[pschlute]

Mike,
By shooting jpeg, am I only getting about 20 mp images, instead of 39?
Terry

Just to avoid confusion:

When shooting jpeg you have the option to choose the MP (mega Pixels) of the jpeg. If you leave the default setting at Large (L) you will get 36 MP images. See page 43 of the manual for the other settings (M;S;XS)

A raw image is always 36 MP

The actual file size MB (mega bytes) is different, and relates to the physical size of the file produced and how much space it takes up on your card/computer. jpeg files will always be smaller than raw files even if they contain the same number of MP.

[TerryL]

Just what I needed to know. Thank you, Peter.
Terry

[TerryL]

Just to avoid confusion:

When shooting jpeg you have the option to choose the MP (mega Pixels) of the jpeg. If you leave the default setting at Large (L) you will get 36 MP images. See page 43 of the manual for the other settings (M;S;XS)

A raw image is always 36 MP

The actual file size MB (mega bytes) is different, and relates to the physical size of the file produced and how much space it takes up on your card/computer. jpeg files will always be smaller than raw files even if they contain the same number of MP.

Peter,
Are the advantages of shooting Raw that it gives you a larger file with more information, and better images?
Terry

---------- Post added 03-01-18 at 11:12 AM ----------

Next to the OK button, press the right button on the 4-Way Controller

.:. That calls up the jpeg processing settings. Arrow to Natural, and Bright, press Info (next to Menu), rear E-Dial scroll to Fine Sharpness. Use the 4-Way Controller to set the Fine Sharpeness to +1.

Where can this be found in be found in the manual? I'm trying to find the jpeg processing settings screen.
Terry

[monochrome]

Peter,
Are the advantages of shooting Raw that it gives you a larger file with more information, and better images?
Terry

---------- Post added 03-01-18 at 11:12 AM ----------


Where can this be found in be found in the manual? I'm trying to find the jpeg processing settings screen.
Terry

Terry: A RAW file is the actual data output by the sensor converted into a processable data string. Your camera - or external software such as Photoshop or Lightroom (or dozens of others)- ‘develops’ the RAW into a viewable / printable jpeg. A RAW is analogous to a film negative (for print films, not positives for transparencies) that has been developed from the raw film. Making an enlargement and printing it on photo paper (using techniques and skill to alter the final print) is equivalent to creating a jpeg.

We’re suggesting for now you let the camera create your jpegs.

The section on using the 4-Way Controller is your starting point. The reference to the setting screen for the processing defaults is where you will see the settings. The manual is very spare. It isn’t a How-To Guide*.

- Paul

At a point someone will reply RTFM. Take that in good spirit.

[TerryL]

Terry: A RAW file is the actual data output by the sensor converted into a processable data string. Your camera - or external software such as Photoshop or Lightroom (or dozens of others)- ‘develops’ the RAW into a viewable / printable jpeg. A RAW is analogous to a film negative (for print films, not positives for transparencies) that has been developed from the raw film. Making an enlargement and printing it on photo paper (using techniques and skill to alter the final print) is equivalent to creating a jpeg.

We’re suggesting for now you let the camera create your jpegs.

The section on using the 4-Way Controller is your starting point. The reference to the setting screen for the processing defaults is where you will see the settings. The manual is very spare. It isn’t a How-To Guide*.

- Paul

At a point someone will reply RTFM. Take that in good spirit.

Hi Paul,
I shot my first raw file, today. I processed it in Lightroom. It was not difficult at all. Pretty much like what I already do to the jpegs. There are a lot of settings and adjustments in Lightroom that I'll need to learn, but I know the basics. So, I'm just going to leave my camera set on Raw. I really appreciate all of your help.
Sincerely,
Terry

[mikesbike]

Terry, your 4-way control buttons are for multi-task uses. They are the 4 buttons surrounding the middle "ok" button- Up, Down, Left, and Right buttons. The one you push first to open the menu you need to get to the screen, is the "Right" button, just off to the right side of the "ok" button. Then proceed as monochrome indicates in the previous page. But please don't get sidetracked with all the other issues to wonder about. Get one thing done at a time.

Turn on the camera and push the Right button!
We'll go from there. I am using Adam's picture of the screen.

Once you push it, you might find you are already set on "Bright". If not, you can use the right or left button to move to "Bright". If already on "Bright" leave it there.

Once on "Bright", push the "info" button to open its adjustments. Use your 4-way buttons to move to "S" for sharpening- probably the Right button again.

Then use your thumb-dial to put in an "F" for Fine Sharpening.

Then use the Up button- above "ok", one click to increase overall sharpening by one notch- now at +2. Now you are done so turn off the camera, which will exit the screens.

Let's get this done before anything else! This way you will have the camera JPEGs optimized, and you can compare its shots to what you are able to do with RAW images.

[pschlute]

Are the advantages of shooting Raw that it gives you a larger file with more information, and better images?

monochrome has already answered this but i will add one thing. Getting better images depends on your skill with a raw converter. If you choose inappropriate settings you can end up with an image that is worse than the camera produced jpeg. Raw does not by itself produce better images

[TerryL]

Terry, your 4-way control buttons are for multi-task uses. They are the 4 buttons surrounding the middle "ok" button- Up, Down, Left, and Right buttons. The one you push first to open the menu you need to get to the screen, is the "Right" button, just off to the right side of the "ok" button. Then proceed as monochrome indicates in the previous page. But please don't get sidetracked with all the other issues to wonder about. Get one thing done at a time.

Turn on the camera and push the Right button!
We'll go from there. I am using Adam's picture of the screen.

Once you push it, you might find you are already set on "Bright". If not, you can use the right or left button to move to "Bright". If already on "Bright" leave it there.

Once on "Bright", push the "info" button to open its adjustments. Use your 4-way buttons to move to "S" for sharpening- probably the Right button again.

Then use your thumb-dial to put in an "F" for Fine Sharpening.

Then use the Up button- above "ok", one click to increase overall sharpening by one notch- now at +2. Now you are done so turn off the camera, which will exit the screens.

Let's get this done before anything else! This way you will have the camera JPEGs optimized, and you can compare its shots to what you are able to do with RAW images.

Mike and Peter,
That is extremely informative. Thank you so much. I'm printing this to read over a few times.
Regards,
Terry

[mikesbike]

Terry, you might have to put your camera back to JPEG shooting (instead of RAW) before going to the screens and adjusting those settings- but I'm not sure about that.

If you don't know where your camera is set now, just shoot any picture to see if it produces it as RAW or JPEG. If JPEG, no problem for sure. Just go ahead with the screen and the adjustments.

[TerryL]

Terry: A RAW file is the actual data output by the sensor converted into a processable data string. Your camera - or external software such as Photoshop or Lightroom (or dozens of others)- ‘develops’ the RAW into a viewable / printable jpeg. A RAW is analogous to a film negative (for print films, not positives for transparencies) that has been developed from the raw film. Making an enlargement and printing it on photo paper (using techniques and skill to alter the final print) is equivalent to creating a jpeg.

We’re suggesting for now you let the camera create your jpegs.

The section on using the 4-Way Controller is your starting point. The reference to the setting screen for the processing defaults is where you will see the settings. The manual is very spare. It isn’t a How-To Guide*.

- Paul

At a point someone will reply RTFM. Take that in good spirit.

Paul,
I understand your instructions, completely. I believe the problem is my starting point. For instance, when I hit the right button on the 4 way control button, it just moves my spot focus location to the right. So, where should my camera be when I start the process. Also, how should I have my camera set up before starting?
Terry

[monochrome]

I’m at work, so from memory, directly above the 4-Way Controller is a small button that changes the Contoller Mode from focus point adjustment to control settings function. It looks like this [•][•]. Press that button. It beeps twice and the focus point indicator on the LCD changes. The 4-Way buttons (NESW) will now call up the function screens printed on them.

[TerryL]

I hesitated to submit this reply. I'm not trying to start a debate on camera settings. I just wanted to offer another point of view for discussion.


Just to be the contrarian here...

The FA Limiteds are some of the finest lenses I have used. They are sharp, especially when proper exposure settings are used with them. I have no experience with Irix lenses. Terry, what's your experience with editing photos?

I ask because I don't want my camera applying sharpening or contrast, etc. If I need to add contrast I'll do it myself while editing the photos. The first thing I do when getting a new digital camera is set it to "bright" and take all the other adjustment settings to "zero" so no additional saturation, contrast, or especially sharpening is added to my photos. With the FA Limited Lenses (or other nice lenses), I don't need extra saturation. A blurry photo is a blurry photo. Sharpening a photo doesn't fix a blurry image. Retaking the image fixes it. Sharpening a photo will quickly degrade image quality by replacing pixels with black and white pixels to add micro contrast.

This is reinforcement for the importance of getting exposure settings correct.

K10D and FA* 80-200
ISO 100
f/2.8
1/500
123mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop


K-1 and FA 43
ISO 100
f/3.2
1/60
43mm
White Balance {0xA403} = auto (0)
Scene Capture Type {0xA406} = standard (0)
Contrast {0xA408} = normal (0)
Saturation {0xA409} = normal (0)
Sharpness {0xA40A} = normal (0)
Compression {0x0103} = JPEG compression (6)


100% crop

I shot with my 43, yesterday. Very sharp, and colors that just pop. Love it.
Terry

[TerryL]

I’m at work, so from memory, directly above the 4-Way Controller is a small button that changes the Contoller Mode from focus point adjustment to control settings function. It looks like this [•][•]. Press that button. It beeps twice and the focus point indicator on the LCD changes. The 4-Way buttons (NESW) will now call up the function screens printed on them.

Ok, I finally did it. Followed your instructions, and Increased everything by 1. They were set at 1 by default, so I increased it to two, both natural and bright. So fine sharpness is at 2. Sound right?
Terry

[monochrome]

Ok, I finally did it. Followed your instructions, and Increased everything by 1. They were set at 1 by default, so I increased it to two, both natural and bright. So fine sharpness is at 2. Sound right?
Terry

Perfect!

[TerryL]

Perfect!

I'm extremely happy, after all this time and struggling. Now, to shoot jpeg or raw will be my next decision. Have a great day.
Terry