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03-09-2018, 04:18 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by csa Quote
I'm not clear as to where the failure occurred. Can you post more photos, showing where it was attached to the camera, etc.? I also use OpTech, and just recently added this additional safety for the clips; in case they would break. But it looks like yours broke somewhere else. If yours broke where the strap attaches to the camera itself, then my safety measure would have saved your camera. I'm really sorry that happened to you, and hope the damage isn't too severe!
csa: Please use the Lens Loop Connecters for big lenses! I think they're much safer than placing all the weight on a single body lug. See my other post in this thread.

https://optechusa.com/lens-loops.html


Last edited by pete-tarmigan; 03-09-2018 at 06:23 PM.
03-09-2018, 04:19 PM   #17
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My DA*300 lens hood broke a long time ago. I just patched it up with glue and duct tape. Works fine now. Should have had a built-in hood for this lens as they did for the earlier M*300.
03-09-2018, 04:22 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by pete-tarmigan Quote
Sorry to hear about the accident.

If I'm interpreting the last photo correctly, it looks like the single Uni-Loop Connector wore through where it looped through the strap lug on the body. The total weight of the lens, body and UltraPlate, combined with wear from movement of the narrow surface of the body's strap lug against the loop while walking, created a lot of friction on a very narrow section of the Uni-Loop.

I couldn't trust that much weight resting on a single Uni-Loop being abraded against the narrow edge of metal of the strap lug. For that reason, I chose the OP/TECH Lens Loop Connector on the Utility Sling Strap with my FA* 400mm f/5.6, which is barely bigger than the DA* 300mm. It distributes the weight across a longer, thicker strap than the Uni-Loop, which loops through a very narrow lug. The body lug is virtually a knife by comparison with the surface that the Lens Loop rubs against: the lower front edge of the body (see the photos on the OP/TECH website). The Lens Loops come in sets of two, so you can loop both of them over the telephoto and attach both of them to the Utility Sling Strap to distribute the weight of the lens/body even further between two Lens Loops. The Lens Loop also distributes the weight of the lens-body combo over a much greater area than those systems that attach solely to the tripod socket (e.g., BlackRapid). The weight of telephoto lenses slung by the body's tripod socket has torn the bottom plate off of plastic bodied DSLRs.

Lens Loops - System Connector | OP/TECH USA

The Lens Loop Connector depends on the centre of gravity being toward the front end of the lens, so the lens hangs down with the body at the top end. For that reason, it is only suitable for long lenses, e.g., maybe the DA*200mm or longer, or maybe the monstrous f/2.8 DFA 15-30mm and DFA 24-70mm.
thank you

your point could very well be correct

however, I have had the D FA 150-450 zoom and the D FA * 70-200mm f2.8 and the K 3 on the system without problem

so the DA * 300 is lighter

and the system has never been exposed to water or rain or snow or bad weather of any sort

but it could have been a time thing

I am working with OP/TECH USA customer service and they thought it was cut, working off the same photos as I have attached to this thread but cannot figure out how it would have been cut since I installed it properly. they assured me that there should have been no failure due to weight or proper use of the uni loop system

how they test, I don't know


I will make sure they know of your comment next week

Last edited by aslyfox; 03-09-2018 at 04:31 PM.
03-09-2018, 04:30 PM   #19
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I'm so sorry this happened to you, Allen. Thankfully, it looks like the camera and lens are OK... you might have to get a new hood, but that's minor in the grand scheme of things

I use the OP/TECH Pro strap with the standard flat profile 3/8" webbing connectors on my Pentax gear, and the Super Pro connectors on my Hasselblad HV. I've yet to notice any wear to the webbing, but I'll be checking more often as a result of your post, so thanks for the reminder.

I hope everything's OK with your kit...

03-09-2018, 04:31 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by pete-tarmigan Quote
Please use the Lens Loop Connecters for big lenses! I think they're much safer than placing all the weight on a single body lug. See my other post in this thread.

Lens Loops - System Connector | OP/TECH USA
thank you for the advice and the benefit of your experience

do you know if connection system would interfere in any way with any of the functions of those bigger lenses such as

the DA * 300

the D FA 150- 450

the D FA * 70-200mm F2.8

______________________________________

I am pleasantly surprised at the quick response to this thread and the support being offered

I expected the support but the quick response is something else

thank you

I will keep you posted and try to keep up with the responses

again, part of the reason for this thread is to alert members as to a potential problem and the need not only to develop back up security system

but to use such systems at all times

If I had, there would have been no problem

except I might have had to change underwear
03-09-2018, 04:32 PM   #21
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Bummer man!

Does the lens still work?
As for the hood, by all means try to gently force it up into its proper position, but cutting it off and replacing is a viable option if the lens is OK.
Try harder with the filter

As for the failure - the triangular split ring can have sharp edges at either end of the wire. I suspect repeated abrasion over such a surface caused the excessive wear and ultimate failure of your sling. I use the similar Peak Design system, and have removed the split rings and thread the quick release straight through the stubby rings on the body. It is a fiddle, but is probably less likely to cause abrasion on such a smooth surface.

I do back my sling up - especially the Black Rapid, which only has a single attachment at the tripod thread.

Lastly, I rarely have my hand off the camera or lens barrel when I'm using the sling. If the camera is going unused for long it goes back in the bag.

That said, nothing is totally fool proof. Fools (myself included) can be remarkably ingenious

This is how I minimise the risk:
Attached Images
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-1  Photo 

Last edited by Sandy Hancock; 03-09-2018 at 04:42 PM.
03-09-2018, 04:37 PM   #22
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Yes, I now see what failed! I'm going to check mine right now!!! My leather "security" loops would save a camera from falling, if the failure is where this one was.

Again, so darn sorry, especially since you just got that beautiful lens.


Last edited by csa; 03-09-2018 at 05:40 PM.
03-09-2018, 04:59 PM - 1 Like   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
Bummer man!

Does the lens still work? . . .
SOC no adjustments

Eurasian Eagle Owl and Golden Eagle photographed through the mesh of the enclosure

hand held

as always any error is due to operator error not the equipment
Attached Images
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PENTAX K-3  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-3  Photo 
View Picture EXIF
PENTAX K-3  Photo 
03-09-2018, 05:11 PM - 8 Likes   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Aslyfox Quote
it was properly installed through the triangular metal attachment point on the top right of the K 3
So the one that failed was the one attached to the camera ring, not the one on plate?
QuoteOriginally posted by Aslyfox Quote
since I cannot access the screws do you want to do me a favor and figure out what they do
Ok. I removed all 4 screws, and as far as I can tell they do nothing. And of course no way would they go to the trouble unless they did something, but I'm stumped. Removed them all, tried to see if the bayonet mount would then come off but nothing. Sure LOOKS like they would loosen something but nada. Sorry.

---------- Post added 03-09-18 at 04:14 PM ----------

OK. Here is what you do:
1) remove the tripod foot using the screw on the foot.
2) now the only obstruction is the locking screw on the ring
3) remove the little door on the hood
4) move the hood back and when you get to the locking screw move the door hole over the screw, then gently squeeze the hood out of round. It will slip right off the back end of the lens. Just tested it with mine. Had to put it on first then got it back off. No problems.
After I got it on I thought I'm sure going to look silly getting into the same fix but doing it on purpose
03-09-2018, 05:16 PM - 1 Like   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by jatrax Quote
One option. I would check the hood bayonet connections on the hood and determine if they are broken. If so, the hood is shot anyway so no reason not to cut it off. On the other hand if they are intact then I think other methods should be tried first.. . .
just found the fragments

the size of the one on the right bothers me but I don't think I can tell if the hood would work unless it has been taken off first

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QuoteOriginally posted by jatrax Quote
So the one that failed was the one attached to the camera ring, not the one on plate?
yes it was that one
Attached Images
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PENTAX K-3 II  Photo 

Last edited by aslyfox; 03-10-2018 at 03:23 AM.
03-09-2018, 05:22 PM   #26
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@jatrax Brilliant!

Allen - I’m heartsick to see this and at the same time terrified to sling my camera with a heavy lens now.
03-09-2018, 05:30 PM - 1 Like   #27
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latest news

1 " double bonus points " are hereby award to all who speedily responded with their helpful suggestions and support

2 " quadruple bonus points " to jatrax for his williness

------------ to take the risk of unscrewing part of his lens not knowing if it would self destruct or what

________ risking his lens to try to figure out a possible solution

" Bonus Points " are usable at your favorite local café for the purchase of your favorite beverage when accompanied by an adequate amount of local $

be advised that your local café may deny that it participates due to local regulation and/or law

but they will

BTW

it worked

the lens hood is shaky so I will have to see if it can be replaced and what the cost might be
03-09-2018, 05:31 PM - 2 Likes   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by jatrax Quote
OK. Here is what you do:
1) remove the tripod foot using the screw on the foot.
2) now the only obstruction is the locking screw on the ring
3) remove the little door on the hood
4) move the hood back and when you get to the locking screw move the door hole over the screw, then gently squeeze the hood out of round. It will slip right off the back end of the lens. Just tested it with mine. Had to put it on first then got it back off. No problems.
After I got it on I thought I'm sure going to look silly getting into the same fix but doing it on purpose
@jatrax - this is a shining example of the good that comes from these forums and its members. Kudos to you, sir, for helping in a way that goes above and beyond the norm!
03-09-2018, 05:32 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
@jatrax Brilliant!

Allen - I’m heartsick to see this and at the same time terrified to sling my camera with a heavy lens now.
my mistake was devising back up systems and not using them

If I had my hand in the grip, no problem

if I had the Joby cable system hooked onto the sling no problem

when the loop broke

in other words

Operator Error was the cause of the ultimate problem once the part from Op/tech USA broke

Last edited by aslyfox; 03-09-2018 at 06:03 PM.
03-09-2018, 05:37 PM   #30
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Super glad that worked !!!
QuoteOriginally posted by Aslyfox Quote
the lens hood is shaky so I will have to see if it can be replaced and what the cost might be
I am still puzzled by the four screws on there. It sure looks like they would be used to remove the bayonet brackets for replacement. Unfortunately I doubt you could just buy that part any longer.
However, you do have the piece that broke and I wonder if it could not be glued back on? You would have to use a solvent cement like ABS glue but it might be worth a try.
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