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02-25-2018, 12:57 AM - 1 Like   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kozlok Quote
I also recommend learning how to meter manually. Read “Understanding Exposure” by Bryan Petersen. It improved my joy of photography immensely.

After shooting a photo I really want to turn out right, I always check my histograms to make sure nothing is wildly over/under exposed and then edit to what I really want in post.

Kozlok is spot on with his recommendation of Brian Petersen's book "Understanding Exposure." Additionally his point about using the histogram too. This topic seems to be like black magic to most people, and is too often ignored. Check out Dave Morrow's video "My HISTOGRAM CAMERA Technique..."
I found this video to be one of the best comprehensible explanations for using and understanding the histogram.



02-25-2018, 02:55 AM   #32
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I have a K1 and the Irix 15mm, it works perfect with matrix metering. In menu 1 you can find it (i have Dutch version, it is nr 4 in menu 1).
02-25-2018, 04:13 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
Adam,
I found one. I wasn't sure how to do it, but I hope it worked.
Terry
This is spot metering, Terry!

I know you have a superb camera and three superb lenses, but can I ask, how much photography have you done before?
02-25-2018, 05:29 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
Hmm, you may have accidentally selected spot metering. You should go for matrix metering.

Can you attach the problematic photos?
Adam,
Should I change to more focus points? I currently have my camera on spot focus. Thank you.
Terry

02-25-2018, 05:37 AM   #35
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It's nothing to do with focus, unless you have selected to link AE with focal point, like digitalis mentioned earlier.
02-25-2018, 05:39 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
This is spot metering, Terry!

I know you have a superb camera and three superb lenses, but can I ask, how much photography have you done before?
Since I was in Middle school. I was the school photographer. Shot a lot of medium format cameras. I resisted changing to digital, but as the film processing companies started to close, I bought a Fuji DSLR. Then a Nikon D300, then a Canon 5D and all the L glass, then changed to the Nikon for faster focus with all of their pro glass. Always shot jpeg.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 05:45 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
This is spot metering, Terry!

I know you have a superb camera and three superb lenses, but can I ask, how much photography have you done before?
I have my metering on matrix, and my focus points on spot. What I need to know is should I change to more focus points? I use spot for portraits, or product pictures. I'm looking for better results, today. Thank you.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 05:50 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
It's nothing to do with focus, unless you have selected to link AE with focal point, like digitalis mentioned earlier.
I understand, Sandy. Just wondered if more focus points might help. My camera is now on matrix metering, and center point focus. Going out to try again, today.
Terry
02-25-2018, 06:03 AM   #37
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As shown in the video linked in post #31, it is also worth checking the live view histogram if you are unsure of the correct exposure.
02-25-2018, 08:54 AM   #38
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Well, I went to the closest place in town, and shot a few shots with my 31mm and Irix 15. These are jpegs, with no sharpening or any process at all. The only change to my camera was to use Matrix metering, and left my focus points to center. They aren't great, but much better than yesterday. Thank you all for your help.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 09:07 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
Well, I went to the closest place in town, and shot a few shots with my 31mm and Irix 15. These are jpegs, with no sharpening or any process at all. The only change to my camera was to use Matrix metering, and left my focus points to center. They aren't great, but much better than yesterday. Thank you all for your help.
Terry
How do I get rid of those corners? I'm quite sure the Irix 15 is better than that. It was shot at iso 100, shutter speed 250, aperture 7.

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 09:09 AM ----------

I may not have had the lens hood on properly.

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02-25-2018, 09:37 AM   #39
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That was it. The lens hood was not on properly, but not by much.

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 09:39 AM ----------

Can someone analyze this Irix 15 while I have a chance to return it? Thank you.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 09:42 AM ----------

The bottom corners don't look that good, to me.
Terry
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02-25-2018, 10:17 AM   #40
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I generally use spot focus. I will train the focus on a small point where I want focus emphasized most, or I deem a good part of the scene for it. Then while holding that focus by using the back focus button, or the half-press of the shutter button, I move the camera to re-adjust my framing and complete my shot. This is how spot focus is used. It is ok to have more focus points activated so the camera will focus on the area it "thinks" is the best area, but then you have to pay attention to what it is doing to make sure this is what you want.

As for metering, matrix metering should do a fine job with the scenes you've shown.

The camera automatically applies sharpening in JPEG images. The K-1's in-camera sharpening for JPEGs has been shown as quite conservative, so they tend to turn out a bit soft. It would be a good idea to increase sharpening by at least one notch in the Custom Image menus both for the default "Bright" category and the "Natural" category. Also put an "F" by the "S" for "Fine Sharpening" while you are at it, for best fine detail in your images. When you are done, move back to the "Bright" category, which is good for general shooting.
02-25-2018, 10:49 AM   #41
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My Irix 11mm corners look better than the Irix 15mm. I'll keep working with it.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 10:52 AM ----------

I sure will, Sandy.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 10:56 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by DutchGonzo Quote
I have a K1 and the Irix 15mm, it works perfect with matrix metering. In menu 1 you can find it (i have Dutch version, it is nr 4 in menu 1).
Hello,
Does my Irix 15 image look as it should? I'm a little disappointed in it. My Irix 11mm looks better.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-25-18 at 11:01 AM ----------

If someone can analyze my uwa shots, I sure would appreciate it. I'm just starting to learn about uwa lens and don't know what to look for. Thank you.
Terry
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02-25-2018, 11:55 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
I generally use spot focus. I will train the focus on a small point where I want focus emphasized most, or I deem a good part of the scene for it. Then while holding that focus by using the back focus button, or the half-press of the shutter button, I move the camera to re-adjust my framing and complete my shot. This is how spot focus is used. It is ok to have more focus points activated so the camera will focus on the area it "thinks" is the best area, but then you have to pay attention to what it is doing to make sure this is what you want.

As for metering, matrix metering should do a fine job with the scenes you've shown.

The camera automatically applies sharpening in JPEG images. The K-1's in-camera sharpening for JPEGs has been shown as quite conservative, so they tend to turn out a bit soft. It would be a good idea to increase sharpening by at least one notch in the Custom Image menus both for the default "Bright" category and the "Natural" category. Also put an "F" by the "S" for "Fine Sharpening" while you are at it, for best fine detail in your images. When you are done, move back to the "Bright" category, which is good for general shooting.
Thanks Mike,
I will do that.
Terry
02-25-2018, 12:16 PM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
Adam,
Should I change to more focus points? I currently have my camera on spot focus. Thank you.
Terry
You can leave the focus point on spot, as others have said. Just make sure the metering mode is correct, which it looks like it is.

Adam
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02-25-2018, 02:24 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by Adam Quote
You can leave the focus point on spot, as others have said. Just make sure the metering mode is correct, which it looks like it is.
Adam,
I tested my Irix 15, today. I consider the train picture sharp. Once I got home, I took a second picture to check if the hood was showing in the picture, which it was. I don't consider that picture sharp at all. I also shot the emblems on my truck, and they looked horrible. Shot them with my 77, and just smiled. Very sharp. Maybe they just require a contrasty scene. Any thoughts?
Terry

Last edited by TerryL; 02-25-2018 at 02:41 PM.
02-25-2018, 02:35 PM   #45
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Many of your shots have deep shadows and bright highlights. To get the most out of the files your camera captures you would be *much* better served by shooting in RAW rather than JPEG, and exposing carefully to avoid clipping the highlights. This is where checking the live view histogram can be particularly useful.

The above approach is particularly important with ultra-wide lenses like your Irix 15mm. So much is captured it is almost impossible to have everything evenly lit.

Your UWA images look sharp enough to me, but without the ability to view at a larger size it's impossible to be definite. The last one looks about how I like to expose the RAW file - I then bring the shadows up to reveal the details if required. From a compositional point of view, ultra-wide shots work best when there is something of interest in the foreground, so you can exploit the extreme depth of field these lenses provide.







Bottom line: there's nothing wrong with your gear. Work on your craft.
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