[TerryL]

Many of your shots have deep shadows and bright highlights. To get the most out of the files your camera captures you would be *much* better served by shooting in RAW rather than JPEG, and exposing carefully to avoid clipping the highlights. This is where checking the live view histogram can be particularly useful.

The above approach is particularly important with ultra-wide lenses like your Irix 15mm. So much is captured it is almost impossible to have everything evenly lit.

Your UWA images look sharp enough to me, but without the ability to view at a larger size it's impossible to be definite. The last one looks about how I like to expose the RAW file - I then bring the shadows up to reveal the details if required. From a compositional point of view, ultra-wide shots work best when there is something of interest in the foreground, so you can exploit the extreme depth of field these lenses provide.







Bottom line: there's nothing wrong with your gear. Work on your craft.

Beautiful, Sandy. Your advice is appreciated. Beautiful pictures. Lots of color. Everything is so drab around hear. That's about to change, though. Is it fair to get close with an ultra wide and test the sharpness? For example the emblems on my truck. I did and they were horrible. But when I look at the train picture with my 15mm, I really like it. Is it just the nature of the type of lens? Thank you.
Terry

[david94903]

Regarding using an UWA lens... on unrelated thread, Zobeleye and Photoptimist reminded me of a great, and mostly unknown feature of Pentax bodies, the ability to shift the sensor to compensate for lens distortion. This is especially handy when shooting with UWA lens. It's only usable through Live View, and best used when the camera is on a tripod. On the K-1, the feature can be accessed through the first menu tab 4 - Composition Adjust.

Here's a nice thread about using Composition Adjust. Composition Adjustment/Sensor Shift...are you using it? - PentaxForums.com

[mikesbike]

There's also a shadow correction control where you can open up shadow detail more, which can be accessed via the info button. The default is usually at "auto" setting, but sometimes there's still too much darkness in a shadowy foreground with a lighter but cloudy sky failing to provide adequate illumination. So you can manually set this control increased to medium to see if that does the trick for such a shot. Overall contrast will be reduced, but in this case that is a good thing.

[SSGGeezer]

Shoot RAW+ and you can process those dark areas. You have an amazing camera with great dynamic range but you can't experience it unless you shoot RAW.

[builttospill]

Is it fair to get close with an ultra wide and test the sharpness? For example the emblems on my truck. I did and they were horrible. But when I look at the train picture with my 15mm, I really like it. Is it just the nature of the type of lens? Thank you.
Terry

No, it's not really a fair comparison. To adequately compare, you'd need to take photos from the same distance with each lens. Getting so close with an ultra-wide lens will change your depth of field.

Three things change your depth of field: 1) aperture, 2) subject-to-camera distance, and 3) zooming in. Number three doesn't apply became we're not using zoom lenses. Getting closer to your subject has a significant effect on your depth of field, increasing your out of focus blur.

Shooting RAW won't change your corner sharpness or depth of field, so I'm really surprised so many people are suggesting it. Don't pay attention to the suggestion to shoot RAW. That can come later, if desired. First, as suggested, work on your craft. Master exposure settings, controlling depth of field, and using light. Shooting sample photos outside between 2:30 and 3 in the afternoon is not effective. Shoot in the morning and late afternoon when the light is much better.

Lastly, if you want to get close use your FA Limiteds, not an 11 or 15mm (step back with those). Getting close to minimum focus distance with your FA Limiteds will make you smile often.

[SSGGeezer]

The comments on shooting RAW have nothing to do with his clarity questions, it was about his issues with metering and correct exposure in shots with differing light levels. This was also aggravated by UWA encompassing such a wide FOV.

[volley]

Bottom line: there's nothing wrong with your gear. Work on your craft.

That' a pretty good advice for most of us

[beachgardener]

Check out Dave Morrow's video "My HISTOGRAM CAMERA Technique

That is a really good video on histogram, might use it a bit more, mainly I rely on hand held metering, worth it to me to try the histogram out more.
In that video is his mention on the poster ban on unmanned aircraft, brilliant, we need more of that here.

[TerryL]

No, it's not really a fair comparison. To adequately compare, you'd need to take photos from the same distance with each lens. Getting so close with an ultra-wide lens will change your depth of field.

Three things change your depth of field: 1) aperture, 2) subject-to-camera distance, and 3) zooming in. Number three doesn't apply became we're not using zoom lenses. Getting closer to your subject has a significant effect on your depth of field, increasing your out of focus blur.

Shooting RAW won't change your corner sharpness or depth of field, so I'm really surprised so many people are suggesting it. Don't pay attention to the suggestion to shoot RAW. That can come later, if desired. First, as suggested, work on your craft. Master exposure settings, controlling depth of field, and using light. Shooting sample photos outside between 2:30 and 3 in the afternoon is not effective. Shoot in the morning and late afternoon when the light is much better.

Lastly, if you want to get close use your FA Limiteds, not an 11 or 15mm (step back with those). Getting close to minimum focus distance with your FA Limiteds will make you smile often.

Thank you for your advice. I actually have dementia, which causes loss of memory and makes it hard to figure out things. I'm fighting that battle as I get back into photography. I'm going to win the battle.
Regards,
Terry

[builttospill]

Thank you for your advice. I actually have dementia, which causes loss of memory and makes it hard to figure out things. I'm fighting that battle as I get back into photography. I'm going to win the battle.
Regards,
Terry

Good for you, keep it up. Here's a couple other resources that may help as you work on mastering exposure settings. My favorite is the first one, due to the clear definitions of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO: Aperture, shutter and ISO value and this one is a little more advanced: Free DSLR Camera Simulator | CameraSim

You can't use a mobile device to access these sites, as they both use Flash to allow you to adjust settings for a simulated camera. The first has three different images, the second has one image with motion.

[TerryL]

Hmm, you may have accidentally selected spot metering. You should go for matrix metering.

Can you attach the problematic photos?

Adam,
Where can I find in camera sharpening in the Custom menu? I want to increase the sharpening of my jpegs. Thank you.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-26-18 at 12:15 PM ----------

Good for you, keep it up. Here's a couple other resources that may help as you work on mastering exposure settings. My favorite is the first one, due to the clear definitions of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO: Aperture, shutter and ISO value and this one is a little more advanced: Free DSLR Camera Simulator | CameraSim

You can't use a mobile device to access these sites, as they both use Flash to allow you to adjust settings for a simulated camera. The first has three different images, the second has one image with motion.

Where can I find in camera sharpening in the custom menu. I want to increase it by 1 for my jpegs.
Thank you

[Adam]

Adam,
Where can I find in camera sharpening in the Custom menu? I want to increase the sharpening of my jpegs. Thank you.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-26-18 at 12:15 PM ----------


Where can I find in camera sharpening in the custom menu. I want to increase it by 1 for my jpegs.
Thank you

Press the info button when highlighting your current custom image mode:



Note that you can get a lot more sharpness out of raw files.

[TerryL]

Press the info button when highlighting your current custom image mode:



Note that you can get a lot more sharpness out of raw files.

Thank you, Adam. I plan to learn how to process raw files soon. I need to get comfortable with the camera, first. I'm very pleased with the jpeg quality of the k-1.
Regards,
Terry

---------- Post added 02-26-18 at 01:28 PM ----------

Press the info button when highlighting your current custom image mode:



Note that you can get a lot more sharpness out of raw files.

Sorry, but I'm unsure what you mean by highlighting my current custom image mode. I looked at every option under C.
Terry

[mikesbike]

Press the info button when highlighting your current custom image mode:



Note that you can get a lot more sharpness out of raw files.

I've been trying to explain this important feature- now thanks to Adam, it should be more clear for you. In the "Bright" category, the sharpness (S) is already up by +1 by default. Even so, tests have indicated sharpness in the K-1 to still be somewhat held back, so I would recommend increasing to +2. Then, also by using your rear thumb dial, you can implement Fine Sharpening by putting an "F" by the "S".

Here is how to proceed from the time you turn on your camera:

(1) hit "info" and your quick-link adjustments screen appears. Now the 4 buttons surrounding the "ok" button will be for navigation and for adjusting the settings.

The first section should be be Custom Image. Then (2) hit "ok" to open all of its categories. The first category box is "auto" but you don't want that. You should be on the 2nd category box- "Bright" which is the one Adam is showing. Navigate over to it if not already on it. Then (3) hit "info" again to open its settings. Now you can navigate to "S" and adjust up one more to +2 by using those 4 buttons surrounding the "ok" button. Then use your rear thumb dial to put an "F" by the "S" and you are done.

Now you can hit menu or just turn off the camera, which will exit those screens.

I would say for now, as builttospill says, just shoot JPEGs. If you adjust your parameters right for the camera's JPEG engine to run on all 8 cylinders, and use the camera's tools for dynamic range, etc. you can get excellent results. Play with RAW later.

[monochrome]

Terry: would you like one of us who owns a K-1 to call you and step-by-step assist?