use P mode (usually if I'm handing my camera to someone) and I'm not sure that I've ever used Auto.

01-02-2018, 09:37 PM   #8
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Thanks everybody. Will someone comment on the selection of spot vs multiple point focusing? Seems that this should change depending on the subject. Does this have as much bearing when the camera is set up for essentially zone focusing and not for focusing on a subject and blurring out the background as one might choose to do when shooting a portrait?
01-03-2018, 01:02 AM   #9
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I just use center spot and recompose on half press, I find it quicker and easier - but then I'm also used to af-s focus
01-03-2018, 04:42 AM   #10
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Center spot focus, and recompose. This way you are the deciding factor in what is focused on and not the camera. I personally do the same with exposure metering, which is where having a good understanding of how Manual mode works with your particular camera will get you the best results.
01-03-2018, 06:41 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by twilhelm Quote
Center spot focus, and recompose. This way you are the deciding factor in what is focused on and not the camera. I personally do the same with exposure metering, which is where having a good understanding of how Manual mode works with your particular camera will get you the best results.
Centre spot focus and recompose will not let you down. Doing the same for metering works exceptionally well also. You can take the metering a step further with an inexpensive Sekonic L-308S Light Meter. Using a hand held meter is even more accurate in ambient light and very helpful when adding off camera flash.
01-03-2018, 10:45 AM - 1 Like   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by A H Thompson Quote
Thanks everybody. Will someone comment on the selection of spot vs multiple point focusing? Seems that this should change depending on the subject. Does this have as much bearing when the camera is set up for essentially zone focusing and not for focusing on a subject and blurring out the background as one might choose to do when shooting a portrait?
Portrait shots are useless unless the subject's eyes are in focus. (Probably a handful of artistic exceptions, but in those cases, substitute "eyes" with "a point where I want the viewer's attention". Same techniques apply.) The camera is not going to reliably pick the eyes to focus on, instead of an earring, a giant mole, nostrils, etc. You have to control that focus yourself somehow.

I have the DA* 55/1.4, an older camera, no trust in AF and a split-prism focus screen. The lens is capable of beautiful shots and paper-thin depth of field, but with slow autofocus. I have my camera set to use the center point, also where the split prism is. Then I can focus and recompose, either with AF or manually. Recomposing means sometimes I have to correct for parallax errors. I sort of know when I need to do that and by how much, after a thousand practice shots of my dog. I don't claim perfection but that works for me.

The KP has 27 focus points and is certainly more advanced. You should be able to select a focus point over an eye, make sure the camera focuses, and take the same shot. You'd have to know whether each focus point is sensitive enough to work and how to select them efficiently. Just a different set of skills and knowledge.

I recommend practicing on a dog either way.
01-03-2018, 01:37 PM   #13
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The multiple focus points are for general use, or as an aid to action shooting when using AF-C. As others have said, with spot focus, you decide the exact focus point more readily, then re-compose your framing. I use the half-press very successfully.
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