[Kombivan]

Really pleased you got your problems sorted!

Me too.

---------- Post added 03-06-18 at 11:27 PM ----------

It has been said before that the Electronic Level is purely a "spirit level" visible in the viewfinder and in live view.

Yes but it needs power to run and somehow I think that power effected the exposure when it wasn't working correctly.

I have a vw transporter and the oil alarm was going off at 2,500 rpm took a couple of months to find a short in a fuel injector was giving it an earth to activate the alarm, replaced injector and alarm stopped buzzing at 2,500rpm. I think somthing similar is happening with the camera may or may not be a fault.

---------- Post added 03-06-18 at 11:34 PM ----------

Might be a qwirk of the camera

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Last edited by Kombivan; 03-06-2018 at 05:35 AM.

[Kombivan]

It's working good now just have to get used to it.

[Kombivan]

7/3/18

---------- Post added 03-07-18 at 08:01 AM ----------

Thank You Mark for your help I'd still be messing with it now without your input.

---------- Post added 03-07-18 at 08:03 AM ----------

Their the way I like them no editing I am so happy now.

[Kombivan]

After taking these photo's I was after some bird shots so just tried the 2x converter and it worked ok but didn't Focus I then put on my 1.4 converter and photo's immediately became over exposed every shot with it on and I removed it and had to reset my camera twice to get it working again I them fitted my 420-800mm lens and got some ok photos bear in mind its a cheap no name brand lens from china. The exposures didn't play up too much with the long lens. Was more the settings I was using not being used to using the lens and camera combo.

[Kombivan]

Asking the question is there a particular mode to use the converters in like manual or are they suppose to work in all modes. I know the manual converters will work like a long manual lens but the AF converters are the ones this question is target at.

---------- Post added 03-08-18 at 03:50 AM ----------

I think I might try tricking my camera by using the converters on the 70-300 lens I got for 35.00 as this way it will have a different lens ID etc so switching between lens might not be an issue then then if it works I could find another 300mm lens for the other converter that is of course if it works.

---------- Post added 03-08-18 at 03:51 AM ----------

[Topsy]

Out of interest, what ISO mode is your camera set to? Auto or manual? Also what aperture settings? Auto or manual?

[Kombivan]

I change my settings frequently I don't use manual as there is no need as your using the same light meter and if you want a correct exposure you have to rely on that it boils down to weather you want speedy shot or a slow shot. Those you can achieve with the semi auto settings or full auto. I seem to be using from 80 iso to 32000 iso mostly but you need the noise filter set to high or it doesn't look right with the high Iso. I don't know about the other files that are editable yet. So i'm only using jpeg at present.

I took a couple of shots last night with my 28-200sigma lens and I was impressed with the quality and sharpness over the 28-300 but it still doesn't get me close enough to my targets.

[Topsy]

I was wondering if you were not setting the iso but simply limiting the range in which auto iso can act and thus limiting it to a range that could not possibly have given a correct exposure together with your shutter and aperture settings.

[Kombivan]

I was wondering if you were not setting the iso but simply limiting the range in which auto iso can act and thus limiting it to a range that could not possibly have given a correct exposure together with your shutter and aperture settings.

No thats not the case. I am however now using TAV mode setting the iso and also setting the aperture ring as well gives me better control without the flash but with the flash I need the aperture ring set to auto and I am really liking flash free photography at present

[MrB1]

You write that you are setting the ISO and also setting the aperture, so these shots were captured in Av Mode (as reported in the EXIF data), not in TAv Mode. They show the softness of motion blur due to having too slow a shutter speed. Solidly supporting the camera on a tripod, or by e.g. standing it on a wall, would improve image sharpness. Also the ISO could then be lowered (and the shutter speed allowed to go even slower) to enhance the image quality by reducing the effects of noise and/or noise reduction.

[Kombivan]

No Tav mode but I guess mixing it between av and tav while remaining in TAV

I was traveling without a tripod. Guess I could have just doubled the iso and that would have corrected that error. Considering this is the first time I have used this camera after dark and second time I have taken this camera out I'm getting there and this camera is the one with the broken flash that I will be returning.

Also the Bluryness is not from camera shake but the 28-200 sigma lens wasn't focusing properly I have adjusted it ti +2 but not yet tested it the sigma lens seems to be a bit iffy with focus.

Plus the 28-200 seems to also be a bit short on the focusing for long distance.

This is why I haven't used this lens for 15 years I just wanted to try it on a different camera.

---------- Post added 03-12-18 at 01:25 PM ----------

Also I just purchased another K-5 see if this one works?

[Kombivan]

This sigma 28-200 worked perfectly with film camera but doesn't focus with digital cameras any got any idea why it doesn't focus with digital?

[MrB1]

No Tav mode but I guess mixing it between av and tav while remaining in TAV

? ? ?

[Kombivan]

Exactly what I wrote. also with that blur in low light and open aperture depth of field isn't going to be friendly as well. The exif may have assumed av mode but the switch was in Tav. and I was controling both iso and aperture. Only for certain shots where TAV was underexposing the scene.

---------- Post added 03-12-18 at 09:16 PM ----------

So the Exif is reporting what the camera did not what I did that simple.

[victormeldrew]

I think you need to go back to basics and read the manual or watch some tutorials and learn the basics of using a DSLR. Randomly stabbing buttons and twirling dials with no idea of what any of it means is the root cause of all of these problems, not any technical fault.