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02-26-2018, 02:17 PM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
I've been trying to explain this important feature- now thanks to Adam, it should be more clear for you. In the "Bright" category, the sharpness (S) is already up by +1 by default. Even so, tests have indicated sharpness in the K-1 to still be somewhat held back, so I would recommend increasing to +2. Then, also by using your rear thumb dial, you can implement Fine Sharpening by putting an "F" by the "S".

When in this screen, the 4 buttons surrounding the "ok" button are now for navigation to move and to adjust.

I would say for now, as builttospill says, just shoot JPEGs. If you adjust your parameters right for the camera's JPEG engine to run on all 8 cylinders, and use the camera's tools for dynamic range, etc. you can get excellent results. Play with RAW later.
I can't get to the screen Adam is showing. Tried everything. Have looked through the manual. If I could just find that screen, I think I can do it.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-26-18 at 02:20 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
Terry: would you like one of us who owns a K-1 to call you and step-by-step assist?
That is so kind of you. I'm just going to try again tomorrow. If I could just find that screen Adam shows, I think I can finish it.
Regards,
Terry

02-26-2018, 05:28 PM - 1 Like   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
I can't get to the screen Adam is showing. Tried everything. Have looked through the manual. If I could just find that screen, I think I can do it.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-26-18 at 02:20 PM ----------


That is so kind of you. I'm just going to try again tomorrow. If I could just find that screen Adam shows, I think I can finish it.
Regards,
Terry
Next to the OK button, press the right button on the 4-Way Controller

.:. That calls up the jpeg processing settings. Arrow to Natural, and Bright, press Info (next to Menu), rear E-Dial scroll to Fine Sharpness. Use the 4-Way Controller to set the Fine Sharpeness to +1.
02-26-2018, 07:17 PM - 1 Like   #63
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
Thank you for your advice. I actually have dementia, which causes loss of memory and makes it hard to figure out things. I'm fighting that battle as I get back into photography. I'm going to win the battle.
Regards,
Terry
Thanks for sharing. With some guidance maybe we can help you find a configuration that works for your style. That and a few crib notes should help you get results that satisfy and that you can reference as needed. There are several of us on the Pentax Forums who have difficult ongoing challenges and a small reminder such as "hey my memory is no good" may be enough to remind us to be patient.


Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 02-26-2018 at 07:22 PM.
02-26-2018, 08:03 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
Since I was in Middle school. I was the school photographer. Shot a lot of medium format cameras. I resisted changing to digital, but as the film processing companies started to close, I bought a Fuji DSLR. Then a Nikon D300, then a Canon 5D and all the L glass, then changed to the Nikon for faster focus with all of their pro glass. Always shot jpeg.
...
I have my metering on matrix, and my focus points on spot. What I need to know is should I change to more focus points? I use spot for portraits, or product pictures. I'm looking for better results, today. Thank you.
Terry
Okay, if you've got a lot of film background, you'll know that one editorial look is to spot expose for the subject's face and let the background blow. This is essentially what's happened in the first pic you posted.

The bush has been brought up to 18% grey and everything else is overexposed.

To get a balanced exposure, with your light meter you would have tested for the tree and the lawn and buildings and done some sort of weighted average of the readings.

Your new camera can do all this for you with Matrix metering, for example, that's a good mode to begin with.

Now, you've mentioned you're battling a condition, Terry that's fantastic, I hope to do the same when it happens to me rather than just accept its onset.

Best of luck with it and your shooting!

02-26-2018, 08:28 PM - 1 Like   #65
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I hesitated to submit this reply. I'm not trying to start a debate on camera settings. I just wanted to offer another point of view for discussion.


Just to be the contrarian here...

The FA Limiteds are some of the finest lenses I have used. They are sharp, especially when proper exposure settings are used with them. I have no experience with Irix lenses. Terry, what's your experience with editing photos?

I ask because I don't want my camera applying sharpening or contrast, etc. If I need to add contrast I'll do it myself while editing the photos. The first thing I do when getting a new digital camera is set it to "bright" and take all the other adjustment settings to "zero" so no additional saturation, contrast, or especially sharpening is added to my photos. With the FA Limited Lenses (or other nice lenses), I don't need extra saturation. A blurry photo is a blurry photo. Sharpening a photo doesn't fix a blurry image. Retaking the image fixes it. Sharpening a photo will quickly degrade image quality by replacing pixels with black and white pixels to add micro contrast.

This is reinforcement for the importance of getting exposure settings correct.

K10D and FA* 80-200
ISO 100
f/2.8
1/500
123mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop


K-1 and FA 43
ISO 100
f/3.2
1/60
43mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop
02-26-2018, 10:50 PM   #66
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The K-1 appears to be unlike the KP in some controls. In this case, more like the K-5 series, which does have access to Custom Image menus via the button to the right of the"ok" button, as monochrome says for the K-1.

Once you get the screen, what is needed is, in the "Bright" category- advance sharpening to +2, then add Fine Sharpening- unless getting that done is also different with the K-1.

In other words, sharpening itself should go to +2 instead of +1 (default). in addition, Fine Sharpening should also be added. You can use the same sharpening settings in the "Natural" category also, but it is best to but the camera back to "Bright" when you are done, which is the standard shooting category.

Last edited by mikesbike; 02-27-2018 at 01:36 AM.
02-27-2018, 05:23 AM - 1 Like   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by builttospill Quote
I hesitated to submit this reply. I'm not trying to start a debate on camera settings. I just wanted to offer another point of view for discussion.


Just to be the contrarian here...

The FA Limiteds are some of the finest lenses I have used. They are sharp, especially when proper exposure settings are used with them. I have no experience with Irix lenses. Terry, what's your experience with editing photos?

I ask because I don't want my camera applying sharpening or contrast, etc. If I need to add contrast I'll do it myself while editing the photos. The first thing I do when getting a new digital camera is set it to "bright" and take all the other adjustment settings to "zero" so no additional saturation, contrast, or especially sharpening is added to my photos. With the FA Limited Lenses (or other nice lenses), I don't need extra saturation. A blurry photo is a blurry photo. Sharpening a photo doesn't fix a blurry image. Retaking the image fixes it. Sharpening a photo will quickly degrade image quality by replacing pixels with black and white pixels to add micro contrast.

This is reinforcement for the importance of getting exposure settings correct.

K10D and FA* 80-200
ISO 100
f/2.8
1/500
123mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop


K-1 and FA 43
ISO 100
f/3.2
1/60
43mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop
My experience in processing is shooting in jpeg, processing in Lightroom. Adjusting exposure, sharpening, and a few other basic adjustments. Will sharpening in Lightroom be the same as in camera sharpening?
Terry

---------- Post added 02-27-18 at 05:31 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by builttospill Quote
I hesitated to submit this reply. I'm not trying to start a debate on camera settings. I just wanted to offer another point of view for discussion.


Just to be the contrarian here...

The FA Limiteds are some of the finest lenses I have used. They are sharp, especially when proper exposure settings are used with them. I have no experience with Irix lenses. Terry, what's your experience with editing photos?

I ask because I don't want my camera applying sharpening or contrast, etc. If I need to add contrast I'll do it myself while editing the photos. The first thing I do when getting a new digital camera is set it to "bright" and take all the other adjustment settings to "zero" so no additional saturation, contrast, or especially sharpening is added to my photos. With the FA Limited Lenses (or other nice lenses), I don't need extra saturation. A blurry photo is a blurry photo. Sharpening a photo doesn't fix a blurry image. Retaking the image fixes it. Sharpening a photo will quickly degrade image quality by replacing pixels with black and white pixels to add micro contrast.

This is reinforcement for the importance of getting exposure settings correct.

K10D and FA* 80-200
ISO 100
f/2.8
1/500
123mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop


K-1 and FA 43
ISO 100
f/3.2
1/60
43mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop
BTW, I love my new FA Iimited lenses. I was just using the wrong metering setting.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-27-18 at 05:39 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Okay, if you've got a lot of film background, you'll know that one editorial look is to spot expose for the subject's face and let the background blow. This is essentially what's happened in the first pic you posted.

The bush has been brought up to 18% grey and everything else is overexposed.

To get a balanced exposure, with your light meter you would have tested for the tree and the lawn and buildings and done some sort of weighted average of the readings.

Your new camera can do all this for you with Matrix metering, for example, that's a good mode to begin with.

Now, you've mentioned you're battling a condition, Terry that's fantastic, I hope to do the same when it happens to me rather than just accept its onset.

Best of luck with it and your shooting!
I completely understand. I have it set on matrix now, but would definitely set it on spot for a portrait, or the like. I understand the meter settings, now.
Terry

02-27-2018, 06:23 AM   #68
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
My experience in processing is shooting in jpeg, processing in Lightroom. Adjusting exposure, sharpening, and a few other basic adjustments. Will sharpening in Lightroom be the same as in camera sharpening?
Terry
No, they are completely different. In LR you can control the amount of sharpening with your brush settings, as well as control where the sharpening is applied. The camera will apply sharpening evenly across the entire frame.
02-27-2018, 09:23 AM   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
Next to the OK button, press the right button on the 4-Way Controller

.:. That calls up the jpeg processing settings. Arrow to Natural, and Bright, press Info (next to Menu), rear E-Dial scroll to Fine Sharpness. Use the 4-Way Controller to set the Fine Sharpeness to +1.
Got it! Thank you very much.
Terry

---------- Post added 02-27-18 at 09:52 AM ----------

Ok Guys,
You all have been a blessing, and I really appreciate your help. Bottom line, I love my K-1 and especially my FA Limited lenses. Time for me to get out and shoot, and learn to process raw files to get the most out of my K-1.
Regards,
Terry
02-27-2018, 12:30 PM   #70
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QuoteOriginally posted by builttospill Quote
I hesitated to submit this reply. I'm not trying to start a debate on camera settings. I just wanted to offer another point of view for discussion.


Just to be the contrarian here...

The FA Limiteds are some of the finest lenses I have used. They are sharp, especially when proper exposure settings are used with them. I have no experience with Irix lenses. Terry, what's your experience with editing photos?

I ask because I don't want my camera applying sharpening or contrast, etc. If I need to add contrast I'll do it myself while editing the photos. The first thing I do when getting a new digital camera is set it to "bright" and take all the other adjustment settings to "zero" so no additional saturation, contrast, or especially sharpening is added to my photos. With the FA Limited Lenses (or other nice lenses), I don't need extra saturation. A blurry photo is a blurry photo. Sharpening a photo doesn't fix a blurry image. Retaking the image fixes it. Sharpening a photo will quickly degrade image quality by replacing pixels with black and white pixels to add micro contrast.

This is reinforcement for the importance of getting exposure settings correct.

K10D and FA* 80-200
ISO 100
f/2.8
1/500
123mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop


K-1 and FA 43
ISO 100
f/3.2
1/60
43mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop
Beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing.
Terry
02-28-2018, 01:21 AM   #71
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All of that you've been quoting here regarding the camera not adding sharpening, etc. is for doit-yourself processing of RAW files, using lightroom, adjusting sharpness, contrast, etc.etc in post-process. That is not what we're trying to do initially, by setting up your in-camera JPEG operation so you can go ahead and get the best JPEG results from your camera. These settings in no way would interfere with processing RAW files at any time, but for now it would be best to just shoot JPEGs anyway.

Trying to keep things streamlined for getting good results for shooting and getting to know your camera is best for now. Discussions about more complicated post-process and RAW images will not help in this endeavor. All of that can come later, as desired.

It would also be a good idea to check the manual for a picture showing all the buttons and controls, with page numbers so you can learn what these controls do.

But first steps, in my opinion, would be to just get your JPEG processing adjusted and set up first so you can shoot some good photos right away, then later go from there. It should not be hard to find that screen by using the right button as explained.

Last edited by mikesbike; 02-28-2018 at 01:29 AM.
02-28-2018, 02:07 PM   #72
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
All of that you've been quoting here regarding the camera not adding sharpening, etc. is for doit-yourself processing of RAW files, using lightroom, adjusting sharpness, contrast, etc.etc in post-process. That is not what we're trying to do initially, by setting up your in-camera JPEG operation so you can go ahead and get the best JPEG results from your camera. These settings in no way would interfere with processing RAW files at any time, but for now it would be best to just shoot JPEGs anyway.

Trying to keep things streamlined for getting good results for shooting and getting to know your camera is best for now. Discussions about more complicated post-process and RAW images will not help in this endeavor. All of that can come later, as desired.

It would also be a good idea to check the manual for a picture showing all the buttons and controls, with page numbers so you can learn what these controls do.

But first steps, in my opinion, would be to just get your JPEG processing adjusted and set up first so you can shoot some good photos right away, then later go from there. It should not be hard to find that screen by using the right button as explained.
I like that advice. Thank you, Mike.
Terry
02-28-2018, 03:34 PM   #73
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
All of that you've been quoting here regarding the camera not adding sharpening, etc. is for doit-yourself processing of RAW files, using lightroom, adjusting sharpness, contrast, etc.etc in post-process. That is not what we're trying to do initially, by setting up your in-camera JPEG operation so you can go ahead and get the best JPEG results from your camera. These settings in no way would interfere with processing RAW files at any time, but for now it would be best to just shoot JPEGs anyway.

Trying to keep things streamlined for getting good results for shooting and getting to know your camera is best for now. Discussions about more complicated post-process and RAW images will not help in this endeavor. All of that can come later, as desired.

It would also be a good idea to check the manual for a picture showing all the buttons and controls, with page numbers so you can learn what these controls do.

But first steps, in my opinion, would be to just get your JPEG processing adjusted and set up first so you can shoot some good photos right away, then later go from there. It should not be hard to find that screen by using the right button as explained.
Mike,
By shooting jpeg, am I only getting about 20 mp images, instead of 39?
Terry
02-28-2018, 07:33 PM   #74
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
Mike,
By shooting jpeg, am I only getting about 20 mp images, instead of 39?
Terry
Most of the JPEGs from my K-1 are around 12-22MB. A RAW file will be much larger, as it's not compressed.
02-28-2018, 11:32 PM   #75
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QuoteOriginally posted by TerryL Quote
Mike,
By shooting jpeg, am I only getting about 20 mp images, instead of 39?
Terry
That's about right. I just checked some of my stored images. JPEGs from the 16mp sensor of my K-5 IIs run about 7-8 MB. Those from the 24mp sensor of my KP are generally around 11-13 MB, depending on the photo content.
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