[Churro]

Hello everybody! I went through the forum but haven't found an exactly the same problem.

I used the scenery mode and at some point in the same place the photos appeared extremely overexposed (totally white). I changed to manual, Sv, Tv, checked all parameters, reset the settings but it didn't really help. Indoors or without direct daylight everything seemed to be fine. At some point I managed to take normal photos again, but then this issue came back. Also it seems like there is a problem with software, because sometimes it freezes when i turn off the camera so i had to remove battery otherwise the was no respond. At the service support they told me to update the software version (currently it's 1.0) (when I went there the camera acted totally normally and they couldn't really help). Anybody had the same problem? Thanks in advance!

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[Kombivan]

looks to me like your using a spot meter rather than the segment meter for this shot. The second photo I have no idea. Landscape mode would be wrong for the beach scene with the amount of white in it normal or snow sking mode might be better. have you checked your +/- ev setting bit like some shots I got today using a 2x converter. Has your computer or whatever picked up on which lens your using as the wrong lens setting could cause problems. using infill flash in aperture pirority mode could cause that effect as well I don't have a K-50 myself so that's all I could suggest looking at. The top photo looks like the sun is forward of you yes i see on the man the shadow is on his front so sun is forward of you, and is there a shadow or contrast correct turned on or high use off or medium or low correction. many will scold me for this use a 1b filter as well. Also check the timer isn't switched on as well as thats a long exposure for the bottom image. Turn the white balance on to auto AUTO correct and try it again. If you used fill flash with the shutter pirority better to be in program mode and set the aperture ring to A if it has one. I don't bother with the flash in semi auto mode (manual mode)

---------- Post added 02-18-18 at 09:59 PM ----------

I read somthing last night about aperture setting and true aperture being a bit different and I have no idea where I read it as it made no sense to me might have been to do with the converter I purchased.

I got it whilst I was munching on my apple turn over I thought what if? The lens is faultyand the aperture rings wern't closing when the shutter button was depressed then the inages would be overexposted F8 top image its about 3 stops over and the bottom picture at f22 well thats a hell of a lot over exposed so is your electrical connections good test another lens look at your lens when you depress the buttonand see if it stops down. well there are some things to look at chow.

---------- Post added 02-18-18 at 10:02 PM ----------

Your lens might not have been fully screwed on causing a miss connection in electricial contacts?

[UncleVanya]

That looks like the atypical aperture block failure starting. Most of the time it manifests as under exposure. I have personally experienced this version as well.

Try setting the camera in manual mode to a long shutter speed and f/22 or so. Look into the front of the lens and trigger the camera vlok to see if the aperture closes all the way. Then do this again with aperture set wide open and verify it opens all the the way.

[Kombivan]

what is the aperture block?

[Kombivan]

How's that look unclevanya I used B = f22 = leaves seem to work in my camera ok

[UncleVanya]

How's that look unclevanya I used B = f22 = leaves seem to work in my camera ok

I can't see much. Just blotchy black.

[jack002]

what is the aperture block?

This is when the aperture inside the lens gets stuck and does not shut down at all or all the way during the process of taking a picture.

Based on that post up there with the test pic of f22, post#5, it seems unlikely this is happening, at least consistently.

[Churro]

looks to me like your using a spot meter rather than the segment meter for this shot. The second photo I have no idea. Landscape mode would be wrong for the beach scene with the amount of white in it normal or snow sking mode might be better. have you checked your +/- ev setting bit like some shots I got today using a 2x converter. Has your computer or whatever picked up on which lens your using as the wrong lens setting could cause problems. using infill flash in aperture pirority mode could cause that effect as well I don't have a K-50 myself so that's all I could suggest looking at. The top photo looks like the sun is forward of you yes i see on the man the shadow is on his front so sun is forward of you, and is there a shadow or contrast correct turned on or high use off or medium or low correction. many will scold me for this use a 1b filter as well. Also check the timer isn't switched on as well as thats a long exposure for the bottom image. Turn the white balance on to auto AUTO correct and try it again. If you used fill flash with the shutter pirority better to be in program mode and set the aperture ring to A if it has one. I don't bother with the flash in semi auto mode (manual mode)

---------- Post added 02-18-18 at 09:59 PM ----------

I read somthing last night about aperture setting and true aperture being a bit different and I have no idea where I read it as it made no sense to me might have been to do with the converter I purchased.

I got it whilst I was munching on my apple turn over I thought what if? The lens is faultyand the aperture rings wern't closing when the shutter button was depressed then the inages would be overexposted F8 top image its about 3 stops over and the bottom picture at f22 well thats a hell of a lot over exposed so is your electrical connections good test another lens look at your lens when you depress the buttonand see if it stops down. well there are some things to look at chow.

---------- Post added 02-18-18 at 10:02 PM ----------

Your lens might not have been fully screwed on causing a miss connection in electricial contacts?

Thanks to everybody for the replies, apologies for taking so long.
So in the end it was indeed an aperture problem. I don't know exactly the name of this particular part (since the repair shop is in china....), but it had to be changed. After that exposure, shutting speed and so on normalized

[Kombivan]

what is wrong is your lens is one that dosen't default too 180 shutter speed and as a result your exposure is longer than it should be. you will have to read the book about sync X or read through my posts about flash control think it might be in the firmware thread. I wrote it about 2-3 weeks ago.

[sys3175]

Please, do not post such misleading utterings. The cause for the problem is clear as stated by the original poster. There's no need to continue analyzing a solved problem, and you should really refrain from offering 'solutions' that have no relation to the problem at all, as this might only mislead others. Thank you.

[Kombivan]

Please, do not post such misleading utterings. The cause for the problem is clear as stated by the original poster. There's no need to continue analyzing a solved problem, and you should really refrain from offering 'solutions' that have no relation to the problem at all, as this might only mislead others. Thank you.

I had two problems with my cameras that gave a similar exposure to yours Churro. I was told I had Aperture block which may be what you have with your camera where the magnetic device that operates your aperture malfunctions and requires replacing which is possibly what has been done to your camera. I later read that the K-5 and K-3 don't suffer from aperture block as this was fixed with later cameras.

one of my problems was in flash mode when certain lens defult to a shutter speed of 180 for the exposure settings and I was setting my shutter at 60 so I would take the photo and the image would be overexposed because I set to 60 instead of 180 shutter speed.

2nd problem eratic overexposure was caused because i was using x converters with AF and they were confusing the camera to thinking a 300mm lens was a 600mm and vise versa and the same with the x1.4 converter it was the worst. and to fix this I had to reset the camera to factory settings and start over I have not used an AF converter since and have not had the problem since and that took a month or two to work out. Before you say bullcrap the latest firmware upgrade for the k-5ii address the problem with pentax x 1.4 converters unfortunately I don't have the pentax converters. I am putting this here so if Churro has a problem again he has this to read and so does any other person. I also don't think this is a place for rudeness. I had a stroke I don't always explain myself properly.